L1800 mainboard in Epson 1430

[Nozzle]

@Nigel

I even had crazy thoughts like removing the chip sensor unit and sticky-taping the CISS chip-set onto it and leaving it connected but sitting next to the printer.

My man right here! Great idea, nothing crazy about it, just shows you are a creative person. I get ideas like that every other day! You could try that, if you can pull it out. I think it would be a totally workable solution.

I have been told by retailers that their CISS chips for the 1430 act in a similar manner as the ARC chips in that they only reset when each individual ink runs low. Dominos.

That's why we have forums like this one - retailers are often just sellers, not experts in the field. I usually do my own research and then tell supplier what I need based on what I know, not on what they tell me. The way I understand it is this - a CISS that has a button on the chip plate (like this one - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CISS-FOR...469417?hash=item3a909026e9:g:gJQAAOSwG-1Wv9DZ) is resettable by pressing the button and this action resets all carts to 100%. I've had a similar CISS for my WF printer and it worked exactly like that. One colour goes to 0, initiate cartridge replacement procedure, press the button, cleaning cycle, all colours 100%. If you have a CISS like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CISS-for...169766?hash=item3ac5f37466:g:1-gAAOSw9eVXV2fm
Then I guess you either have to pull them all out or just one at the time.. They are easy to differentiate. You can clearly see the button plate.

In my case the air-space caused by removing the cart would cause that ink to cut out for several inches, but if I could press a button that shouldn't be a problem. The other inks continued just fine.

That's only if the cartridges still have ink in them. Otherwise you would still need to take them out and refill. That's why such button resetable chip plates only come with CISS units.

But, at the moment, I have my heart set on trying to swap the mainboard. That is to say, over the last 24 hours I have decided I will and now I am looking for evidence to support the decision I have already made. When that risk doesn't pay off, I will follow your great suggestions!

I think that's too much mucking around when there are other solutions available. BUT I would be very interested to know how it develops for you.

I'm in Brisbane.

 

[Nigel]

A couple of weeks ago I received my L1800 mainboard. I was careful to get the Chinese retailer to state explicitly that the board would work in the Australian 1430 and that it would make it chip free. I got great service and, when they heard why I wanted the board, they even attached an adapter to one of the connectors on the board to make it compatible. Definitely ask for this adapter if you are planning to try this trick, because it won't work otherwise. I can give you more details on the connector and how it remaps the wires if you like.

When I first got the board and compared it to images of the 1430 mainboard online I noticed it had a few connectors missing. These included Wifi, PictBridge and, as planned, the ink chip system. The only worrying missing connection was for the Paper Feed Sensor. The Paper Feed Motor is still connected, but this one sensor is not. I haven't noticed any problems yet. But I'll let you know.

Anyway, today I finally opened up the printer and swapped the mainboards over. I used the EPSON Stylus Photo 1400/1410/1430W/1500W/Artisan 1430 Service Manual, and the process of getting the board out was pretty painless. I had to buy the Epson L1800 (EURO, CIS) Ver.1.0.0 Service Adjustment Program (AP_L1800) and enter the Head ID of my original print head. (If you remove your carts you can read the Head ID from a sticker in the caddy.) Everything looks good and the prints look the same as always. There are still a number of other adjustments to do after replacing a mainboard, but that'll have to wait until another day as it is almost 2am.

Overall, my experiment has been successful. So far.

 

[Ionlab]

Very nice. Thnx for the follow up...and glad it is working out. Was hooking up all the hardware to the new mainboard straightforward (apart from the revised connector for what exactly?). What about the feed sensor....is it not needed anymore?

 

[Nigel]

Getting to the mainboard is pretty straight forward if you follow the directions in the service manual. The only tools you need is a phillips screwdriver and something to pry a few plastic clips. Hooking up the mainboard, once you get to it, is trivial. You simply need to unplug a number of small plugs (using a fingernail or screwdriver to pry them gently out) and ribbon cables (I just pulled them gently). The plugs are all colour coded but the ribbon cables all look very similar. I marked each ribbon cable as I unplugged them. Once the mainboard is swapped you just need to plug what you can back in. Of course, a few cables and connectors are left over.

I may have been mistaken regarding the Paper Feed Sensor. Comparing the two mianboards, the L1800 is missing CN1, CN2, CN6 and CN22 and has a shorter connector at CN4 (which required the adapter). I'm pretty sure CN1, CN2 and CN22 are Pictbridge, WiFi and the CR Contact Module (cartridge chips). An image at the end of the service manual suggests that CN6 leads to 'Panel Board-B' and CN4 leads to the 'Panel Board'. If the panel boards relate to the user panel then perhaps the differences have to do with the different buttons/lights on the two models? It was the CN6 that I originally thought connected to the PF Sensor, but I think I was mistaken.

 

[quino]

I'm doing the same modification of friend Nigel with a
board L1800 but I have my doubts if the CN4 connector, they put
an adapter or a connector with more pins.
I, remove the connector from the 1430w board of 15 pins, but when turning on
the machine flickers the LEDs of the WI-FI and does nothing.

 

[quino]

I would like to communicate with the friend NIGEL would be possible
publish your Email?

 

[The Hat]

@quino, click on the Name Nigel above, then click on start conversation, and your away.. Easy...

 

[quino]

As I can identify the versions of this model, it seems that there is an American and another Australian. Download the service manual that abounds in the network for the following models: Stylus Photo 1400/1410 / Stylus Photo 1430W / 1500W /

Artisan 1430. They coincide in the mechanical part, but with the main board no.

I clarify the SISCON presents a different reference, its different location number, the CN4 connector that brings the printer that I have in the manual appears as CN5. Pin 8 of the same connector in the printer does not go; in the manual goes to 3.3v.

In the manual the board is referenced as CA53MAIN, in the printer it is as CB53MAIN.


Replace the board with the L1800 with reference C53MAIN identica physically, in other forums have made this modification, but I need to identify the pine of CN4 that in the L1800 is smaller than in the 1430w and I need to make adaptation.

In the manual of the L1800 there is no electrical diagram.

In the electrical diagram of the 1430w according to version does not match the board of the machine.

Any ideas?

 

[anazoolik]

I talked to one of the retailers of the L1800 mainboard who assured me it would work in the 1430 to make it chip-less. I think I will take the risk and report back on the outcome.

Hi Nigel,
do you know the name of the seller? O asked a lot of sellers, but everytime i got the answer "only for L1800" or "buy a board for 1500W".
Thanks
Holger

 

[Nigel]

Sorry Guys, don't check back here often enough. I will get in touch with you each directly.

After all this time I am also happy to report that the conversion worked perfectly.