can one make light magenta and ligh cayn by diluting magenta and cyan

Smile

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I wonder why then DL is so much more expensive per ml than DX ink?
Also how would DX work if one does not use light cyan, light magenta (in 4ch printer)?
 

pharmacist

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I wonder why then DL is so much more expensive per ml than DX ink?
Also how would DX work if one does not use light cyan, light magenta (in 4ch printer)?

I think using Epson variable droplet technology enabling up to 1.5 pl small droplets. The semi-professional printers R1800, R1900 and R2000 also do not have light magenta/cyan cartridges and print quality is superb due to the variable droplet technology up to 2 pl. It is actually a much cheaper way to print pictures. Most Canon photo printers don't have light colors, but use 3 different rows of nozzles: 1, 2 and 5 pl to mimic the light colors for cyan, magenta and grey.
 

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Yes I know that pharmacist, but I also know that inksets of say 6 colors are formulated that cyan and magenta reach their full should I say "color width" when both light and normal color cart is used no?
 

martin0reg

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It is probably the printer which is "formulated" to mix the LM-LC with M-C correctly.
I had modified my ink set the other way - 4 color ink set to 6, diluting M to LM and C to LC - and this indicates that the M and C has similar or same density in 4 and 6 color ink sets..I think..

Regarding the price, actually DL and DX are not so much different per ml:
http://www.easymedal.de/downloads/ink-cartridges--fujifilm.pdf
On ebay there are DL carts with sooner expiration date for around 30euro. Seems that I was lucky to find a whole set for 130euro (incl shipping and tax from USA to Germany)
 

mikling

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Dilution does not always work because some printers use the other colors for gamut extension not necessarily for finer toning as the first "photo" printers did and is being assumed here. Similar scenario is red in the Pro9000 and how blue is used in the R1800. Not all printers work the same way. Are the LC and LM used purely for finer toning and better gradations? Or are they being used as gamut extension as well. Hmmm.. Smile alluded to this in his question.
 

martin0reg

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With red and blue I would understand and expect an extension of gamut extension.
But are there any indications or examples that a light color extends the gamut of the base color?
If so this could not be only a light version of the base color IMO ...
Regarding the newer 6 color ink sets for drylabs Epson is calling the additional colors simply LM and LC, while Fuji is calling them "sky blue" and "pink" ... because they have really other tints..??..or to make us believe that it's not the same ink set as epson..?
 

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DL ink 1ml = 0.316Eur
DX ink 1ml = 0.22Eur

That is almost 0.10Eur difference or 1/3rd.

And maybe not everyone needs 0.5Liter for testing :) The problem arises how to linearize and ink limit the smaller inkjet printers that can't use RIP properly, this is maybe not so huge problem for EPSON (There is Gutenprint and Linux drives feature more adjustments anyway), but sure is for Canon. I might add PrintFAB is not going to work unless you order profiles from them, but even then I don't think so as there is no way adjust the curves and software assumes OEM ink is used.
 

mikling

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With red and blue I would understand and expect an extension of gamut extension.
But are there any indications or examples that a light color extends the gamut of the base color?
If so this could not be only a light version of the base color IMO ...
Regarding the newer 6 color ink sets for drylabs Epson is calling the additional colors simply LM and LC, while Fuji is calling them "sky blue" and "pink" ... because they have really other tints..??..or to make us believe that it's not the same ink set as epson..?

I meant the other way. The Light Cyan might not just be a diluted Cyan but have a different tone though different in density. The name of a color that a mfr calls a color means essentially nothing...it is just a name. Only testing will reveal what is going on.
 

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The outcome is still the same one need to be able to adjust "max ink" and "linearization" before building a high quality profile.
 

martin0reg

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Back to the fuji DL ink ... I have recently compared the color of the ink "by itself", how it prints out of the epson driver of my R285 using the default epson paper settins. In other words: can you print without profiling?

I had some older prints made with a decent china ink and some newer with coralgraph and fuji DL all on the same paper (TPI cast coated glossy 230g)
It is more an impression than a real comparison, but
- the nameless china ink seems to be the most compatible (would like to find this ink again on ebay but I don't..)
- the fuji DL is very compatible, though it is very slightly greenish in b&w or grey areas.
I think (!) this can be due to the surprisingly neutral black color of fuji (seen diluted in a glass) - all the other black dye inks I have see in a glass are less or more violet.. only pigment blacks are not..
(My attempt for explanation would be, that this violet tint is associated to the ink mix of home printers, while fuji drylabs are a different league..)
- coralgraph ink prints ot very blueish, not useable without profile IMO

These scans are NOT reproducing accurate colors, only to compare two prints scanned together side by side (both scans with the same setting and WB):
Scan000832_ji_kl_ji.jpg Scan000833_ji_kl_ji.jpg

Here is fuji DL and 3rd party dye using "black ink only" mode (post #58 and #60)
http://www.printerknowledge.com/threads/which-pigment-ink-for-epson-1500w.9323/page-6
 
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