Canon Pixma 620

[barfl2]

I recently recounted my travails with my much loved 620 but still had a good head available. The same model was advertised on E-bay which implied not used for a few weeks and needed a PGBK cart. There was keen interest in this machine and I duly won the auction.

Fillled the OEM PGBK cart user had been using Tesco compatibles ugh did a nozzle check and got the PGBK and yellow (tesco one) gradually replaced with refilled OEM nozzle checks got better but not brilliant and no Photoblack at all.

Changed to my head (same number) and got the same result. A gentle blow through vent produces ink but no output. The m/c makes a queer moaning sound when head cleaning but no other odd noises and no error messages. I wondered about purge station the square plate usually shows streak of magenta and whether something not quite right.

I feel the listing was misrepresented it sounded ready to go just a PGBK cart but nevertheless if I can salvage it want to do so. any ideas appreciated

 

[barfl2]

Further to my first post cleaned head but the flow test to input with a piece of tubing flowed slowly and the last 1/2" remained. Dried re-installed This time got a good nozzle check except only 1 Magenta strip. trial of stock photos were hopeless colours all wrong. looks like I bought a pup.

 

[barfl2]

Got the used Canon Pixma MP620 printing reasonably bot good nozzle check but still only 1 good Magenta. Does the lack of the 2 lighter ones indicate still blocked nozzles or logic board problem. There is not a slightest trace of magenta on the other 2 bars

 

[Łukasz]

Hi,

two lighter strips are 2 pl and 1 pl nozzles respectively.
To me it is still blocked nozzles problem rather than electronic failure. It may be outdated ink.

Typical electronic failure should disable Cyan and Magenta 2 pl and/or 1 pl printing, or make two Magenta lighter strips just little lighter, but still present.

Ł.

 

[barfl2]

Thanks Lukasz New batch of ink so looks like more cleaning is required. Prints not bad but seem less saturated than my old print head, but with that one no PB at all so that inlet channel being cleaned.
At least got a printer which works and can use up the new batch of ink recently bought, and the old one as spares.

 

[barfl2]

I thought I would clean the PB channel from the old 620 which did not show at all on previous nozzle checks. Ran warm water to clear all channels and then started on the PB pickup fitted a tube filled with windolene (No Windex here) the column did not really move so filled a syringe and tried alternatively pushing/pulling the fluid. After a little while column going down nicely with distilled water.

Dried head off with paper towels and then dried it further with the wife's hairdryer on moderate heat. Left overnight tried re-installing the next morning and got the dreaded B200 message. I have obviously done something wrong too much pressure on syringe? or water left in the electrics (unlikely) so that I assume is the end of my spare head.

The original in the S/H M/C I bought is fine after my original clean. prior to the traditonal overnight soak in window cleaner Originally I had PGBK and a little yellow, nothing else Now got a good nozzle apart from only 1 magenta strip which you explained why. I am a bit nervous in doing anything else to that channel now I have lost my spare head.

 

[PeterBJ]

.......or water left in the electrics (unlikely).............

I think it cannot be ruled out that water killed the print head. When flushing a print head under running water, water can easily enter wrong places, see this:

 

[Łukasz]

Half year ago I was "boiling" few printheads in distilled water (I do not recommend that, I was in need).

First test next day showed short-circuit (test with multimeter, similar to B200 watchdog test). The same 2 weeks later. Finally, after 3-4 summer months in very dry attic, short-circuit test was passed and printhead worked fine.

Ł.

 

[barfl2]

Thanks for the hope Lukasz I have left mine on the top of a radiator (only occasionally warm at the moment) but worth a try. No doubt other ignorant users would like to know the contacts you use to test the short circuit and what setting on the multimeter.

 

[Łukasz]

Multimeter (inexpensive UNI-T UT33C) was set to 20 MOhms (everything with range from 5 MOhms is suitable for printhead testing purposes).

Testing pads (QY6-00073 is cutdown version QY6-0080 showed below):

gray - black probe of multimeter
red - red probe of multimeter


QY6-0073 printhead taken from my first real printer - MG5150.
Dry printhead test (values after "/" is measured with reversed probes):

1. 4,32 MOhms / (out of range)
   
2. (out of range) / (out of range)
3. (out of range) / (out of range)

Wet printhead test (stream of steam was used to simulate hot ink inside condition):

1. 3,5 MOhms / (out of range)
2. 3,5 MOhms / (out of range)
3. 2,7 MOhms / (out of range)

Real life values can be also as low as (printhead taken from working printer):

1. ? / 0,3-0,5 MOhms
2. ? / 0,2-0,3 MOhms
3. ? / 0,2-0,3 MOhms

Real life example of defective value is (one of my QY6-0080 error "B200" affected printhead - taken from MG5250):

• (3) 5 kOhms / 5 kOhms (measurement range 2 MOhms)

Note symmetric and low resistance.

Other dangerous values:

Check all pairs between black dot and red dots with both polarization.
Typical values are 1,5 MOhms or more.
Defective value is ~0,07 MOhms on any pair, especially in both direction.

There are other possible measurements, especially to detect "U052" error.

Ł.