Old photographer interested in DIY printing

[stratman]

Precision colors are still recommending it on their website, and his refill kit gives a cleaned CL-8 cart for refilling the yellow, only requires a chip change.

OK. That's why I brought it up so that @PalaDolphin would be aware of the issue. I would suggest he start with aftermarket Yellow ink, such as from Precision Colors that can also provide a flushed cartridge for Yellow, and never use Canon OEM ink unless he is only and always going to be using OEM Yellow.

Is one able to source a CLI-42 Yellow chip without buying a new cartridge? Then he could start printing using only aftermarket Yellow and bypass any issue with the dreaded Yello Gello.

 

[The Hat]

Getting a Pro 10 would avoid all the messing around with switching cartridges and chips, and their cartridges are far more refill friendly too, you can then say to bye to the Yello Gello syndrome...

 

[PalaDolphin]

Getting a Pro 10 would avoid all the messing around with switching cartridges and chips, and their cartridges are far more refill friendly too, you can then say to bye to the Yello Gello syndrome...

@The Hat keeps mentioning the Canon PIXMA Pro-10, so I have to research it. There's a huge difference between the Pro-100 and Pro-10 in quality, technology, and price. It's diverted my research into colorimetry and specifically metamerism. This from Canon's website:

The PGI-72CO Chroma Optimizer for the PIXMA PRO-10 Professional Inkjet Printer is a critical element to attaining professional print quality with accurate color and reduced metamerism, on coated papers. The Chroma Optimizer reduces the difference in ink droplet height to form a flat and smooth ink layer. The result is evenly reflected light, deep blacks, and bright, saturated colors.

The Pro-10 uses pigment ink where the Pro-100 uses dye ink. I'm still confused about the difference. From what I understand it's a step up in art reproduction. The Pro-10 adds two more ink cartridges, red and chroma optimizer, for a total of 10. And the list price almost doubles, from $400 to $700.

The price is going in the wrong direction. I originally was interested in buying a new PIXMA iX6820 for $150; it's still an option since the seller on Craig's list is incommunicado. I'm referring to a seller of a Pro-100 in box w/o ink cartridges for $75.

Next Wednesday, August 10, I'll have the funds to purchase the PIXMA iX6820 and if not contacted by the Pro-100 by then, I'll buy it. This is my first dedicated photo printer in a decade. When I become more successful financially as a photographer, I'll be able to afford something like the Pro-10.

Since I have yet to settle on a printer, choosing a refillable ink cartridge path is up in the air.

@The Hat introduced the Canon Pro-10 into the conversation which ultimately led to comparisons like Epson line. The Epson R3000 and R2880 come to mind. However, after taking a look at all the Epson printers, it's another full day of research.

 

[The Hat]

@PalaDolphin, While admittedly the Pro 10 is a high price but in B & H sales there is only $50 in the difference, but what you get for the extra $50 bucks is well worth it in my estimation.

Now the iX6820 is a nice machine but what your save in purchase price you’ll pay ten times with these small ink cartridges, I reckon you should stand back from your purchase a while and look into the cartridges a bit further, like size, cost and eventually maybe even refilling.

You’ll need deep pockets to run the iX6820 exclusively on OEM inks...

 

[mikem65d]

Are we still recommending to not refill the Canon Pro-100 OEM Yellow cartridge for fear of the "Yello Gello" clog?

I have cleaned and use the yellow now, but it's not the easiest to clean, but if one takes their time and does 2-3 windex soakings, the yellow comes out cleaner than the Cyan's......pure white sponge actually.

Have 4 sets now that are cleaned and ready for refill, but the Cyan and PCyan do not come out pure white.
2 sets are from my original sets i started with and were the hardest to clean.
the other 2 sets i got from Octoinkjet and they cleaned up like typical cli-8's with the exception of the Cyan...........almost pure white, but not quite.

The Yellow from all the sets came out pure white.........I shine a bright LED thru them too to make sure no yellow remains.

I'm sure Mike is safeguarding the new to refill user so that they don't experience the frustrations associated with the CLI-42 Y should it not be cleaned properly.

 

[mikem65d]

There is a brand new Pro-10 on Clist for 200.00 right now................very tempting, but i just can't justify the cost associated with using it.

The Pro-100 is everything i need.

Agree with Hat, the Pro-100 will give you more in terms of quality and ease of use once you get into the routine of refilling the cartridges.

 

[Roy Sletcher]

Only you can make the final decision within your comfort zone, and of course you are going to receive all sorts of conflicting advice, including this message.

My advice is the you cannot go wrong with the Pro-100. Especially as you should be able to get one within the US$150-200 range. If not on Craigslist, then certainly on eBay.

For that you get an ideal printer to make your return to serious printing.

It is robust, for the most part it is also reliable, trouble-free and easy to use. There is a large body of expertise on this board and elsewhere about it's use and it has few foibles. It has an easy and economical refilling procedure, and reproduces colour to a very high standard.

The 8 colours give outstanding colour and black and white images every bit as good as equivalent pigment printers. Especially in the saturation and "colour popping" comparisons. On gloss stock the pigment printers cannot get close in this category.

On the downside the results are more dependent upon careful paper selection. Longevity can also be a factor if you are selling the prints, and needs to be researched carefully. Generally the dye prints will last for several years in controlled environments but not the hundred plus promised with OEM or pigment inks.

Happy hunting.

rs

 

[mikem65d]

Agree with Roy in regards to paper.
image is of photo printed on Canon glossy II (top) and Canon Pro Platinum (bottom).....the pro paper gave true blues.

Nice to see that you joined up here. Since I joined a couple years ago I've received all the help in the world from everyone here who are more than willing to share their wealth of knowledge............And Heck, i almost don't get any ink on my fingers when doing a refill
-mike

 

[PalaDolphin]

Screw choosing the right printer, I want to know how that model plane crash landed! LOL!

 

[mikem65d]

It's called Free Flight which was before the days of Radio Control plane flying.
Pretty much the oldest form of the sport.
The plane goes vertical via the 2 stroke engine that produces 4HP for 9 seconds to which an onboard mechanical timer device kills the fuel feed. The model then transistions into a glide mode. 3 minutes later, and the same onboard timer (does 4 functions) releases the rear of the stabilizer to incline at a 40 degree angle which acts like an air brake. the model then descends back down to earth. This particular design is highly modified from it's original design of 1957. Weighs 3.5 LBs. 8' span, and lands like a feather.
That's the reason the small chase bike is in the picture..........for retrieval. The gentleman in the chair is timing the flight.
This goes on until one can no longer make a 3 minute total time flight. Contestant with highest time at end of meet wins.
Oh ya, after first 3 flights of 3 minute each, the engine run time gets reduced to 5 seconds, so picking lift becomes the science to all this.
Been doing this since 1963.
At least this is the edited version

here is a video which can also shed light on the sport if you're interested, (fast forward to the 20 minute mark to see the power stuff)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=In921Qx5FlQ