Colormunki Photo repair

[W. Fisher]

I was using the i1Diagnostics 4 to check my i1 Photo Pro 2 head and also to check my old Colormunki Photo.

I was surprised to see the Colormunki Photo "Failed" a few times in the test. Usually from the sensor facing up and turning it down past the horizontal 3 o'clock into the 4:30 Calibrate position. Sometimes it would "Pass," but mostly it was "Failed." Ugh! Been maybe 3 years since I sent it in to x-rite for a replacement. Decided to eat my own advice (Per post #2) here and order some replacement cable strips.

Digi-Key said they have over 200 of them so I bought three. Cost with shipping, tax, and some new China Tariff (which was $1) came out ot about $20 and I got them in 3 days via USPS. Not to bad. Now to tear into it. I think I have some silver reflective tape here used on model aircraft to tach the prop RPM speeds with an optical tachometer should the internal CM-P tape be bad.

What I just got.

W.F.

 

[Adamphotoman]

I bought the same circuit cables, but, when I got into the ColorMunki the cable was still good and, the plastic that held the reflectors was also okay. It turned out that the reflectors weren't reflecting because they were fading. See post #26. I decided to fix only the reflectors and all was good.

 

[W. Fisher]

Mine began to act up and not detect rotating the dial or reading once past the calibration part. x-rite replaced mine once prior, but now I had the goods to fix it myself since it started acting up and failing to read.

I replaced the cable first. Rough job with the 90 degree bends they make at the head and the cable holder in the rear of the unit. I pinched one badly when I installed the two screws holding the cable in the housing so I used another new one out of the bag above. Had to use old cable to mark for the bend locations.

Once installed, same thing. Refused to read or maybe not getting the idea that I had rotated the dial. Aegh!

Tore into it again. Cut cut four pieces of the adhesive backed reflective tape and stuck where the four faded markers were. Back together again and all is well.

Aside, easiest way is to remove just the left hand side (Looking down from top with USB cable at rear towards yu.) cable and leave the large wheel, USB cable swivel, and right side intact that holds the cable. The left side has the four reflective markers, and using a needle you can wedge and remove the plastic strip holding the thing so you can get off the grease and make the new reflective tape stick better.

W.F.

 

[palombian]

Mine began to act up and not detect rotating the dial or reading once past the calibration part. x-rite replaced mine once prior, but now I had the goods to fix it myself since it started acting up and failing to read.

I replaced the cable first. Rough job with the 90 degree bends they make at the head and the cable holder in the rear of the unit. I pinched one badly when I installed the two screws holding the cable in the housing so I used another new one out of the bag above. Had to use old cable to mark for the bend locations.

Once installed, same thing. Refused to read or maybe not getting the idea that I had rotated the dial. Aegh!

Tore into it again. Cut cut four pieces of the adhesive backed reflective tape and stuck where the four faded markers were. Back together again and all is well.

Aside, easiest way is to remove just the left hand side (Looking down from top with USB cable at rear towards yu.) cable and leave the large wheel, USB cable swivel, and right side intact that holds the cable. The left side has the four reflective markers, and using a needle you can wedge and remove the plastic strip holding the thing so you can get off the grease and make the new reflective tape stick better.

W.F.

Great job!

As we all found out, it isn't the cable but the (fading) position markers.

 

[W. Fisher]

The reflective tape with the adhesive back came with a Harbor Freight Tools tachometer.

Amazon sells a bunch of the tape here: Reflective adhesive-backed tape. I wouldn't be surprised if even a white labeling tape out of a Brother P-touch label maker would work as well as the silver ones.

Works great now, and it reads only one point different than my much more expensive x-rite Photo Pro 2 unit. Very positive sensing change in the dial as to the mode selection and no more stuttering and maybe a dozen turns to get one good lock-on and reading.

I see there are a lot of Colormunki Photo's for sale on eBay, some for as low as $200 where a new one from Calibrite Studio version is around $570 now. No doubt they may have been getting tossed out for the reflective sensor errors which is an easy 15 minute fix when approached from the left side (Which leaves the large rotating dial intact with its cabling and routing.) which is the side with the larger dial's press-to-read button.

 

[pharmacist]

I was able to obtain to buy 2 second hand Colormunki/Calibrite devices for only €80 and €100.... My first device is sometimes having difficulty to find its position due to the fading position sensor strip, but still going strong.

 

[palombian]

I was able to obtain to buy 2 second hand Colormunki/Calibrite devices for only €80 and €100.... My first device is sometimes having difficulty to find its position due to the fading position sensor strip, but still going strong.

A Colormunki hoarder

 

[Actionman]

I have one of these from my late brother that I am planning to sell. It appears to be new, unused in its box.
Is there any kind of battery inside, rechargeable or otherwise?
How would I test the unit before sale without installing software?

Thanks, David in Australia.

 

[pharmacist]

I have one of these from my late brother that I am planning to sell. It appears to be new, unused in its box.
Is there any kind of battery inside, rechargeable or otherwise?
How would I test the unit before sale without installing software?

Thanks, David in Australia.

No battery included, should be ok.

 

[Actionman]

No battery included, should be ok.

Thanks for that info. Any other test I should do? I have connected it to a USB charger and nothing seemed to happen. No lights or any sign of life, should there be? Or only after software install and connection to a computer?