DIY - custom silicone gaskets

[PeterBJ]

I think this is the silicone sealant recommended by Tandberg: http://www.casco.se/index.php?contentID=131&productID=1182&productcatID=163 Note spelling without an "e". In Danish and probably also Swedish the element Si is called Silicium, so we don't have the Silicon/e spelling problem. It seems Google translate does know the difference: http://translate.google.dk/translat...contentID=131&productID=1182&productcatID=163

 

[ThrillaMozilla]

Yes, language is funny, isn't it? Google Translate says silicon is kisel in Swedish. Note also that he correctly spelled the word in English, even though he or she is apparently living in Sweden.

Incidentally, if you want a good laugh, try translating Danish to English with Google Translate.

 

[barfl2]

Tandberg, nice technique, and nice spelling.

Barfl, note the difference between silicon and silicone. Silicon runs your computer, but it makes terrible gaskets.

Whats an e between friends. you are quite right. It must be my epiretinal membrane problem again. In other words Cannot see straight.

PeterBj You are right to suspect the slack fit. When I had a HP 5390 you really had to push down quite firmly. When I switched to Canon I immediately noticed how soft the pressure and how easy it was to accidentally dislodge a cart. Best of luck with solving the problem. When I took a HP 364 cart to pieces the foam is very firm and the ouput filter was hard enough to measure with a micrometer, which explains the locking pressure required to get a good seal.

 

[PeterBJ]

I did the "toothpick hardness test" suggested by Tandberg and the HP seals are much harder than similar Canon seals. Some rubbers harden over time, I wonder if this has happened. The history of the printer is unknown, the printer was a dumpster find. Apart from the leakage problem it appears to be OK.

The Canon seals are too low to give a good cartridge fit, but they could probably be raised by gaskets made from orange clip seals. I have some defunct Canon print heads from which I could use the seals. I have also seen some silicone gaskets to replace or place on top of the original ink inlet seals, when using a CIS. So I have a lot of experimenting to do and will buy some silicone sealant. When I have some results, I will report them, whether positive or negative.

The reason I would like to get this printer 100% OK is that I would like to make something similar to aaa's CIS, so I'm following aaa's thread with great interest.

 

[Tandberg]

PeterBj

Gaskets with a hard surface don't make good seals if the force compressing them is low.
Even is you add a softer layer below the seal will still be qustionable. It's usually the other
way around, soft surfaces and a hard core that fills the rest of the gap.

If you need to make new holes in whatever material you choose there is a source for thin
metal tubes in the telescope antennas on transistor radios. You get thinwalled brass tubes
in a variety of diameters in one go. Sharpen with a file or grinding paper, a rough edge is
an advantage, it does not stick to the rubber as easily as an edge with a mirror finish.

 

[PeterBJ]

I have cut holes in silicone disc seals from Canon compatible orange clips. I have placed one disk under a Canon ink seal and two on top of Canon ink seals, in the HP print head. It gives a nice firm installation of the cartridges. I'm now going to see if it leaks after some days. I have also bought silicone sealant for further experiments if the other solution doesn't work. For cutting small holes I use a pair of pliers type leather punch, but I will look for a defunct transistor radio, to make punches from the antenna. I have found when cutting rubber with a knife, water is a good lubricant.