PC Ink Intensity -15

[PalaDolphin]

@mikling may know the answer to this question for my Pro-100.
Why must I set Intensity to -15 using Precision Colors' ink vs Canon?
Here's the setting I'm referring to:
Print dialog box -> Properties -> Main tab -> Color/Intensity -> Set -> Color Adjustment tab -> Intensity: -15.
I'm not sure why this is named Intensity but it's exactly opposite of Brightness in Lr at half the value. The Intensity slider has a range from -50 to +50 where in Lr Brightness has a slider range from -100 to +100. Intensity is the negative of Brightness: I can get the exact same effect setting Intensity to -15 as setting Brightness to +30.

Here's the scenario: I bought my new Pro-100 a few months ago. I bought a set of eight empty CLI-42 cartridges off eBay, flushed and refilled them, set them aside anticipating running out of ink in just one of the original Canon setup cartridges. I swapped out all eight cartridges as recommended by @jtoolman and then printed the same photo with PC ink that I had just printed using Canon ink. It came out a little dark.

I'm using Canon Luster LU-101 paper. I'm using color profile PC42G_CanonPhotoPaperProLuster_PPPL_D50.
Dozens of test prints later (I used .TIF and .JPG test print files I acquired from @jtoolman) I determined the best match to everything I've printed on Canon ink is to set Intensity to -15; this works whether I'm printing from Ps or Lr because it's a setting in the printer driver dialog box and I don't have to modify my image in editing software.
Since I have no clue how to edit ICM files (color profiles), this is my quick fix for now.
What I get using PC ink w/-15 Intensity is almost exactly what I got from Canon ink except for just a tad bit less saturation which is barely noticeable and I can live with.

So, I can't be the only one experiencing this problem. What were your guys' solutions?

 

[Roy Sletcher]

(I used .TIF and .JPG test print files I acquired from @jtoolman)

To be sure we are making a valid comparison I Am assuming you have the same TIF and JPG standard files printed using both Canon and PC inks.

If so, I too would be interested in the reason. I will not be back home until the end of the month when I will duplicate this test on my Pro100.

Since my love affair with my Epson 3880 the Pro100 has not seen much service.

rs

 

[stratman]

Since I have no clue how to edit ICM files (color profiles)

AFAIK, you cannot with your ColorMunki supplied software.

 

[apetitphoto]

I really don't think you want to edit a profile. But in case I'm wrong, here's where you possibly start: http://www.color.org/icc32.pdf or if you're looking for tools try: http://www.color.org/profilingtools.xalter . You can also do it with Photoshop maybe: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/373912
This is a nasty business. Dante springs to mind, something about hope abandonment...

 

[The Hat]

Since I have no clue how to edit ICM files (color profiles),

Trying to edit someone else’s profile is like holding a fire cracker in your hand and lighting the touch paper. Now what....

 

[Ink stained Fingers]

editing a profile is not recommended and counterproductive to the purpose of an ICC-profile.
https://www.printerknowledge.com/th...-i1-publish-pro-2-be-edited.11601/#post-97584
And typical profiling software packages like ColorMunki or i1Profiler won't offer such an option.

 

[mikling]

You are likely double profiling.

 

[Roy Sletcher]

You are likely double profiling.

Most of the double profiling cases I have read about seem to result in a magenta or red colour cast although I guess results could be variable. It seems to be a very commonly reported error and easily made without being obvious in the various printer settings.

rs

 

[mikling]

That thousand of people have used this profile and even with Joe's profile, you need to do the same indicates a workflow issue. Same result when using OEM ink as well.
Second point, and an important one.......did you softproof the result? No. Time for more reading and then checking your workflow. Not an ink issue because it started apparently with the OEM inks as well.
Color management took me years to understand and a few feet of paper ( not long but HIGH) in the process.

Here's another strange anomaly to your adventure. Why does the first print come out a little dark but when compared to the OEM prints stated later appears a little undersaturated. This is counter to your first observation. Isn't it?

Looking at the adventure and overfilling which we saw the evidence for, I can suspect that when you first filled your carts, you might have cross contaminated the greys due to overfilling and this would explain the darkness if somehow GY got into LGY or some other darker color got into a lighter color. Then when the cross contamination was purged through more printing then you observed the under saturation. Which is there and why the ICCs are provided.

Next do a nozzle check and compare the color bars and how close the Photo Colors are to the Normal colors. You could also have put the incorrect ink into the tanks but then it would not be a case of intensity but cast. I'll put money that Cyan is in the PhotoCyan.

 

[PalaDolphin]

You are likely double profiling.

Meaning what?