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I don't know how much Klipper/pressure advance helps but I think at these very slow speeds not much - so I reckon you'll be ok (and you can use linear advance in Marlin in case that helps). I'm just using the standard plastic extruder, bowden tube and hotend. It works perfectly at 15mm/s but I'm...

I just printed this phone case on my Ender 3 pro (standard Bowden setup) in Sunlu TPU. Bridging and overhangs worked out quite well. Took about 7 hours at 15mm/s. Sliced with SuperSlicer, 2.5mm retraction, and using pressure advance and Klipper firmware.

Another option is simply to boot into Linux from a USB drive. Then install Cura or Prusaslicer. https://platypusplatypus.com/chromebooks/install-linux-usb/

There is a forked version of Freecad (eventually to be merged with the official version) that solves this problem and allows the less complicated method to work properly. See the video series I linked to above for details.

There's a new series of well-presented Freecad beginner tutorials:

Shell thickness looks good - 3mm (rather than 0.3mm), which makes good sense for your lamp.

I'm also a bit confused because I'm not a Cura user. I was after the number of perimeters or wall thickness. If that's really 0.3mm then it would be less than the normal 0.4 nozzle, so it probably means something else. Reason I asked, I remember seeing some strength testing and it turned out...

I think in Cura they call it "wall thickness".

How many perimeters do you use?

What speed do you print TPU? I stick to 15mm/s on my Ender 3 with bowden setup, but your direct drive should presumably handle higher speed?

The main purpose of the "fix" is to prevent the tube from riding up away from the nozzle and causing extrusion problems. Using Capricorn tubing has the side-effect of allowing slightly higher temperatures to be used - OK for careful experimentation but not really a long-term substitute for an...

Some people get extruder clicking problems with Capricorn tubing because it's too tight for some filament. I recently did the 'hotend fix' that involves putting just a few cm of Capricorn tubing into the hotend, with the standard tubing going from the extruder to the top of the hotend. See

I was thinking about those Triangelab bi-metal heat breaks, but heard conflicting reports about them. Let me know how you get on. Yes, just a cheap "micro-swiss" clone. But this has the advantage, unlike the genuine article, that the heat-block can take a thermistor cartridge (that is, if the...

Thanks. I think the secret is pumping up the acceleration, otherwise even relatively modest speeds can't be reached, especially on small-sized prints. So slicing at 60mm/s might really only get printed at, say, 40mm/s. I strongly recommend looking into Klipper Firmware (for this and other...

They're just overexposed areas - it's not like that in real life. Printed in Sunlu copper silk PLA+, so very shiny and tricky to photograph. The photo doesn't really capture the colour and metallic look very well.

... I should just add that the downside to all-metal hotends is that PLA tends to jam - though there are ways around that. I've just ordered a cheap one from Aliexpress to experiment with.

If you're planning to print that hot (above 240) you really need an all-metal hotend. The PTFE tube in standard Creality printers goes right down to the nozzle and will degrade and jam. More importantly, PTFE off-gasses neurotoxins at those temperatures - known to kill pet birds and not great...

I printed this yesterday in 1 hour 0m 42 s on my Ender 3 to test some new filament (the chimney went bad because the print detached itself at that point). Mostly unmodded apart from an SKR Mini 2.0 board running Klipper firmware (Klipper is one of the best free upgrades for any printer IMO...

Very clever design!

@The Hat, how is it fixed at either end - pressure fit or is it glued?