Important : Canon Pro-100 Cli-42 Yellow Ink

[mikling]

I wonder if the researchers at Image Specialists are now working on finding an additive that prevents the gelling, and doesn't violate Canon's patents? Has anybody told them about the problem? BTW somebody experienced in patent searching might find more clues to what Canon did to their new yellow dye inks?

I discussed the initial finding with them weeks back about the heavy dilution with water and they had never encountered this before. They indicated that never would have expected it. It was a suprise to them and you know it is a suprise to all of us. Now that we have learned from my finding about this, all refillers can now proceed with more knowledge about what to look out for in the future.

There are more differences as well in this generation. I've uncovered some with the Pro-10 already.

 

[mikling]

I wonder if the researchers at Image Specialists are now working on finding an additive that prevents the gelling, and doesn't violate Canon's patents? Has anybody told them about the problem? BTW somebody experienced in patent searching might find more clues to what Canon did to their new yellow dye inks?

Exotic measures require that you know about the problem and technology used. My suggested sledgehammer approach is to bypass it. We are so lucky to have the CLI-8 cartridges available. That is the simplest and most secure solution, and we now use ink that has a proven history of reliability and simplicity to the user.

 

[stratman]

Maybe those who are about to purchase a Pro-100, or any printer using the offending Canon Yellow ink, should skip using the included OEM Yellow and go straight to a refilled Yellow CLI-8 cartridge (with appropriate chip transfer) from the very beginning of printing.

 

[PeterBJ]

That looks like a very good idea to me.

 

[The Hat]

Mikling your method in post #40 is the same as mine just a bit more long winded, and the reason I mention it was that Windex may completely flush out all on the soluble yellow gel but won’t shift the solid particles.

What I was trying to achieve with the soaking was to rid the inside of the print head of dried solid gel, this stuff tend to go hard when it’s heated and then left to cool for a long period.

If the printer is left standing for more than a week unused then the usual nozzle check will show up this stuff up in the form of a poor printout, and numerous amounts of head cleans wont shift it.

There seems to be no right way to solve this issue easy and the method already discussed are probably sufficient enough to keep a printer working but the more we can do till something better comes along has to be a good thing, wouldn’t you agree.

 

[mikling]

About the instant switch before hat question. Yes, I would tend to agree however, I had the CLI-42Y and then the Refill ink and vice versa for many operations back and forth without problems.
As long as we go straight from the CLI42Y in the printhead into the Refill ink in one go, no problems at all. Remember that multiple refills are done without any mishap because the remaining CLI42Y concentration is still high enough to not cause a problem. As the concentration continues to fall with more refills, then we reach a critical phase where the reaction starts.

If the OEM yellow is removed initially then neither Canon ICCs nor my ICCs would hold.

Unless the user, completely switches over ALL the inks to refill inks, retains the chips and sells off the full Canon tanks to someone who really wants the archival nature of the OEM ink. This sale will likely more than pay for a set of tanks and resetter for the person using OEM inks. A win win on both ends.

Prospective users whose end goal is to refill should entertain that suggestion above. The benefit is that they get to use the provided ICC profiles and get well balanced photos instantly without going through a limbo region where neither Canon nor my profiles are valid.

As to hat suggestions, I did not see any real hard precipitation at all. It either looked gelatinous or a murky web that was soft but always reversible. Maybe the aspect that the top was blocked made no movement possible made it seem like it was solid but maybe it was not.

Toolman had it happen to him and he cleared it with windex in one go.

 

[trashguy9]

So if I flush out some CLI-8 carts that I have laying around and attach a CLI-42Y chip, am I good to go?

Also, Mike/mikling, are those "refurbished" carts you are selling OEM carts? They don't look it, or you just changed the labels?

Thanks,
Larry

 

[mikling]

So if I flush out some CLI-8 carts that I have laying around and attach a CLI-42Y chip, am I good to go?

Also, Mike/mikling, are those "refurbished" carts you are selling OEM carts? They don't look it, or you just changed the labels?

Thanks,
Larry

I add a label over the original CLI-8 label make it look better. Under the label could be a black, cyan magenta etc. but it does not matter since it is the chip that specs the color. I only deal with OEM but I have to change that motto with the 250/251 I will be carrying. Took three sets to find one that works well so far.

Yes, use a cleaned out CLI-8 and transfer the chip and you're good to go. The flush on the CLI-8 does not have to be perfect, as long as you use a yellow CLI-8. If you use a black CLI-8 you should get all the black ink out before filling with yellow as that black will swamp the incoming yellow.

 

[mikling]

What happened to Hat is that he did not realize that water was the culprit or further dilution was the problem and kept going with water after it.
Hat, maybe you should try using some automatic dishwashing detergent mixed with water, filter, it and then try dripping it on the inlet port until there is some movement. The same solution will wash off the sponge white but be careful with it. It is harsh on your hands.

 

[stratman]

About the instant switch before hat question. Yes, I would tend to agree however, I had the CLI-42Y and then the Refill ink and vice versa for many operations back and forth without problems.
As long as we go straight from the CLI42Y in the printhead into the Refill ink in one go, no problems at all. Remember that multiple refills are done without any mishap because the remaining CLI42Y concentration is still high enough to not cause a problem. As the concentration continues to fall with more refills, then we reach a critical phase where the reaction starts.

So, using the new OEM Yellow supplied with the printer ONCE and then use a thoroughly flushed CLI-8 cartridge refilled with Yellow with the chip swap is the recommended way?

If the OEM yellow is removed initially then neither Canon ICCs nor my ICCs would hold.

Unless the user, completely switches over ALL the inks to refill inks, retains the chips and sells off the full Canon tanks to someone who really wants the archival nature of the OEM ink. This sale will likely more than pay for a set of tanks and resetter for the person using OEM inks. A win win on both ends.

Prospective users whose end goal is to refill should entertain that suggestion above. The benefit is that they get to use the provided ICC profiles and get well balanced photos instantly without going through a limbo region where neither Canon nor my profiles are valid.

The key to this yellow jello issue (or mellow yellow jello issue for 60's icon fotofreak) is either:

1) only use only all OEM inkset along with Canon's OEM ICC printer profile - very costly,

2) use only OEM yellow with all other catridges containing third party refill inks and do your own ICC printer profile - increased cost,

3) Switch to all third party ink from Precision Colors / Octoinkjet / Favorite Supplier of Quality Ink after using up the OEM Yellow cartridge and use Mikling's ICC printer profile - most thrifty savings.