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That looks amazing. Must be one of the biggest object I've ever seen made with a domestic 3D printer. Worthy of the Guinness Book of Records (or at least a Guinness).

Maybe this is a good excuse to get a CNC machine? Something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5nyjvytlBk

Progress! I found an old set of OEM starter carts (nearly empty) and the printer is happy with them. It's strange that the compatible carts that were previously working very well in this printer are now producing the 6502 error (even a fresh set). Unfortunately I don't currently have any bulk...

Thank you @PeterBJ for that really helpful reply. I'm going to dive in and see what can do. Will report back. Incidentally, FWIW ClamAV reports the 4720 service tool as virus-free. As I'm on Linux I'm not too worried and would run the service tool on a disposable virtual machine.

Hi folks Can anyone tell me what stupid thing I've done wrong? Background: my MG7550 has been unused for a year or so, apart from light scanning duties, as it was in need of a printhead cleaning that I never got around to. So I finally soaked the printhead in Fairy liquid for a few hours (kept...

You could try selling them on ebay.

What temperature did you increase to? Are you using Real Filament? I find 225C works reasonably OK for my white PETG, but I still haven't completely solved the blobbing problem.

My 3DQF filament measures about 1.85mm, whereas their spec sheet says it should be 1.75+/-0.06. It doesn't matter to me as long as the diameter remains fairly constant throughout the roll, which I think it does. Otherwise you might get regions of over/under extrusion within a print.

It's fairly common for filament diameter to vary between manufacturers, and even (to a lesser extent) within the same role roll. The general advice is to measure each roll of filament with calipers in several different places and take an average. The result should be entered into your slicing...

Thanks!

Can you elaborate a little on the best way(s) of flushing? Is it sufficient to hold the head under a running tap? In a hard water, presumably a final soak in deionised water be a good idea?

SD cards can sometimes be revived by formatting them in a camera (it rebuilds the partition table, which a normal PC format would not). Not always, but worth a try.

Here's a good educational video about hotends (complete with a giant 3D printed model): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzRAVkXjw3I

That should be a straightforward print. PETG is not so good at certain things, such as bridging, but I don't think your part has any. The main thing is to get the first layer right - get the temperature and z-height right and stand by with tweezers to remove any stray oozing off the nozzle or...

As it happens I also have some (white) PETG from Real Filament. They vary a lot between manufacturers, so perhaps @The Hat's PETG is harder to work with, but I've had reasonable success with mine. It does take some experimentation to get good results, and my settings might not work for you...

Yes, I got the 3DQF midnight silver PLA (thanks to @The Hat for PMing me about it) PLA and I'm impressed how well it's printing. Sticks well to plain glass at 55C and extrudes well at 195C.

You don't need to trust wifi if you use Octoprint - it's just used to transfer the STL file to the Raspberry Pi's SD card. The print itself is controlled by the Pi via USB (or, optionally, from the printer's SD card) so wifi problems or PC reboots won't affect the print. By the way, I also have...

There is a problem either with your wiring from your heated bed to the board with the board itself, such a MOSFET that has failed short. Either way, physically disconnect your heated bed and see if that cures the problem.

Try Slic3r - much easier to switch profiles.

Can you post the scad code?