SilverWings
Newbie to Printing
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2011
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Howdy everyone. I should declare up front I'm new to this forum and at present I'm new to the refilling idea, though I did have a CISS for an Epson for some time (with mixed results). Well the Epson died some months ago and I finally got around to doing some photo-printer shopping and found this forum. I just purchased a Pixma MG6120 so it will probably be some time before my original carts NEED a refill. But I've been reading up on many of the postings here and while there's a lot of opinions, it seems the two valid refill methods are "top fill" and "german". Messing around with the sponge side, like vacuum refilling or outlet saturation, doesn't seem to be a good idea. (Both top fill and german methods inject directly into the open reservoir) Canon seems to have gone to some lengths to regulate the pressure balance in the cartridge and any alterations to the pressure balance are best avoided. With that in mind, I see some minor flaws in both top fill and german methods:
TOP FILL
Obviously top fill depends heavily on the user reestablishing a seal on the fill hole. If the seal is not true, air will leak through and the entire cartridge will leak all over the place. The other issue I see is that during filling, ink simultaneously filling both the reservoir and the sponge, which could over-saturate the sponge. (more on that in a minute)
GERMAN
The german method obviously gets around the vital seal issue of the top fill which is probably it's best feature. However with the insertion hole remaining open, it does alter the airflow / humidity path that Canon set up so carefully. Inserting the needle through the foam pad has the potential to damage it if not done right. Plus with the new 225/226 carts, you have no way to know just when it's full and there's no failsafe to prevent you from overfilling it potentially over saturating the pad or possibly clogging the serpentine air pathway.
Back to sponge saturation - I took note in Phamacist's very nice photos of the german method that after filling, the ink is allowed to naturally absorb into the pad at it's own rate (the bubbles photo). Top fill cannot do this as you can't flip the cartridge over while filling due to that pesky gravity thing.
BOTTOM FILL IDEA
Ok here's my idea. Basically, you take top fill, and flip it over, drill into the bottom wall of the reservoir, and fill just like you do in top fill, then reseal. I suggest this for two reasons. 1) after the chamber is full, apply the seal, and flip over. If you've sealed it right, the cartridge is completely unchanged from a pressure balance standpoint. The pad absorbs what it needs naturally like when it was new, just like German method, but without plunging a needle through and leaving a hole open. 2) It is easier to seal the bottom fully than the top. This might seem counter intuitive, but consider - the top fill seals against air, bottom fill would seal against a liquid, which for argument sake is similar to water. Water is 50x more viscous than air (I looked it up) and requires a much larger opening to leak through. Also, if there should be a leak, you're more likely to know it right away - a small air leak would work over time, out of site, while a bottom-ink leak would start right away, before you put it in the printer. You'd probably have to use tape or hot glue to seal, since it would need to be almost flush, which is the only a down side I can think of compared to top fill. (Though I have found aluminium foil tape to be fantastic at similar applications)
I'm interested in what you experienced types think. The only problem I can't figure out is how to get around these opaque carts (short of doing a chip-change onto the 221's) but if you did overfill, it wouldn't over pressure the cartridge like the german method would - it'd just start leaking out the fill hole. But I haven't seen anyone with a good solution to this problem yet, either.
TOP FILL
Obviously top fill depends heavily on the user reestablishing a seal on the fill hole. If the seal is not true, air will leak through and the entire cartridge will leak all over the place. The other issue I see is that during filling, ink simultaneously filling both the reservoir and the sponge, which could over-saturate the sponge. (more on that in a minute)
GERMAN
The german method obviously gets around the vital seal issue of the top fill which is probably it's best feature. However with the insertion hole remaining open, it does alter the airflow / humidity path that Canon set up so carefully. Inserting the needle through the foam pad has the potential to damage it if not done right. Plus with the new 225/226 carts, you have no way to know just when it's full and there's no failsafe to prevent you from overfilling it potentially over saturating the pad or possibly clogging the serpentine air pathway.
Back to sponge saturation - I took note in Phamacist's very nice photos of the german method that after filling, the ink is allowed to naturally absorb into the pad at it's own rate (the bubbles photo). Top fill cannot do this as you can't flip the cartridge over while filling due to that pesky gravity thing.
BOTTOM FILL IDEA
Ok here's my idea. Basically, you take top fill, and flip it over, drill into the bottom wall of the reservoir, and fill just like you do in top fill, then reseal. I suggest this for two reasons. 1) after the chamber is full, apply the seal, and flip over. If you've sealed it right, the cartridge is completely unchanged from a pressure balance standpoint. The pad absorbs what it needs naturally like when it was new, just like German method, but without plunging a needle through and leaving a hole open. 2) It is easier to seal the bottom fully than the top. This might seem counter intuitive, but consider - the top fill seals against air, bottom fill would seal against a liquid, which for argument sake is similar to water. Water is 50x more viscous than air (I looked it up) and requires a much larger opening to leak through. Also, if there should be a leak, you're more likely to know it right away - a small air leak would work over time, out of site, while a bottom-ink leak would start right away, before you put it in the printer. You'd probably have to use tape or hot glue to seal, since it would need to be almost flush, which is the only a down side I can think of compared to top fill. (Though I have found aluminium foil tape to be fantastic at similar applications)
I'm interested in what you experienced types think. The only problem I can't figure out is how to get around these opaque carts (short of doing a chip-change onto the 221's) but if you did overfill, it wouldn't over pressure the cartridge like the german method would - it'd just start leaking out the fill hole. But I haven't seen anyone with a good solution to this problem yet, either.