Pgi 225 & Cli 226 Chips Are Blowing Using Usb Resetter.

[PeterBJ]

What confused me was that the headline here says Redsetter, but the resetter is green and another brand: http://www.octoink.co.uk/products/Canon-PGI%2d225{47}CLI%2d226-Redsetter-[USB].html . I guess it is a typo, it should probably have been "resetter" instead of "Redsetter".

 

[websnail]

Ah, b*gger... Thanks for spotting and sharing that. I hadn't picked up on it.

That particular isn't a REdSETTER at all so that definitely needs changing.

Thanks again!

 

[PeterBJ]

The green resetter on this page also needs a renaming: http://www.octoink.co.uk/categories/Refill-Tools{47}Kits/Chip-Resetters/

 

[websnail]

I need to sort redirects via htaccess due to the way the cart works but thanks for spotting that too..

 

[pearlhouse]

So I have two of these resetters. Inkjetcarts.com gave me a second one when I complained the chips were blowing. I have now checked out both and the voltages are same on both.
Is there an easy way I could convert these to battery operated by removing the usb plug and then soldering on two wires (some where) to run outside the case to a battery?
I know you guys are not here in the states so you probably don't deal with Inkjetscarts.com but Im curious if anybody over here is dealing with them. How can they be selling these things if they don't work???

 

[PeterBJ]

I think the easiest way to solve the problem is to leave the resetter unchanged, but replace the 5.07 V from USB with a slightly lower voltage. Conveniently 3 series connected fresh alkaline cells have a no-load voltage of 4.65 V. This will bring the resetter's supply voltage down to 4.65V - 1.44V = 3.21V which is exactly what we want. In use the voltage from the alkaline batteries will drop, but until the voltage from the battery pack goes below 4.4 V the resetter should still function.

To supply the 4.5 V 3 alkaline AA or AAA cells housed in a small battery box stuck to the underside of the resetter is convenient, see this post: http://www.printerknowledge.com/thr...-canon-can-they-go-bad.7592/page-3#post-58359

To connect the batteries to the resetter you could sacrifice an ordinary A-B USB cable. If you cut a USB cable you will find 4 wires inside: Red, black, green and white. The red wire is for +5 V and should connect to plus from your battery pack. The black wire is -5 V and should connect to minus from your battery pack.

To save the USB cable you could also solder the wires from your battery pack to the proper soldering pads on the underside of the circuit board, below the USB receptacle. To localize the proper pads use the USB type B pinout drawing found here: http://www.usb3.com/usb3-info.html and use the continuity test function in your multimeter to localize the proper pads.

The switch at the top of the circuit board might not disconnect the battery when the resetter is not in use and C2 is an electrolytic capacitor, which has some leakage current. Both things can drain the batteries so a battery box with an on/off switch is recommended.

Another approach is to redesign and rebuild the voltage regulator circuit, and keep the USB powered operation, but this will be a very fiddly job, to say the least.

Wouldn't it be much easier to order a new resetter and discard the problematic ones?

 

[pearlhouse]

I got a say THANX!! for your interest in this subject. I agree with you and have ordered a new resetter from Precision Colors and this should solve the problem. However I like to mess around with this kind of stuff as it helps me learn about basic basic electronics so I plan on wiring in a small battery pack as you have explained just to give the idea a shot.
Thanx again
Once I get the new resetter I will report back if my problems have ended and I can get back to just refilling my carts as I did for the 221 carts.

 

[PeterBJ]

You are welcome!

 

[pearlhouse]

Well Im back with more info. I did attach a battery pac to the resetter with 3 AAA batteries and also a switch as you suggested. When I turned the switch on the led on the board went thru it normal sequence changing from green to red 3 times and then went out. I tried to reset a cyan mag and black chip and blew all three of them again! Then tried to recheck the voltage at c1 and found very little voltage about .3 volts. If I pushed the button on the usb board the voltage would start to climb very slowly. If I held it long enough I could get about .7v. Im not sure what all this means except that I blew 3 more chips. So the experiment was interesting but ???? I thought I would just post this info for you Peter FYI. I cant afford to screw up any more chips until I can find some more carts with good chips. I barely have enough now to keep the printer running. I did find some on EBAY that I bid on and am waiting for the auction to end. Right now its too cold here in Ohio at -3 F to be venturing out to office depot or staples so now I will wait for my new resetter from precision colors to arrive.

 

[Tudor]

Hey, @pearlhouse !

What is written on C2 (V and uF)? Can you measure the voltage on C2 after the startup sequence has ended?