Pro 10s magenta

[The Hat]

No idea if it works the other way around but maybe it could technically (no clogs or banding) depending on the application.

My theory is, if the Pro 10 print head is supposed to be that tuff, then it can take any Feckin ink, after all the 9500 head was a bit poor for long time stability and it could take just about any brand of ink..
P.S. It will be running mostly on PGl-9 carts..

 

[Artur5]

Apart from new OEM carts, the only source that I know in Europe for PGI-72 chips are the empty OEM carts. sold by Octoink (you can purchase them individually or in sets of all 10 colors).

If you need only chips to get the upcoming Pro10 ready,, I assume that you have already a PGI-72 Redsetter ?.

 

[palombian]

Apart from new OEM carts, the only source that I know in Europe for PGI-72 chips are the empty OEM carts. sold by Octoink (you can purchase them individually or in sets of all 10 colors).

If you need only chips to get the upcoming Pro10 ready,, I assume that you have already a PGI-72 Redsetter ?.

Try via local auction sites to find someone who wants to give you his empty carts.
Not easy, since most find refilling a very strange activity.
I did find someone for the PRO-9500, I must have more than 100 PGI-9 carts.

 

[The Hat]

the empty OEM carts. sold by Octoink (you can purchase them individually

I have already ordered empty carts and redsetter from OctoInkjet, just waiting on their arrival..

I must have more than 100 PGI-9 carts.

Me too, yes it must be about a hundred…

 

[palombian]

...

Me too, yes it must be about a hundred…

I keep them for the clips.

 

[Borut]

Hi!
I found this post after searching for a solution with weird behaviour from Octoink Magenta on nozzle checks on my Canon Pro 10s. I had a very similar experience to yours @palombian. I ran a nozzlecheck after getting banding after about 30 or so A3+ prints. And it was identical to Palombians posted nozzlecheck. After 2 light and 7 deep cleans the nozzleprint was back to normal again. I reckoned i should write it down here since it was such a similar experience.

as for checking the nozzles, I never have any irregularities.. the irregularities only appear when printing large pages, which helps require a longer uninterrupted flow of ink.. but I noticed that when changing the cartridges there are bubbles on the suction tube of the print head

 

[Borut]

Replacing with OEM ink, starting with the magenta you reported issues with last year .
I must say that, except for occasional banding with grey, I had no further problems with the octoink ink.
But, as Martin (@websnail) suggests himself, OEM photo black is better than his.
Also is the red, as even Precision Colors (@mikling) admits. And the CO.
Then already half the colors have been replaced...

I still must see any difference with C,PC,PM and MBK (I seldom need the latter), so some gains remain.

Compared to buying OEM 14ml carts IMO the largest gain is made by avoiding the repetitive flushes (called the domino effect by @The Hat ) when replacing carts one by one. When topping up a set of carts, even the ones where the chip shows empty need maximum 10ml (instead of 14) and some just 2 or 3, so you go a long way with even a 38ml PRO-1 cart.
OEM ink in larger carts costs less per ml, but for other than PRO-1 you need custom profile

maybe someone can tell from the test picture which cartridge is causing the problems?

 

[The Hat]

maybe someone can tell from the test picture which cartridge is causing the problems?

I can’t see anything major wrong with your test Pic, and I’d be happy with that myself, but there is a bit more red in it than I’d like..

 

[palombian]

I can’t see anything major wrong with your test Pic, and I’d be happy with that myself, but there is a bit more red in it than I’d like..

Technically the print is OK (no banding etc), but when comparing with the same test prints I made many times with different papers and inks and custom profiles, the red is clearly too dominant.
See the rocks, the strawberries etc.
@Borut , you should see it yourself by comparing your print or scan (if your scanner is profiled) with the test file on your screen.

The culprit should be the red and/or magenta (OEM red is warmer than most 3th party).

What inks and profiles do you use ?

Printer manufacturers defend against 3th party copies by changing the inks with the excuse of quality enhancements but also to use components the latter don't have access to.
While the old PRO-9500 used the same - and already copied - LUCIA EX ink set as the first generation of wide format printers, the PRO-10 (and PRO-300) have an appropriate set.
Without any doubt the printhead is more picky about ink quality (in particular flow) too.

You can save on ink (almost) without quality concessions by making custom profiles and combining inks.
This will cost you 400-500 for a calibrating device (not everyone has @The Hat 's trained eye, but even he told they used specialised equipment once it became available), IMO an acceptable expense compared to what many amateur photographers spend on photo gear).
As already said (and confirmed by trustworthy ink sellers) for some OEM colours there is no equivalent replacement.
But by replacing some of the inks by OEM (sold by those sellers but also available in carts for wide format printers at about half the PGI-72 price) you can have the best of both worlds.

It depends on your requirements too, for matte prints it is easier (since you don't have to cope with BK adhesion and CO quality).

 

[Borut]

check te dark test line..not color images.. from number 12 down...
it whas printed whit octo profile..and yes they are abit to red..
i haw colormonki so i did make my own profile..
i changed gray card whit OEM
result: