Sealing the refill hole BCI-6 BCI-3

mikling

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The secret is actully something discolosed by another member here, and I cannot remember who, but it is simply to use a heated pointed tip to make a starter hole in the ball. Without this starter hole, it would be a killer to get the self tapping screw to enter the ball properly especially since the top of the ball is curved and the plastic ball is actually relatively hard. You possibly missed that part in the instructions.

The other part is to use an exacto knife. Since the seal is down below, we just need to remove a small circle above the ball, it doesn't have to be perfect, just expose the ball. Removing the botom part of the label makes it look neater and not a "mod job" but just a hole will suffice and perfectly functional. Yes, removing the label is tedious but it looks better...thus requiring more effort and time.

BallInHole.jpg


Three seconds and about two cuts with the exacto kniife will expose the ball. You can see on this sample ink that has gone past the seal on the original cartridge.
 

emerald

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Mikling:

I apologize for mixing your company name with your ink supplier. I will edit posts #173 and #175 to correct my mistake.

The Precision Colors plugs do everything you say. They do an excellent job of sealing the Canon factory fill hole as well as newly drilled 5/32" holes. I've never had one fail. There seems to be some variation between Canon cartridges because the Precision Colors plugs fit tighter in some Canon cartridge fill holes than others. To ensure an easier fit, I run a 5/32" drill bit through the Canon factory fill hole.

It stands to reason that the constriction provided by the bottom part of the fill hole hub is indeed where the seal occurs so minor damage to the upper part of the hole incurred by removing the ball isn't a factor. My assertion that the label removal is a problem still stands. I use two methods: I cut across the label just above the fill hole with an exacto knife, then peel the rest off. Or, I merely cut around the hole. Both ways are messy and time consuming.
 

mikling

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No aplogies required Emerald, I believe I am associated with Image Specialists inks a lot because I might be the first to officially indicate that that is the ink that I sell rather than putting a fancy name to it and hidingwhere the origin of the ink might be and giving it some magical property.

"There seems to be some variation between Canon cartridges because the Precision Colors plugs fit tighter in some Canon cartridge fill holes than others"

yes, when I was on the lookout for plugs that really work, I tried tapered ones etc. I was looking for one that did not require drilling. I had thought I found it and was elated. Alas , as more samples eventually was tried, I came to the exact conclusion you have come to. The molds on the Canon bodies do indeed vary a bit. So I do recommend using a 5/32 " drill to correct for this anomaly of the Canon mold, this makes for a firm fit , that is not too tight and yet does not leak at all. The largest variances in the size of the hole I found was on the bodies on the PGI-5.

Even if you use the Durtish method to refill, having a hole on the tank side to flush the cartridge by just putting it under a stream of water from under a tap is by far the easiest way to go about this. It does not require any additional hardware or adapters etc. For the hardware maniacs, a flushing adapter is still the way to go. Be careful of the pressures when flushing from the outlet hole. Some Canon tops are not heat welded too well and will pop off. I know, been there recently and learned the hard way.
 

emerald

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Stratman: Post #180

No leaking. I failed to clean excess ink from around the fill hole before inserting the plugs.
 

stratman

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mikling said:
The secret is actully something discolosed by another member here, and I cannot remember who, but it is simply to use a heated pointed tip to make a starter hole in the ball. Without this starter hole, it would be a killer to get the self tapping screw to enter the ball properly especially since the top of the ball is curved and the plastic ball is actually relatively hard. You possibly missed that part in the instructions.
Did read that tidbit in your instructions but still tried to remove the ball without melting a hole in the ball first. Shear and utter futility. Count me in the group that sometimes has to rebel and make the mistakes everyone tries to warn you about ahead of time. :/

After the supplied threaded tool fell on the floor a half dozen times I figured I would then follow your directions completely. I heated up the supplied pushpin with a match.

Since my initial post on this I have looked again at the hole I made. It seems that I went completely through the ball and not adjacent to it. The hole seems off center on the ball and is too small for the silicone plug to fit into.

Do you recommend the 5/32" drill bit to size it properly?

The other part is to use an exacto knife. Since the seal is down below, we just need to remove a small circle above the ball, it doesn't have to be perfect, just expose the ball. Removing the botom part of the label makes it look neater and not a "mod job" but just a hole will suffice and perfectly functional. Yes, removing the label is tedious but it looks better...thus requiring more effort and time
The label on my cartridge seemed to bbe welded onto the cartridge. That sucker wasn't coming off, at least not without a great fight. A cornered lion would be easier to subdue than removing that label. In the end, carving out a circle of lable above the ball was easy and looked aesthetic enough for me.

Thanks for the feedback.
 

stratman

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5/32" drill bit perfect result. Ended up pushing ball into cartridge. Precision Colors silicone plug plugged the hole as advertised. Refill ink filled the flushed but not bone dry sponge easily (German Method) - nearly all the ink injected into the spongeless side inititially was sucked up by the sponge in less than a minute. No leaks, drips, spills or mess.

Thanks all.
 

ruffin

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Hi Guys: Need a little clarification on the utilization of the beautiful Precision Colors silicone plugs. I have both Canon MP600 and IP4300 printers with CLI-8 cartridges. When accessing the installed cartridges by lifting printer top, the print head raises up slightly and moves to center of machine. This raising of the print head places the cartridge tops very close to printer top cover. I am concerned that the silicone plugs will drag across printer top plastic extrusions or may otherwise prevent print head from moving to center. Can someone please confirm that there is enough clearance to allow for the additional thickness of the silicone plugs? Cartridge tops look very very close to the machine cover on both printers. Thanks for any info you might have. Best Regards to all
 

refilldude

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ive always used candle wax...its easy to remove after aswell when refilling for 2nd time round
 

refilldude

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i have also seen a jero jig that refills this cartridges through the sponge so theres no need for a hole
 

mrelmo

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there is enough room for the printhead to move side to side, i used to remove the ball but now i just drill a new hole next to the ball where there is a dimple on the cartridge and leave the ball intact
 
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