OK, but what about the ellipsoids towards the center. How do you accurately try to control those shades towards the middle. Try doing that with a pigment ink printer and see what happens with just CMY and a few nozzles and eliminate grain.
Here's the full res version of the one in the set-up article FYIGuys, when you look at the photo of the sealed printhead bag in Keith's (as always) very detailed article
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/setting-up-your-new-pro-300/
as far as I can see (on the small sticker on the right) it is Canon part number F454008 and that's a QY6-0085
(I double checked with my spare)
in that case @mikling guessed right
The PRO-300 uses the same printhead as the PRO-10
Many thanks Keith !
............And in case the waste pads are full (again maybe a myth from old days, I never experienced it) probably the Russian hack will work (will try it on the Maxify some day)......
Please allow me a question that might be a little off-topic. What is "The Russian hack"? Resetting from service mode with the newest service tool? Re-flashing the EEPROM? Or?
What is it making this difference actually - apparently directly visible - gloss - gamut - granularity of the 4pl droplets or ?I already have an well maintained second hand P800 and was surprised by its printing quality even with aftermarket (Inktec Powerchrom K3), much beter than my previous Pro 3880.
I was previously thinking about purchasing the Epson P900 printer or even the Canon Pro 1000 but afterwards I decided to buy the P800: proven technology despite the MB/PB switch and refillable cartridges available or firmware hack so all cartridges stay full at all time. I already have an well maintained second hand P800 and was surprised by its printing quality even with aftermarket (Inktec Powerchrom K3), much beter than my previous Pro 3880.