Homemade CISS

[ThrillaMozilla]

The spring constant has to be right for the diameter of the bottle, but they will work.

 

[aaa]

http://resetters.ru/index.php?showtopic=30665&pid=249831&st=0&#entry249831


I'm sorry, unnecessary post, photo deleted from there.

 

[wss]

First, a safety feature. The vent, shown in A43 by yellow arrows, runs high up on the bottle. This insures that the air regulator (the Tic-Tac box below the bottle) will not overflow if the cap is left untightened or there is an air leak at the printer.

Can you please explain - how does it work ? I thought that for air it does not matter how high the tube is - it will still flow at the same speed. I suspect that if you open the cap at the bottle - the box will oveflow and the air pipe will be full of ink as well - depending on the level of ink in the bottle (roughle, only 1 sm lower than the original level of ink in the bottle).

Third, the outlet tube comes into the bottle from above.

Where do you see this ? All schematics show low level of the outlet tube. The fotos do not show how the tube go inside the blue bottle.

1. That printer mfr's are evil

What is "mfr" ?

 

[ThrillaMozilla]

The vent, shown in A43 by yellow arrows, runs high up on the bottle. This insures that the air regulator (the Tic-Tac box below the bottle) will not overflow if the cap is left untightened or there is an air leak at the printer.

Can you please explain - how does it work ?

If you leave the cap off, it can't overflow unless you fill it higher than the top of the tube, which is above everything except the neck of the bottle. A41 shows it better.

Third, the outlet tube comes into the bottle from above.

Where do you see this ? All schematics show low level of the outlet tube. The fotos do not show how the tube go inside the blue bottle.

From A41 you can see that the outlet joins the side of the bottle. It appears to come in from above, with the tube opening presumably facing down. If he didn't do it this way, he should have.

 

[aaa]

to wss:

to ThrillaMozilla:

 

[wss]

The vent, shown in A43 by yellow arrows, runs high up on the bottle. This insures that the air regulator (the Tic-Tac box below the bottle) will not overflow if the cap is left untightened or there is an air leak at the printer.

Can you please explain - how does it work ?

If you leave the cap off, it can't overflow unless you fill it higher than the top of the tube, which is above everything except the neck of the bottle. A41 shows it better.

no - the ink tube goes quite low - so ink will stark coming to the box throuth it and then will go to ventilation pipe - this is why the bow will be outflown and ink will go above - to the ventilation pipe; whether it will come to the highest curve of the ventilation pipe depends on the original level of ink in the bottle

PS Why you find A41 more informative than A43 ?

------------------------
A45 - what does it mean ? Why you switch from bottle plus box to 3 bottles ??? Do all three bottles have different height of the incoming point of the ink pipe ???

 

[turbguy]

Wouldn't this scheme work as well or BETTER with regards to compensation of air pressure and temperature changes? If the recovery outlet were just 2-4 mm above the print head ink outlet, that is the maximum difference in balance level variation permitted...and you could collect the recovery and re-add it to the bottle as desired. Of course, when refilling the bottle, you would plug the vent and pinch the print head and recovery lines. But if you are REALLY concerned with maintaining a VERY NARROW constant pressure head to the printer, this seems very simple. AND I bet you could just modify existing CIS systems....

 

[ThrillaMozilla]

WSS, the point of the safety feature is to keep ink off the table, not out of the tube. If that's still not clear, then just get a bottle, some tubing, and glue. Make a copy of the device and start playing with it.

Sorry, I'm pressed for time and don't have time for more explanations.

 

[wss]

WSS, the point of the safety feature is to keep ink off the table, not out of the tube. If that's still not clear, then just get a bottle, some tubing, and glue. Make a copy of the device and start playing with it.

Sorry, I'm pressed for time and don't have time for more explanations.

Lack of time does not turn incorrect statements into correct ones. If you mean one thing but say a dfferent one - I refer to what you say not to what you might have thought about.

Wouldn't this scheme work as well or BETTER with regards to compensation of air pressure and temperature changes? If the recovery outlet were just 2-4 mm above the print head ink outlet, that is the maximum difference in balance level variation permitted...and you could collect the recovery and re-add it to the bottle as desired. Of course, when refilling the bottle, you would plug the vent and pinch the print head and recovery lines.

It may be easier (twice !) to not cut the tik-tak box before glueing it - it will remain longer/bigger... I don't understand why aaa did not glue the original cover of the box to the box...

 

[PeterBJ]

Up to picture A14 I understood everything but I don't understand A15.

I will follow ThrillaMozilla's suggestion and buy some tic-tac mints and build a model using one bottle just to see how it works. I have the rest of the materials and tools needed.

BTW aaa what is the outer diameter or the gauge of the needles shown in post#50?

Although refilling is the perfect solution for me, as an average home user, I find this series very interesting and admire the project