L1800 - ecosolvent - new printhead???

[turbguy]

First time I've heard of an Epson Purge Unit failure...sounds quite similar to some Canon failures (typically loose or clogged tubes).

As I said, it WAS air (lack of ink in the nozzle chamber). I did not expect a purge system issue with an Epson. Now I know...

 

[Stuart21]

There is a lesson here. Always clean and check the purge unit (routinely or in the case of a clog). If a purge doesn't remove the cleaning fluid from the purge pads, don't expect it to be pulling ink from a printhead.

Thanks Bert, but there is no way for me to know that. Bought the printer from China, (flatbed, Epson 1390 top; now L1800) had lots of probs, manuf gone out of biz I believe. As I said, Epson wont service as it is modded, so its a matter of poke here & there & see what happens. Sometimes you win - ;-)

Next development I would like to do will be an enclosed PF sensor. Either somehow enclosing the std sensor, or adapting a sealed 3rd party sensor that will work with Japanese electrons - I am not getting consistent start position which is critical for our printing. Anybody done anything like this?

 

[mikling]

The switch valve and Epsons have NOT been a good marriage. One wonders if the amt of clogged printers that allow selective cleaning via switching of the valve have had the valve fail and then diagnosed as a clog.

There is something to be said for KISS. Like even manually switch between MK and PK cartridges. But wait when it was KISS, everyone was complaining about the need to manually intervene. Now they pay the price!

 

[Stuart21]

As I said, it WAS air (lack of ink in the nozzle chamber). I did not expect a purge system issue with an Epson. Now I know...

I am using ecosolvent ink from Korea, for printing onto rigid ABS. But I only found the problem because I am running the 'racing version' L1800 - chassis only. So I noticed when cleaning that only a little ink was passing through the tubes.

Now main problem is start position - I need +/- 1 pixel, currently getting +/- 1 mm. Cleaning std encoder & sensor with naptha & compressed air - little change.
Anybody been able to improve this? I am thinking of a 3rd party (sealed) encoder for the PF sensor.

 

[Derrick Hembrador]

Hello @Stuart21. I'm planning of converting L1800 to eco solvent and kind of in doubt as I heard from a local printer technician that L1800 has a weak print head, he said it breaks from eco solvent conversion, but didn't explain in more details... What do you think about it? Have you experienced such thing wit your L1800 or have read/heard something like that? Also, is there no problem with the compatibility of the manifold of the L1800 and eco solvent ink contact?

Edit:

 

[Stuart21]

Hello @Stuart21. I'm planning of converting L1800 to eco solvent and kind of in doubt as I heard from a local printer technician that L1800 has a weak print head, he said it breaks from eco solvent conversion, but didn't explain in more details... What do you think about it? Have you experienced such thing with your L1800 or have read/heard something like that? Also, is there no problem with the compatibility of the manifold of the L1800 and eco solvent ink contact?

Edit:

Hi Derrick, yes I think the L1800 should be ok for eco solvent. The pipes have no problem (Not like the pipes supplied with aftermarket CISS systems - NEVER use these with ecosolvent ink.

What material are you printing on?

Sometimes I get what looks like a printhead clog - just total failure of one or more colours. However it is a blockage in the top of the ink buffer unit, just above the print head; a right angle where the passage changes direction to pass the ink from the input nipple, to the buffer chamber. To fix this you need to pull the buffer out, then stick a syringe into the bottom of the buffer (keep one syringe for each colour - LM & M can use one, LC and C can use one. too. So 4 syringes) Now the tip of the syringe is circular, & this will block against the valve in the bottom of the buffer unit. So you need to cut a couple of small V's into the tip of the syringe, say about 1 mm - 1.5 mm. Then when you push it into the buffer it will allow ink & air to flow each way. So draw a little air into the buffer, then pump a little air & ink out, onto e.g some scrap paper. Do this a few times until the blockage is gone. Then plug it back into the ink pipe, & you can pull ink into the buffer with the syringe. 'Mostly full' is ok, a bit of air does not hurt. Then put buffer back on the print head (Careful to not mix the colours, but if you do this 'one by one', this won't be a problem.

I would expect you should get 6 - 12 months or more from a printhead. They are getting cheaper now. I am using ecosolvent ink from Korea. Do you have a source?

If you had an extra set of ink tanks, pipes / buffers & possibly also printhead, you might be able to set you printer up for different inks. Changeover should take half an hour or so.

I have destroyed printheads by running pretty aggressive solvents through them, - perhaps because I left the solvent in too long. Just use regular solvent, 5 min / 10 min max -

Head strike can be a problem. What are you printing? Need to keep clearance, 1 - 1.5 millimetre min. (I am talking about my flatbed conversion - this doesn't apply to regular L1800s printing paper, etc)

Good luck,
Stuart.

 

[Derrick Hembrador]

I see. So where do you think that breakage of the printhead he's talking about coming from?
The pipes.. You mean of those of manifolds?

I'm thinking of printing on variety of substrates like vinyl, wood, plastic, textile, glass and maybe some stones haha, whatever I find interesting : )

Ink buffer unit? could you please show me a picture of it and the cut on syringe. I haven't really seen the printer live view, just from some photos. Sorry for the trouble and thank you for that tip : )

6-12 months or more from a print head? You mean it's durability? No I don't have any source yet.

Another set of print head, buffer, and inks/ink tanks etc for different kind of printing, that sounds good! but the change over time sounds like pain in the ass, maybe I'll just set up another machine or maybe that could save me from an expensive licensed RIP. Do you have any idea with the relation of the 1 licensed RIP strictly for 1 printer only, like Eukon digital's RIP? How does their licensing system work? how does it identify only to 1 printer. I guess you have an idea about it because you're running a customized flatbed printer.

What a lesson! I'm just gonna load it with eco solvent inks and maybe some textile inks . you left the eco solvent in? 5 - 10 min max? What do you mean? I don't understand. How are you not gonna left it in? if you're gonna use it every day or almost everyday?

I'm aware of the head clearance thing.

Have you tried loading it with white eco solvent inks? If ever? How was it? I'm thinking of loading white on my upcoming build.

I'm thinking of installing a 40 to 50 inches bed with an adjustable level. Do you think the friction drive and stock motor of L1800 will be capable of managing that?

Do you have any idea what is the weight limit of the L1800's feeding motor? I assumed it's not much because it was designed for handling papers anyway maybe you have an idea.

Do you think an airsoft motor alternative for the feeding motor would work? those motors are damn strong! Could the wheel encoder adapt into it?

What kind of drive did you build? What kind of build do you have? May I see it Stuart: )

 

[chesterch05]

Hi, im planning to convert my L1800 to eco solvent, any feedbacks on this?I want to know if it would last long because I was told that it cant handle eco solvent inks for a long period

 

[Mbaltay]

Hi, im planning to convert my L1800 to eco solvent, any feedbacks on this?I want to know if it would last long because I was told that it cant handle eco solvent inks for a long period

Hi Chester,

What did you find out about tolerability of L1800 with eco solvent? I am especially interested about dampers and printhead.

best,
mike