can one make light magenta and ligh cayn by diluting magenta and cyan

[The Hat]

Without changing any of your ink mix, try using the Manual colour Adjustment, this may help to take the yellow shade out of your glossy print, and have a go with Brightness/Intensity/Contrast to alter the greyness in the matte prints.
Click to enlarge.

 

[martin0reg]

I'm pretty sure that you can't use the color adjustement without color in the carts.
But I will try...with color files you might adjust contrast by doing so..

(edit) ..because printing color images with this set is like converting color to b&w by hardware = inks..
Example: original file - canon mp810 color - r285 dl-k6 b&w print (direct from color file)


More important, this the yellowish shine (only on some certain glossy papers) results probably from the GLO - and there is much of it in all carts except the black, especially large amounts in four (!) carts: Y LM LC and M...
These are the ratios:
C: 30% black ink + 70% gloss optimizer
M: 18% black ink + 82% gloss optimizer
LC: 9% black ink + 91% gloss optimizer
LM: 6% black ink + 94% gloss optimizer
Y: 2% black ink + 98% gloss optimizer

(edit2) It's really a yellow "shine", only visible from certain angles, a reflection more than a color shift.

 

[The Hat]

Your printer doesn’t know you are only using black instead of colour, so try it you just might be surprised..

 

[martin0reg]

As I mentioned elsewhere, I finally found a thinner for my custom made ink sets, which seems to match the properties of the original ink very well.
https://www.inksupply.com/product-details/pn/PR-CLEARBASE-PT.html?printerID=0
(at "Roark's Lab" you see that different ink sets need different thinner, e.g. carbon needs more glycerol for keeping the pigments in supension, ...)

No more bronzing on glossy paper, which certainly was a result of original ink mixed with high amount of GLO for diluting.
Just tried cheap cast coated inkjet paper, high glossy, matte fine art ... the prints are fine, on matte as on glossy, the surface of the original paper comes out very nice.
Even the banding on a few test prints, which I thought was due to the old R285, is now gone.

So the "DL-K6" (K + 5 shades of grey from fuji DL ink) for me is the "dye way" to B&W... I will do some UV testing too.
One thing to keep in mind is color tint: the very neutral black of fuji DL (similar to claria) makes a greenish tint on certain papers. So you could add say 10% M to the original K before diluting.. but different papers would need different amount of M, on some the prints are perfect without any additional tint ...

 

[martin0reg]

Because the output of the B&W ink set was generally a bit too bright, I have modified the ratio for diluting the Y position. 2% seems to be too light.

So my new ratio for dilute "DL-K6" is as follows:
C: 30% black ink
M: 20% black ink
LC: 9% black ink
LM: 6% black ink
Y: 9% black ink (or at least 6%)

 

[palombian]

Did someone tried with Canon dye inks to make grey from black ?

The prints with Prodinks 525/526 inks from my MG8250 6 ink printer fade and turn brown within days, while the same from the IX6550 with 5 inks stay for months in the sun without visible change.
It can only be the GY ink IMO.

 

[martin0reg]

The problem with canon is the ink base, bubble jet ink must have certain chemical properties for high temperature nozzle firing.
If the prodink grey is fading faster than black, I guess this is probably the same what will happen if you dilute the black yourself. Prints with my "DL-K6" dilution, from the very stable drylab black ink, also turns brownish... faster than B&W prints from the DL color ink set...

 

[martin0reg]

...
So my new ratio for dilute "DL-K6" is as follows:
...

Just a note about the dilutions of "DL-K6":
Modifying the dilution ratio changes the grey value - and this is like to apply a tonal curve which imitates a certain B&W film. As an example I have applied 3 of the filters from "truegrain" on purging patterns / color bars. Looking at these "translations" from color to grey shows how arbitrary the grey value can be..
(Kodak T-MAX, Tri-X, Agfa APX, and last is simply desaturation)


BTW ... you can't do this with profiling, or do you?

 

[websnail]

*mutters incantations and sprinkles small amounts of OEM ink around to resurrect the long moribund thread to share its secrets in this earthly realm of 2022*



Okay, so I've been looking at the whole Epson OEM inks 106 and 114's with a view to creating a Light Magenta and Light Cyan recipe that "might" allow end-users to grant themselves a decent longevity 6 colour ink set in their old school CIS systems or refillable cartridges and this topic cropped up so I thought I would throw open the doors, dust things off a little and ask what might be the best starting point for using those two ink sets and some GLOP and WJ807 Base fluid with the OEM Magenta and Cyan inks from the 106/114 sets.

From re-reading though the thread it seems we're looking at 33.3% ink, 66.6% diluting agent ratio as a starting point but if anyone has any suggestions or data that might suggest something else I'd welcome the input.


For the avoidance of any doubt, I'm looking at this from a POV of a group-think experiment that end-users can try at home... Not something I'd remotely wish to tie up as a commercial close-hold (It's mine, my precioussssusss'is) type silliness.

 

[ClarenceL]

*mutters incantations and sprinkles small amounts of OEM ink around to resurrect the long moribund thread to share its secrets in this earthly realm of 2022*



Okay, so I've been looking at the whole Epson OEM inks 106 and 114's with a view to creating a Light Magenta and Light Cyan recipe that "might" allow end-users to grant themselves a decent longevity 6 colour ink set in their old school CIS systems or refillable cartridges and this topic cropped up so I thought I would throw open the doors, dust things off a little and ask what might be the best starting point for using those two ink sets and some GLOP and WJ807 Base fluid with the OEM Magenta and Cyan inks from the 106/114 sets.

From re-reading though the thread it seems we're looking at 33.3% ink, 66.6% diluting agent ratio as a starting point but if anyone has any suggestions or data that might suggest something else I'd welcome the input.


For the avoidance of any doubt, I'm looking at this from a POV of a group-think experiment that end-users can try at home... Not something I'd remotely wish to tie up as a commercial close-hold (It's mine, my precioussssusss'is) type silliness.

Since 114 & 106 might exactly the same as T378 cartridge
Maybe we can reference the SDS from T378 Cyan & Light Cyan ?
https://neon.epson-europe.com/files/assets/source/c/7/r/0/c13t378240_en_00.pdf
https://neon.epson-europe.com/files/assets/source/c/7/r/0/c13t378540_en_00.pdf

Left Cyan, right Light Cyan.
But, seems like I don't know how it works.