Freedom Refill Method for Canon BCI 3, 5, 6 & CLI 8 & PGI 5 and others

ThrillaMozilla

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ThrillaMozilla said:
The HP564 CMY cartridges leak air at the top of the sponge chamber.
(Slapping forehead yet again. Problem solved.)

I just had to refill again. This time I checked one of the cartridges that gave me so much problem with leakage. I checked by pressurizing it under water.

The result: pure human error. I thought the vent was sealed, but nooo....


So I have to conclude that the Freedom Method works fine, even with very simple equipment. All that's needed is something like my adapter, plus preferably an ordinary 60 mL syringe.


Here are my current precautions and recommendations for Freedom Filling.

1. Three pumps with a 60-mL syringe is sufficient to fill the cartridge most of the way.

2. If you continue filling, you can actually overfill it and get ink in the vent. If this happens, after you are done, with the vent open, draw out about 1 mL. I recommend also sucking a drop of distilled water through the vent to make sure it's clear.*

3. Do not allow air to pass back into the cartridge. It is advisable to fill the syringe with more ink than is needed, to accommodate a minor amount of foam. I usually use about 2 mL extra, but some types and brands of ink foam more than others. If you are filling more than one cartridge, you can use a lot extra.

4. If the cartridge does not hold a vacuum, you need to seal the vent better. I use Stick-Tac, underlain by tape to keep Stick-Tac out of the vent. You might also have a loose label, as in the magenta cartridge in PeterBJ's picture here.

5. After filling, I check the cartridge for drainage. If it drips any ink, I withdraw another 1 mL or so as a precaution.

6. After filling, I give the cartridge a couple of good hard raps, just in case refilling has moved the sponge out of position. (Be careful not to hit the exit port--remember, it has to seal against the print head. I use a strip of wood on the bottom for protection.) I also tap the cartridge to make sure there is no bubble between the chambers. Both problems are discussed here. I don't know how common these problems are, but they apparently occur with all refilling methods.

7. If you have a large container of ink, it is probably a good idea to pour the ink you are going to use into a small secondary container, and never to pour ink back into the large container (to avoid contamination). You can return the excess ink to the small container and reuse it.

8. As a safety measure, to keep from splattering ink when you break a connection, do it under vacuum. For example, when you remove the tool from the cartridge after filling, there will be ink on the tool. But since the syringe will normally have a slight vacuum, ink will be sucked inward. If you instead have remove the syringe under pressure, it will blow ink outward -- which of course is fine if you like colorful surroundings. :D

_____________
* Some people worry about diluting the ink with a drop of distilled water, but think nothing of purging a cartridge with water, and possibly leaving a couple of milliliters behind! Don't worry about a drop or two at the top of the sponge.
 

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I have found this pump claiming to be able to get pressure down to -0.085Mpa that means nearly -1 atmosphere. I'm sure that is enough for full refill of CLI-8 with single pumpdown, max 2 times with the pump doing the hard work.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=171033318586

Any thoughts about this pump, are the better alternatives for same price?
 

ThrillaMozilla

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A 60 mL syringe is better for the purpose and it only costs $1.
 

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ThrillaMozilla said:
A 60 mL syringe is better for the purpose and it only costs $1.
Yes if filling only with a 60ml syringe that is correct, however if filling using luer 3 way valve, and 2 syringes. One for ink another for vacuum then perhaps the pump is better. I had new idea how to fill using just a syringe, cart cap, some tape to seal the cart. No contraption of any kind needed. But I need to test this for a while.

The obvious problem is sealing the air vent, or vacuum can't be obtained. I'm resolving the issue by making sure I make perfect seal with just sticky tape. The solution is to make the sealing better by gluing a layer of very thin plastic with a punched hole of 4mm.

The glue has to be special, ordinary glue will not work. If the cart will work OK, I'll post some pictures.
I'm also having secondary thoughts on making it better as gluing the stuff ain't easy, and nobody wan'ts to make bad carts from normally working ones. But I must note I have only damaged a cart by gluing a my finger and ruining the shiny surface that suppose to seal better.

I think I know how to make it at least 50% more easy to do now !

I'll keep you posted.
 

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As 1 bar approximately equals 0.1 Mpa, a negative pressure of 0.085 Mpa means that approximately 15% of air is left in the cartridge after evacuation. This is not an impressive performance for a vacuum pump.

The nominal capacity of a CLI-8 cartridge is 13 ml. Probably a flushed and dried CLI-8 will contain 15 ml of air. Pulling the plunger out to the 60 ml mark, when doing a Freedom method refill would mean that approximately 20% of air is left in the cartridge. When doing a Freedom method refill multiple pumping operations are necessary to fill the cartridge, so I doubt that you can fill the cartridge in one operation using the pump. Then the method with the pump is no longer elegant but more cumbersome than using a syringe. The CLI-X21/x26 have a capacity of 9 ml. Probably the syringe will outperform the pump, when refilling these cartridges?

Rotary vane pumps are capable of creating a much higher vacuum than diaphragm/piston pumps, and are available for mains operation, but are also more expensive.

Maybe a 12 V rotary vane compressor from a car compressor horn could be pressed into service as a vacuum pump by reversing the motor's direction of rotation? If the motor is a permanent magnet motor just reverse the polarity of the supply voltage. If the motor is series wound, then you will have to rewire it to change current direction in either the armature or the field winding.

I think this motor could be run from the 12 V from an old PC power supply, but you will have to start the motor with a resistance in series to limit the start current, else the over current protection circuit will shut the power supply down. I think a couple of series connected car headlamp bulbs with the filaments series connected will be a fine starting resistor. Start with all four filaments in series, and as the motor gains speed short out the filaments one by one until they are all shorted out.

If you try this (crazy?) idea, please report results.

Also some newer Canon printers have very little clearance above the cartridges, so don't glue anything on top of the cartridges. See this thread: http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=8770 . I didn't know this, but even printers of earlier generations might have a clearance problem, see this thread: http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=3348&p=1

I have done some experiments with the Freedom refill method, and I found that alumin(i)um tape is an excellent seal for the vent. I would recommend using that instead of gluing anything on top of the cartridges.
 

ThrillaMozilla

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Well, you certainly can use a vacuum pump instead of a syringe if it suits you. You'll have to decide what is easiest for you, but I suggest that you start with a syringe and then decide if you want to wire and plumb this thing.

Remember, this think pumps up to 4.7 L/min., and you don't want to get ink into the pump. Yes, you can buy a better pump for a lot more $, but a really good pump could also boil the ink. This isn't a high-vacuum operation. 85% is probably good enough.
 

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The windshield washer pump looks like a centrifugal pump, intended for liquids only. When pumping air it will have a very limited suction, it might not even be self priming.

But maybe this inexpensive car tire pump could be modified into a vacuum pump? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-MINI-...ETTE-BIKE-CAR-VAN-TYRE-INFLATOR-/270940875959

If a hose can be attached to the air intake, everything is simple. Else maybe the pump can be rebuild, see this youtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGxbh5-aPXk and this instruction: http://www.avdweb.nl/composites/vacuum-pump-diy.html
 

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Oh I have done a car tire pump mod myself in 2007 !
http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2193

And the mod in the link you gave is for the pump that I have made the car tire pump mod myself, only my way it can be still used as car tire pump and as a compressor, I mean to blow air out from your computer etc.

Still using it to fill batches, but for single fill I would like something more compact and simple.

I agree that a 60ml syringe is very good, perhaps best. Today I filled a CLI-8 cart in 3 pulls of the plunger ! About 15sec total time. The hard part was gluing the plastic to the cart so sealing is easy.

I will try aluminum tape maybe it does seal the intake, and I don't have to glue anything. Thanks for your ideas.

P.S. I wonder if the pump I posted could by used for suction of dust (trough filter) from cameras etc. if a venturi vacuum contraption work it could not be worse could it?
 

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I think that pump is not suitable for powering a miniature vacuum cleaner. Vacuum cleaners do not create a very high vacuum but move a lot of air. The pump in a vacuum cleaner is a centrifugal pump/blower.

This refiller made by gigigogu uses a rubber pad to avoid sealing the vent with glue, tape, etc.: http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=46801#p46801 .

I have used a product similar to Blu-Tack to seal the vent. It seals well, but can be very difficult to remove from the vent using a needle. I have also successfully used a double sided sticky tape, intended for sticking posters to the wall, for sealing, but the alumin(i)um tape is the best in my opinion.
 

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