leaky CLI-8 cartridge

[fotofreek]

The silicone plugs are very cheap and very positive - they don't appear to require tape as a backup seal. I refill while wearing latex gloves, and handling tape with gloves is a pain. My first refilling experience was with the use of "sticky wax", a type of wax used in dental laboratories. It is very much like hot glue. It did work well, but removing it for a refill was a nuisance. The screw/O-ring technique was very positive with never a leak. Using an electric cordless screwdriver or small cordless drill/screwdriver was faster and neater. The silicone plugs are even faster to use - pull it out, refill, replace it. No tape, no tools, no leaks.

Also, to remove the factory plastic ball I've heated a straightened paper clip red hot and made the starter hole in the ball for a very small hook eye to be screwed in. Once the ball starts to move when screwing in the hook eye, it pulls out easily. No different from using a tiny drill, but i've found it to be handier as everyone has a paperclip and a source to heat it.

 

[barfl2]

To get the ball out I use a manual pin vice equipped with a 1mm drill. Carefully drill as close to centre as possible, just go in a little way then insert a small screw eye (as used for curtain wire) and pull ball out.

Fill your cart put ball back in remove scew eye cover with aluminium/duct/tape and test for leaks.

Can anybody see a problem re-using the ball assuming it is a good snap fit not damaged and cart inverted does not leak. If OK this overcomes any cart height problems with the newer printers. I do not know whether NEW balls are available in the UK

I have also used this method to remove the balls and it works well. On more than one cart, when I removed the label there was ink in the ball hole. This would indicate that the ball seal may not be perfect and this has been discussed here before by a member with much more experience than myself.

I would think that if you clean the top of the cart well and use brand name duct tape/foil tape that the ball will provide 90% of the seal so the tape only needs to make up the other 10%. This is a nice cheap solution with about as much chance of success as a silicone ball hole plug.....good advice for those on a budget barfl2.

I find the silicon plugs particularly the unflanged ones devils to hold with rubber gloves on. I also use a Home made Hole punch to cut the label over the ball. Once you have your little thread from the screweye you can easily pull the ball out again and hopefully reuse. It also solves the clearance problem I had a flanged silicon on a 521BK cart pull out and now do not trust them on their own but add a piece of tape, which is slightly adding to the height.

 

[PeterBJ]

barfl2 wrote:

...I also use a Home made Hole punch to cut the label over the ball...

This looks like a good idea, much better than using a Stanley knife or a scalpel to cut the label. Could you give some details, please?

 

[The Hat]

If you guys have any problems grabbing onto very small bits and bobs or even handling pieces of adhesive tape
while wearing latex gloves then get yourself a mini pliers with a curve tip,
the picture says it all I think..

 

[barfl2]

barfl2 wrote:

...I also use a Home made Hole punch to cut the label over the ball...

This looks like a good idea, much better than using a Stanley knife or a scalpel to cut the label. Could you give some details, please?

Picture shows the little tool with cart with hole in label. Commercial ones exist for cutting leather/material etc. I also use a Swann Morton surgeons knive, if you rub your finger around the hole to highlight it I can run the VERY SHARP BLADE around nearly as well. Swann Morton products usually available at Hobby/Medical/Craft outlets.

 

[The Hat]

barfl2 wrote:

...I also use a Home made Hole punch to cut the label over the ball...

http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/uploads/5268_img_3100_copy_edited-1.jpg


I hope I dont put my foot in it again, but the hole doesnt look very clean cut, from your picture anyway.
Then maybe it is ..

 

[PeterBJ]

Hi barfl2

If the "well" the sealing ball sits in is not damaged I think it doesn't matter if the hole in the label is not perfectly clean cut. I think the punch is safer to use than knives etc. Searching the web I have found punches of 5 and 6 mm size, but no 5.5 mm size. Would any of these two sizes be suitable? And do you tap the tool lightly with a small hammer or press it against the label and twist it to cut the hole?

 

[FastForward]

I had to go and look, but I was sure that I had the real thing in my tool box, a punch for leather that my father had. It is 9mm but if someone were to cut and sharpen a piece of automotive brake line, which comes in many sizes, and glue, solder, or weld on a similar handle it would be ideal for the job.

 

[mikling]

The larger plugs don't seal at the top. They seal internally at the bottom of the tunnel. As a result, even if the hole was not clean on top, it does not matter.
If you use a hobby knife (Xacto type) and pierce the label at the indentation, you can cut on the inside of the hole and use the hole sides as the guide. Quite easy and clean.

 

[barfl2]

Hi barfl2

If the "well" the sealing ball sits in is not damaged I think it doesn't matter if the hole in the label is not perfectly clean cut. I think the punch is safer to use than knives etc. Searching the web I have found punches of 5 and 6 mm size, but no 5.5 mm size. Would any of these two sizes be suitable? And do you tap the tool lightly with a small hammer or press it against the label and twist it to cut the hole?

I use a small hammer, 6mm would be better give a larger clearance around the hole. The label is very thin so some cuts are cleaner than others. As Mikling if the hole is undamaged the ball seats a lot lower down and usually goes in with a nice click. My punch was homemade but I have a larger 10mm which has smaller shaft of about 3/4mm. This type could possibly be held in a drill chuck and rotated but this is a bit of overkill really.

The main aim of the punch was to get a clean hole and not cut any of the plastic around the hole which you can easily do with knives, particularly the large Stanley type. If using a knive I only use the surgeon type.