Is it dead - Canon Pixma Pro 10-S, 26 flashes, error 6700

[palombian]

I had too, otherwise it would have been a complete waste of time getting the Pro 10 and continuing to use the Pro 9500, pretending everything was going to be alright.. I had to change over sooner or later..

I still use a PRO-9500II for A3(+) office prints and posters, photos on matte/fine art paper (and old glossy paper stock where the PRO-10 causes ink pooling).
The PRO-10 is for glossy and luster photos only.

 

[The Hat]

if you couldn't find the battery of the Maxify, you didn't search well enough.

I wasn’t specify looking for the battery, I was examining the waste ink tank to see if a Printer potty would work better, but back then we couldn’t reset the waste ink counter, so I didn’t fit one..

 

[palombian]

I wasn’t specify looking for the battery, I was examining the waste ink tank to see if a Printer potty would work better, but back then we couldn’t reset the waste ink counter, so I didn’t fit one..

Off topic, the Maxify pumps the waste ink up to the top of a kind of tower in the back at right to drop it down again on pieces of felt. Probably to enhance the absorption capacity of the pads in the bottom.
Very easy to connect an external tube with minimal disassembly.

The WIC of my first Maxify was 48%, I did reset it (to test) but bought a new printer afterwards.
Martin would provide a potty but the ones he had were horizontal, while IMO for the Maxify a tank that could be attached vertically at the back would be better, so I dropped the project.

A Maxify is cheap and the printhead probably is long gone before the pads are full (at least with the crappy 3th party inks) it doesn't make much sense.

 

[real-nowhere-man]

/edit: replied to the wrong thread, this is an answer to this thread:
https://www.printerknowledge.com/th...ice-mode-tricks-with-canon-pixma-pro-1.15147/
since, however, it offers a solution to a similar problem I will leave it here as a crosspost./

Hello together,

Just got my PRO-1 back to life with a 6700 Error / 26 times flashing yellow and 006 service tool error thanks to this forum.

I accidentally unplugged my Pro-1 from the wall over christmas, and there it was lying for a week without tension. When I switched it on again, yellow and white leds startet flashing 26 times.

Followed all the above mentioned steps, but could not get past 006 error in 0034 and other versions of service tool.

Changed the CR2032 battery with the printer plugged in. Nothing changed.

Somehow the printer did not appear in Windows 10 Device Manager, neither in normal or in service mode when plugged in via USB. I tried to use a newer computer to access the printer via usb, i don't know whether I had the right drivers properly installed on that one. So i switched to an old computer installation where i had the drivers still installed. There the printer popped up in the Device Manager.

I then tried to get into service mode by clicking several times on the power switch with the white led and the other with the yellow one - until i figured out that I always used the wrong combination! The one at the start of this post suggests to press the yellow button 4 times after first holding it while pressing the white power button first and meanwhile holding the white power button. This also put my printer in the strange mode described in the first post of this thread where the printer operates some mechanics and you are able to print nozzle checks by operating it via the buttons. But the yellow led button has to be pressed 5 times to get into service mode!!

So - press yellow led button (left one), hold it while pressing white led button (right one). Then release yellow button and while holding white button press yellow button 5 (five) times. the led should start flashing between yellow and white and be yellow after the last time pressing the yellow button. then release white led button and you should be in service mode.

With that setting I was able to use service tool v0034 to "set time" (under other - operation) and it confirmed me with a message that something was applied. I could not reset the wetting liquid counter at that time, it was giving me a 009 error.

So I then turned the printer off via the white led button, waited a minute, and turned it on via the white led power button - and there it started it's usual initiation procedure after not using it for a while, i.e. head cleaning.

Now it is printing again.

Thanks to you all that enabled me to get so far and give this printer hopefully some more lifetime! Just registered to the forum to share this with you.

 

[dalmatinodog]

as palombian already mentioned, there is no such thing as "live" EEPROM that has to be connected to the battery, but there is CMOS (Complementary metal-oxide-semiconductor) which gets erased when battery (usually CR 2032) is disconnected. CMOS is for instance used for BIOS settings in desktop PCs. I suppose printer stores in CMOS last print settings which you used, so when you turn the printer off and then on again, it uses settings from your last "session".

Could you try the following; replace the battery, have printer disconnected from power supply, press and hold On/Off button for 30 seconds, then plug it back on and try to start it?

 

[real-nowhere-man]

What would that 30 second press do after changing battery and unplugging in your opinion? Is what you mean ,to replace battery while still being connected to the grid?

As my PRO-1 just wasted a lot of precious ink after reconnecting and resetting it, and as I am just happy that the printer is working right now, I do not want to tinker with that state - so I will keep your suggestion in mind for the next time should this problem appear and post an update here, if so.

 

[dalmatinodog]

sorry my response was meant to be for the original poster of this thread if they are still looking for a possible solution. Don't fix if it ain't broken.
Holding power button while unplugged should eliminate the residual static charge. It helps very often with PCs when not booting properly (e.g. after some harware change etc.). Replacing the battery while still being connected to the grid would probably be the best choice if the OP still did not find any solution.

p.s. unplugging the device and pressing power button for some 30 sec would also be recommendable before you start any repair on electronic devices such as PC, printer etc.

 

[The Hat]

p.s. unplugging the device and pressing power button for some 30 sec would also be recommendable before you start any repair on electronic devices such as PC, printer etc.

As good as your suggestion maybe, you might want to reconsider them regarding Canon Pro printers, these new printers are not to be taken lightly and can sting you back for interfering with them..

 

[LazyHeat]

as palombian already mentioned, there is no such thing as "live" EEPROM that has to be connected to the battery, but there is CMOS (Complementary metal-oxide-semiconductor) which gets erased when battery (usually CR 2032) is disconnected. CMOS is for instance used for BIOS settings in desktop PCs. I suppose printer stores in CMOS last print settings which you used, so when you turn the printer off and then on again, it uses settings from your last "session".

Could you try the following; replace the battery, have printer disconnected from power supply, press and hold On/Off button for 30 seconds, then plug it back on and try to start it?

 

[LazyHeat]

From my experience: It stores page count, waste ink usage, and trouble codes, both past and current. I got away with removing the cell overnight, with the power disconnected. The printer thought it was new. I wouldn't recommend this, I might have gotten lucky.

Edit: Another thought. There is no way that the EEPROM is being modified every time the printer prints a page, or every time the counter for the waste ink counter ticks off a new number. This is not the nature of the beast; the battery-backed CMOS has to be where these counters are stored.

This is from https://whatis.techtarget.com/definition/EEPROM-electrically-erasable-programmable-read-only-memory

...However, an EEPROM chip has to be erased and reprogrammed in its entirety, not selectively.​