Methodical
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Welp Opura your call.
Underwhelmed By Pro-100
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opurora
Getting Fingers Dirty
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Nah, I think I will wait to see how others are faring with firmware 1.1 and refilling before I upgrade.
New photos that I've printed only the Pro-100 (and not on the Pro9000ii) are coming out pretty close to what I'm seeing on my monitor. Still a tad warm though.
I've been very busy with other things lately. Next week I will try to dig in and see if I can sort out the warmness issue and I'll report back.
New photos that I've printed only the Pro-100 (and not on the Pro9000ii) are coming out pretty close to what I'm seeing on my monitor. Still a tad warm though.
I've been very busy with other things lately. Next week I will try to dig in and see if I can sort out the warmness issue and I'll report back.
Methodical
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Last edited:
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Sorry I have not read ALL the posts in this thread, but what PROFILES are you using? When I was making Datacolor profiles from my SpyderPrint for my 9000ii I found without fail they were a tad warm, and even worse the amount of warmth fluctuated along the colour ramp. being more pronounced in the midtones.
I know that Datacolor provides an editor to adjust profiles, but trying to use it is a real challenge as you cannot see the effects in real time. You make a best guess and adjust your parameters, make another profile, print the result, and then adjust again if necessary. Frustrating and time consuming
If you are using OEM inks on canon paper with a Canon printer and printing a standardised test target that has NOT been edited you should be getting neutral prints with correct tonal ranges, and that is the way to start. Canon printers are so simple in this regard.
Note: NOT all standardised test images are equal - use one that is independently acknowledged to be neutral.
Anyway if you recount your results later in the week I am sure others more able than I will be able to help you.
Roy S.
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opurora
Getting Fingers Dirty
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@Methodical I use primarily Photoshop CS5/6 or the resurrected Lightzone for editing.
@Roy Sletcher, thanks very much for your input. I borrowed a ColorMunki from a friend as my Asus VW266H was very difficult out of the box to set up. However my friend moved to the east coast and I no longer have access to it.
This Pro-100 stymies me, it prints test images fine. Only my own pictures give it trouble. Very aggravating. I didn't have this problem with my 9000ii.
@Roy Sletcher, thanks very much for your input. I borrowed a ColorMunki from a friend as my Asus VW266H was very difficult out of the box to set up. However my friend moved to the east coast and I no longer have access to it.
This Pro-100 stymies me, it prints test images fine. Only my own pictures give it trouble. Very aggravating. I didn't have this problem with my 9000ii.
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If it prints test images correctly and not your own, then there has to be something going on with you images. Otherwise the test images would also print off.
I can't really imagine what it could be as my PRO-100 printer perfectly out of the box and even better now with Mikling's new profiles for his inks.
I can't really imagine what it could be as my PRO-100 printer perfectly out of the box and even better now with Mikling's new profiles for his inks.
Methodical
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That's what I was thinking and why I wanted to know what he used to edit his photos - maybe some accidental setting maybe. I was even thinking maybe his monitor, too.
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My guess, and that is all it is, is that you have a defective procedure somewhere in you colour management workflow. Because as Joe says you are printing exactly the same for the test image and your own processed images. The only difference is the post processing of your own images using your unique workflow. The acid test would be to print the test image, and one of your own images simultaneously on the same sheet. If they still show differences than it just has to be your colour management.
As with all colour management start verifying your monitor is displaying colours correctly. Just because you have used a Spyder or Colormunki to produce a profile does not necessarily mean you are seeing colours correctly. The "el cheapo" monitors sold for supposed discounts in the big box stores are notorious for poor colour rendition, frequently yielding no more than 6 bit colour and only a fraction of the sRGB colour space and sometimes just can't be accurately calibrated. At the very least you need a good IPS panel. Cheap laptops a re also notorious for bad colour rendition and frequently even worse than the cheap laptops mentioned above.
Finally a caveat. Colour management get complicated quickly and computer forums are full of wannabe experts. Be very careful to make sure you are consulting reputable sources. B&H no less recently put out a how to print video on youtube with multiple factual errors about colour.
Unfortunately colour management can be a PIG. But when it works properly it saves time, money, and leads to predictable results.
Sorry to be so verbose, one of my many faults. Or so my wife is fond of telling me.
Roy S.
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Since a Standard Image is printed without ANY alteration, the monitor factor is eliminated. With the correct standard settings in the printer driver, and assuming all is working properly, you should get a nearly perfect print, neutral and correct color and density.
If the monitor is not calibrated and you then edit an image on that monitor, you then introduce every single problem that un-calibrated monitor may be suffering from to that image file.
Color space used during editing will also come into play.
All I can say is that yes, I did initially get a slightly warm B&W print with my newly set up PRO-100. The warmth would either appear or disappear depending on the light source I was using to view the print under.
A quick custom profile solved that 100%. Now that I am using PC inks, mikling's custom profiles are spot on. No need for me to create any on my own as I am getting near perfect matches to my monitor ( Colormunki Calibrated ).
Unless there is a mechanical problem with the printer or the driver / OS combo doesn't get along well, nearly 99% of the color, density and overall print quality issues are usually due to user error, or incorrect work flow. Believe me I know! Been guilty of that more times that I want to admit to and still make mistakes when I get too cocky!
Joe
If the monitor is not calibrated and you then edit an image on that monitor, you then introduce every single problem that un-calibrated monitor may be suffering from to that image file.
Color space used during editing will also come into play.
All I can say is that yes, I did initially get a slightly warm B&W print with my newly set up PRO-100. The warmth would either appear or disappear depending on the light source I was using to view the print under.
A quick custom profile solved that 100%. Now that I am using PC inks, mikling's custom profiles are spot on. No need for me to create any on my own as I am getting near perfect matches to my monitor ( Colormunki Calibrated ).
Unless there is a mechanical problem with the printer or the driver / OS combo doesn't get along well, nearly 99% of the color, density and overall print quality issues are usually due to user error, or incorrect work flow. Believe me I know! Been guilty of that more times that I want to admit to and still make mistakes when I get too cocky!
Joe
