Resetter disasters

[Paul Verizzo]

Apparently some people can use resetters successfully and some people simply can not!

Thank you! And apparently I'm not one of them.

 

[Paul Verizzo]

From this post,
http://www.printerknowledge.com/threads/resetter-disasters.9555/#post-77503
some people in addition to not being able to or wanting to use a resetter can not use a volt meter either and put the probes on the external metal pins of the resetter to check the voltage

In fact im even shocked some people can not use a screwdriver to leaver open a sealed resetter to get inside it, i guess 4 dabs of glue really does defeat some people while others that even took the time to post here ages ago had some better luck...
http://www.printerknowledge.com/threads/rks-chip-resetter-aka-redsetter-review-and-battery-mod.2765/

There are those that read and learn and those that believe they do not need to read or learn, i wonder what this falls under

EDIT: Puts on psychic hat and predicts next reply.... Second link i provided is far too much work for some

PS:
Oh and in case it were not obvious like most people i have not had a single issue with my battery based resetter. I bought mine from the excellent Octoink, rather than some nameless ebay seller though. It has been perfect, reset 3 sets of carts (so 15 carts total) 3 times now, so thats 45 resets, which by all accounts is tiny compared to many users here.

You're pretty insulting. I've been "into" electronics for a half century. I've built my own (vacuum tube!) radios, built power supplies, blah blah. I damned know well how to use a meter. The fact is, the resetters I have are NOT sealed with 4 dabs of glue. They are electronically welded shut, and despite several sturdy knives trying to work my way around, I decided that no doubt I could win, but it just really didn't matter to me. I'm never using them again.

The resetters I have are visually identical to the Octolink one, and the MIS one. OK, yours work fine. Accept that two of mine failed, OK? And, yes, I've read the instructions.....which don't jive with the real world in terms of flashing lights.

 

[martin0reg]

I once even had to heat up CLI-8 cleaning cart in microwave ..

Did it help for cleaning/declogging?

 

[Paul Verizzo]

My older battery powered resetter has reset thousands of CLi-8s. My yellow CLI-42 chip has seen over 1000 resets by unique resetters. I've also seen chips die on the first reset as well.

Resetters can fail and so can chips as well. Chips can be also be damaged during handling.

First thing many need to get into their heads....

Resetters are not INSTANT resets. You need to hold them steady and against the contact pins for a period of time. This can last as low as a fraction of a second or seconds depending on the resetter model and speed of the bus and complexity of what is being done.

First, they must communicate with the chip and confirm the chip is the correct ID.
Second...they then must determine what reset procedures are required for the particular chip.
Then they must write data to the chip. ..critical step.
After that they must confirm the data is written.
Then they light up again to notify something...like it is finished,

Here's how to cause damage to a chip. Remove it immediately after the first blink. It will have likely done step two and onto step three.
This is similar to removing a USB flash drive while a file is being tranferred to it from your PC...what likely ensues is a corrupted USB drive. Sometimes totally corrupted and must be reformatted. Well something similar happens to the chip as the resetter is writing data to it. It can garble the chip up. Sometimes it is not recoverable.

The above is the most frequent scenario....users see the first flash and think it is done..... remove it right away. WRONG.

If the reset is done properly and it still does not work....then if it is a battery powered device, consider replacing the battery. Most batteries for resetters are one to two dollars.

And yes, sometimes resetters do fail and go bad just like any other electronic device.

You are probably onto something there about first blink. Yes, I often did remove the cart at that point. Why not? Nothing further happened, very often. Sometimes I would eventually get a steady light, sometimes not. And I never got the flashing light promised in the instructions.

In fact, my first resetter came with no instructions at all. Amazing, isn't it? I found some somewhere on line. The second setter came with instructions, but as mentioned, don't fit reality.

 

[Paul Verizzo]

So, I'm cleaning up the counter area where I've been in the refill/resetter swamp for the last week, I picked up my #2 resetter to rinse it off , and to my amazement, the bottom is held on with four small screws! No prising required.

I removed the base; the power is by three very small diameter button cells held by retainers obviously not encouraging replacement. But I think it would just take some dexterity. Anyway, all three batteries were 1.36 to 1.38 volts, so low voltage wasn't the problem.

 

[jtoolman]

The Red Resetters that apparently look like they are welded shut have two hidden screws right under the rear label.

 

[CakeHole]

You're pretty insulting. I've been "into" electronics for a half century. I've built my own (vacuum tube!) radios, built power supplies, blah blah. I damned know well how to use a meter.

You could had set the voltmeter to 'volts' placed the prongs from the voltmeter onto the prongs of the resetter and measured the voltage though i accept to an electronics expert such as yourself that entirely obvious course of action is not a obvious at all.

The fact is, the resetters I have are NOT sealed with 4 dabs of glue. They are electronically welded shut, and despite several sturdy knives trying to work my way around, I decided that no doubt I could win, but it just really didn't matter to me. I'm never using them again.

If you have no intention to ever use one again there is nothing anyone can do to assist you further. (as predicted the too much effort answer)

The resetters I have are visually identical to the Octolink one, and the MIS one. OK, yours work fine. Accept that two of mine failed, OK? And, yes, I've read the instructions.....which don't jive with the real world in terms of flashing lights.

Instructions for mine are very clear and accurate, including light flashing info, it is a rock solid product which just works. As to yours failing i accept you had issues and nobody else here has.

So, I'm cleaning up the counter area where I've been in the refill/resetter swamp for the last week, I picked up my #2 resetter to rinse it off , and to my amazement, the bottom is held on with four small screws! No prising required.

I removed the base; the power is by three very small diameter button cells held by retainers obviously not encouraging replacement. But I think it would just take some dexterity. Anyway, all three batteries were 1.36 to 1.38 volts, so low voltage wasn't the problem.

I imagine some forum members would be very interested in the internals of that resetter, most battery ones i know of come with a single CR2032 battery. (Ive seen one that used AA or AAA batteries but never 3x small cell types) If you could post some pictures some forum members will find them very interesting.

 

[fotofreek]

One shouldn't have to find out the hard way which resetters work or don't, have crappy batteries or not. When you can't the resetter from a major ink and graphics house like MIS, who can you? (I'm presuming that my eBay resetters are the same, they look it, and many sellers have them for sale. Whoddathunk?)

Prior to Precision Colors starting business I bought my Canon refill inks from MIS. Although they didn't advertise it by name, I presumed that they sold Image Speicalist inks, just like Precision Colors. I prefer that Precision Color does identify their inks on their labels as Image Specialists and now buy all my ink and supplies from Precision Colors.

Just like third party ink cartridges and no-name inks on such sites as ebay, I feel safer dealing with a reputable dealer such as MIS or Precision Colors. The third party carts and inks look the same as those from reputable dealers, and so do the resetters that are available from many vendors. As Mikling notes, however, electronic items can fail. The good news is that Mikling or Octoink stand behind what they sell. I assume the MIS does also.

I nave no problem with someone who would rather not deal with a resetter and do visual inspections regularly to be sure the carts are not running out of ink. Using one is a small extra step, but I don't see is as difficult or onerous. The good news is that resetters permit us to refill chipped carts the same as unchipped ones and still beat the exhorbitant price of OEM inks. (p.s. I still do a visual inspection when starting a long print run.)

 

[Smile]

Did it help for cleaning/declogging?

Yes it helped as I warmed the tanks for 15sec. They were slightly warm. (I has put into whole set of carts (6 of them))

 

[Smile]

Anyway, all three batteries were 1.36 to 1.38 volts, so low voltage wasn't the problem.

You do know that battery removed and measured means nothing, as no load measuring is not the way to do it right. You need to measure voltage under load to judge if the battery is dead or close to it.