Resetter disasters

[Tudor]

Anyway, all three batteries were 1.36 to 1.38 volts, so low voltage wasn't the problem.

Shouldn't they be 1.5V? I assume they are not rechargeable...

 

[Smile]

Shouldn't they be 1.5V? I assume they are not rechargeable...

Good point, they should be 1.55V
http://www.csbatteries.com/LR621-battery-364.html

You can find other battery specs there also.

Note. Again I must say you need to measure battery voltage under load.

 

[CakeHole]

Maybe they were rogue batteries like the rogue resetters?

 

[Paul Verizzo]

You could had set the voltmeter to 'volts' placed the prongs from the voltmeter onto the prongs of the resetter and measured the voltage though i accept to an electronics expert such as yourself that entirely obvious course of action is not a obvious at all.

If you have no intention to ever use one again there is nothing anyone can do to assist you further. (as predicted the too much effort answer)

Instructions for mine are very clear and accurate, including light flashing info, it is a rock solid product which just works. As to yours failing i accept you had issues and nobody else here has.

I imagine some forum members would be very interested in the internals of that resetter, most battery ones i know of come with a single CR2032 battery. (Ive seen one that used AA or AAA batteries but never 3x small cell types) If you could post some pictures some forum members will find them very interesting.

I think "hole" pretty much sums it up.

 

[Smile]

Maybe they were rogue batteries like the rogue resetters?

I think one needs to check how dead the batteries are in items bought from storage unknown for how long. I also have a habit to clean PCB's of cheap items from china, as they do not do it properly, neither do they use solder flux that does not require washing. This makes items last way longer and is cheap to do. This is just a suggestion.

 

[CakeHole]

I think "hole" pretty much sums it up.

Yep the screws and battery (sorry "batteries") in your resetter will be located in those.

 

[websnail]

In case anyone is wanting to get into a REdSETTER battery model, the base is not welded on but is actually a well moulded plate that can be prised off by running a stanley-knife or other strong craft knife blade round the edge and gently leavered down and off.

The electronics inside are similar not glued in and battery replacement (R2302 type) can be achieved quickly or testing done with voltmeters, etc... if required.

The Peach 525/526 resetter we had in the early days had a similar situation for access.

In terms of reliability and suitability, we do get returns but to give some idea of the reliability here this is a breakdown of the issues:

• Cable failure on USB models (there's been a few poor cables but they're easily replaced)
• Battery drained on receipt
• Customer ordered the wrong model
  (resetting CLI-526's with a CLI-8 model doesn't work, even if the CLI-8 unit is cheaper, who'd have thunk it?)
• Actual unit failure
  - only 1 REdSETTER in more than 5 years of sales
  - 15% of the peach 525/526 models failed though! - we stopped selling those when REdSETTER units became available

As to the "OEM only" compatibility notice. The reason I state this for OctoInkjet units is for a number of reasons:

1. The OEM chips are programmed in a consistent way that requires no deviation and can easily be "reset"
2. Compatible chips often require differentiated programming to ensure they are recognised as compatible and not accused of patent infringement or of being intended for the counterfeit market. As a result they may not match the required pattern for a resetter to reset.
3. Variation in chip manufacture in terms of quality, supplier, factory, etc... all means that cartridges from supplier A may use chips from a variety of different chip manufacturers so providing a notice to say that Resetter brand X will work with cartridges of brand Z may only be true for a limited time and then not be, because the chips are no longer the same.

End-users don't want, nor need to understand the technicalities of all of this so basically it's just easier to say "OEM only" and keep it simple. Folks with more experience, a clearer understanding of the variables and a dose of masochism will give them a go and if they don't work with their compatibles, they can always return or accept the hit.

Given that we've been working with these things for far too long now we know they work really well so @Paul Verizzo it sounds like you've had a mixture of bad luck, steep learning curve and your fingers burned enough to say "No sirreee Bob" and go back to what works for you. No shame in that whatsoever but hopefully the above has added to the constructive portion of this thread.

 

[Paul Verizzo]

@websnail: Thanks for the enlightenment, and yes, that's the kind of information one needs to understand one's problems. And seller claims. Yes, probably a combination of stacking "errors."

The situation reminds me of one of my "favorite" complaints in marketing, the failure to identify what makes the product "superior" or whatever trait they are claiming. Look at post-printing spray finish options. I've seen water based ones that don't warn against using with dye inks! I've seen things like "Brushable shellac," but it's obviously an oil based clear finish, just look at the instruction for clean up. Mineral spirits, not alcohol.

It's no wonder so many consumers use shellac, varnish, and lacquer interchangeably, even in the wood finishing circles.

 

[Harvey]

CakeHole, my CLI-8 resetter I got back in 2008 runs on 3 AG13/LR44 batteries, it is more reliable than a single battery model I have for CLI-221.

 

[CakeHole]

CakeHole, my CLI-8 resetter I got back in 2008 runs on 3 AG13/LR44 batteries, it is more reliable than a single battery model I have for CLI-221.

Ive never seen one, interesting though you find it more reliable