Possible print head clog with IP4500

[l_d_allan]

I agree there needs to be a latest "howto" guide regarding pigment inks for Canon carts.

Note ... my attempt at a HowTo: is for dye based carts. I'm basically ignorant about pigment carts. So far, I've never use my inkjets for text ... I have a LaserJet for that. In the future, I may use the iP4500 for text.

Going down your list I noticed you use Windex. Is that the version with "Ammonia D"? Did it work?

Yes ... "D". I'm not really sure if it worked or not. Sorry. The original print-head on my Pro 9000-2 was having erratic problems with the Magenta head ... fine one day, seemed clogged the next. The nozzle check was flawed, but more of a mottled look than missing rows that would indicate a clogged head.

I described the problem to Canon tech support, and since the printer was still under warranty, they sent a replacement print-head. I used the original print-head to try different things, but I couldn't really tell what worked since the print-head may have had underlying electrical problems.

To recap, all my photo colours, the CLI OEM carts with HobbiColors ink, print the test pattern without any issues. Only my pigment PGBK is causing problems.

Sorry ... I think I lost track of the point of the OP, and tackled a different question. I'd been hoping one of the really experienced Inkjet Masters on the forum would provide something like:
* Try A
* If that doesn't help, try B
* If that doesn't help, try C
etc.
I hadn't found something like that, so decided to draft my speculations as to a reasonable order to tackle a clogged print-head, with the hope that revisions/improvements would be part of replies. It doesn't particularly bother this de-clogging newbie to be mistaken, as I feel I learn the most the fastest when a more experienced person corrects my misconceptions, and/or clarifies where I have a flawed understanding of what is going on.

 

[l_d_allan]

I just have a few suggestions for your excellent summary on nozzle cleaning steps:

Truth be told, the majority of what I wrote was summarizing info I've gotten from posts you've written. My impression is that "you da man" on de-clogging. But any flaws are my responsibility.

1) Start off with a clear warning not to print anything except nozzles checks until all nozzles are unclogged since extensive printing with no ink flowing can overheat and burn out the heating elements.

I don't disagree, but I would hope you would be willing to write-up a better "HowTo" and see if Rob L. would make it a "Sticky". I consider my attempt as just a draft to hopefully bring about further discussion. And also, I would rate myself as having little or no legitimate creditability on de-clogging, as I don't have all that much experience at it.

2) On your second and third bullets you use the phrase "print driver" which should be "print head".

That was intended. I wanted to be specific and unambiguous that this is a regular cleaning and then a deep cleaning from within the print-driver. I only have experience with Win-7 controlling my Pro 9000-2 and ip4500, which don't have any LCD screen, and have essentially no user interface. Other printers, especially all-in-ones may have an LCD and can be stand-alone without being connected to a computer. Also, our nomenclature may be inconsistent.

3) I would suggest that people only do normal print head cleanings unless they are using a specially prepared cleaning cartriges. They should be made aware that just a few deep print head cleanings can use up all the ink in a cartridge.

4) I would suggest that a cleaning cartridge have at least a little ink in it, just so that you can tell if the cleaning is working.

Good points. I was surprised the first time I put some ink into distilled water ... even when greatly diluted, the color of the ink was pretty obvious. Something that isn't clear from the "HowTo" is how time consuming it can be ... declogging can stretch out over days and days. Patience is essential. At some point, your time is more valuable than the cost of just getting a replacement print-head.

It also isn't clear that once you get to swapping in cleaning carts for real ink carts, you may need to intersperse with extra cleaning cycles so the ink can work its way from the nozzle inlet to the actual spray nozzles that put the ink on the paper. I don't have an awareness of how much ink there is in the channels leading from the nozzle inlets to the actual individual nozzles. I think it is possible that the clog could be cleared, but it doesn't seem like it because cleaning solution is being sprayed. Your suggestion about having some ink in the cleaning solution would help with this.

Another point to perhaps mention ... print-heads are delicate, high precision devices. Handle with care!
[Edit] And don't even think about taking the print-head apart, or loosening the screws that attach it to the base (as recommended on a webpage I encountered).

5) For people who are not yet into refilling but need a cleaning cartridge, they can make one easily by taking a cartridge that is almost empty (assuming they don't have a resetter), turning it upside down and dribbling window cleaner into the outlet port.

Agree ... but I think of this as possibly a separate step to be taken somewhat early in the "flow chart" of steps. It might go along with putting a few drops of cleaning solution into the nozzle inlets.

And obviously, the problem with any generic "HowTo" is "it depends" on the specific situation. There are so many variables ... what printer ... what does the nozzle check look like ... other symptoms ... age of printer ... what's changed ... type of ink ... type of cartridge ... German vs top-filling ... intermediate results from declogging steps .... etc. etc. etc.

 

[The Hat]

tsu3000 Or is purging the only way to go?

I certainly recommend cleaning out all of the pigment ink from the cartridge first.
That way you get all the benefits of dye ink immediately without interference from the reminder of the pigment ink
as its heavier it would get into your print head long before the dye ink would and could cause a clog up again..

 

[tsu3000]

tsu3000 Or is purging the only way to go?

I certainly recommend cleaning out all of the pigment ink from the cartridge first.
That way you get all the benefits of dye ink immediately without interference from the reminder of the pigment ink
as its heavier it would get into your print head long before the dye ink would and could cause a clog up again..

Would it be wise to resolve the clogged head before purging/refilling with dye black? The reason I ask is I am finally getting somewhere with the unclogging and the nozzle check is printing something now. See pic. The contrast has been increased to make it clearer.



Maybe I am being impatient since I am an unclogging newbie

 

[l_d_allan]

Did you ever think of changing your pigment ink ?
Or better still, purge the cartridge and fill with dye ink that would help in preventing clogs happen +
make it easier to clear quicker if and when it happens again..

Maybe it's just me, but the idea of putting dye ink in a pigment PGI cartridge seems flawed. YMMV.

Maybe? as a last resort if I had to get some text printed?
Maybe? if the printer was only used for photos and no text, and I wanted to diminish the chance of black nozzle clogs?

 

[The Hat]

tsu3000 Would it be wise to resolve the clogged head before purging/refilling with dye black?

The sooner you do the refill the better as the dye ink can only help to clear up the rest of the head (Beautiful picture)

Now youve got that far and while you have the black cartridge out to clean it, put a drop of Windex on the inlet nozzle
of the black till you ready to pop the new cleaned cartridge back in again.

To dry out your cartridge quickly you can use ghwellsrs method
http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=5382
and I can add to it, put a small screw under the tissue with the head of the screw
right at the outlet; it helps to make the tissue make good contact with the innards

The cartridge only has to be about 95% dry and just replace the tissue if soaked and you can then refill with dye ink right away.

Maybe I am being impatient since I am an unclogging newbie

You most certainly wont be a newbie after this..

 

[tsu3000]

The cartridge only has to be about 95% dry and just replace the tissue if soaked and you can then refill with dye ink right away.

So a purge with water using some contraption is not required before refilling with dye black?

Thanks.

 

[The Hat]

tsu3000
With the problems that you are having with the pigment black, I would suggest you purge that cartridge before refilling.
I use tap water myself but if you live in a hard water area I would recommend using distilled water.

Just dribble small amounts of water on to the inlet hole or inject it in to the reservoir and blow it
out with your mouth using the air vents over the sponge area a couple of times.

You wont get the sponge very clean as its pigment ink but youll see the water becoming clearer,
it doesnt have to be crystal as you are putting more black ink in anyway..

 

[tsu3000]

tsu3000
With the problems that you are having with the pigment black, I would suggest you purge that cartridge before refilling.
I use tap water myself but if you live in a hard water area I would recommend using distilled water.

Just dribble small amounts of water on to the inlet hole or inject it in to the reservoir and blow it
out with your mouth using the air vents over the sponge area a couple of times.

You wont get the sponge very clean as its pigment ink but youll see the water becoming clearer,
it doesnt have to be crystal as you are putting more black ink in anyway..

I'm thinking if its better to use distilled water (I live in a hard water area) using this technique in this video:
YouTube

Will the method in the video be suitable for carts used in the German Method ie with small drill hole near the bottom? I can see the carts in the vid have the exit hole in the top of the cart rather than the bottom as in the German Method carts.

Thanks.

 

[l_d_allan]

a few suggestions for ... nozzle cleaning steps:

Here are some additions from the Canon webpage for the iP4500: when searching for "nozzle check":

If the output is incorrect, perform the following steps:

1.Perform a print head cleaning.

2.Print the nozzle check pattern again.

3.If any lines or colors are missing from the nozzle check pattern perform another print head cleaning.

4.Print the nozzle check pattern again.

5.If any lines or colors are missing from the nozzle check pattern perform a deep print head cleaning.

Caution: Avoid performing more than three deep cleanings in a twenty-four hour period.

6.Print the nozzle check pattern again

7.If the Nozzle Check Pattern output is still abnormal even after Deep Cleaning, turn off the printer and letting it sit for 24 hours or more, then perform Deep Cleaning again. The wait time may allow dried ink in clogged print head nozzles to liquefy, and resolve the problem.

If the nozzle check pattern is still incorrect, service may be required.