How large of a thread can the original refill hole support

Osage

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Having bought two hobbicolor refill kits for two printers---with no spare cartridges bought-------I now look to my supply of OEM cartridges and some used bulkinkjetcarts.com to provide one or more replacement sets of cartridges.

Step one seems to be to create a new ink inlet hole. I note that there is already a 16 page thread on the subject of sealing the ink inlet hole--be it by tape, some sort of a plug, hot melt glue, or screw thread.

Being conversant with screw threads as something I understand in making in metal, I would like to try the same in the plastic of a BCI-3&6 cartridge. While a straight screw thread--unlike its tapered counterpart the pipe thread-- is not designed to seal air tight by thread alone-------but a tight fitting O-ring provides that seal part.

I do note that a self taping #6 pan head stainless sheet metal screw seems favored by many, I note my local hardware does not carry those----but they do carry #8.

I also see that some try tapping 6-32 and one poster even advocated 10-32. I have just two fears on that------While a 32 tpi is a decent depth of thread on metal, its awful small on plastic. The other question is is there enough meat on the walls of the original fill hole of a canon or non-oem cartridge to support a 10-32 thread or the possibly better 10-24?--------but if I can use a self taping #8 stainless steel pan head screw I probably will.

One advantage of cutting my own thread is that I own a drill press, a handy vice,
a supply of taps, and can thus insure that the thread I cut is very close to perpendicular with the top plane of the cartridge------and have not figured out a method to hold a self tapping pan head screw to insure that same degree of perpendicular.

The other advantage to a cut thread is that I can also use nylon screws and maybe have a better screw head selection.

Sorry for the leagthy post, just trying to avoid errors and not have to resort to mail order parts.-------why experiment when others already have?
 

drc023

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I'm the one who uses 10-32 nylon screws. See the following thread for pictures of cheap third party cartridges which have been threaded for use with the screws. http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=433
To cover a few of the concerns you mentioned in the original post. The threads were cut with a 10-32 tap. The original fill hole had a silicone sealing plug which I removed. Then I used a drill bit to enlarge the hole for the 10-32 tap (which wasn't necessary). I got smart and chucked the tap into a cordless drill and simply cut threads the easy way since the cordless drill has forward and reverse rotation. Even after enlarging the fill hole for the larger diameter screw, there is still sufficient plastic for a strong seal. One of the advantages of using the fill hole is that there is much more surface area (got to hold that original plug somehow) than in a different area on top. The combination of soft plastic ink tanks and nylon screw threads makes for a very positive seal. The screws in the photos have o-rings which are there only as insurance. The screws don't even need to be tightened down to provide an adequate seal.

The other thing to note is that all that was done prior to my becoming a customer of HobbiColors. I highly recommend HC because of the virgin ink tanks don't pose a problem of inferior ink which might be (although unlikely) present in a cheap third party ink tank such as the ones shown in the above thread. With HC you get a good quality ink tank, excellent ink, great service and really low prices. The one disadvantage to the HC tanks is the small screw for sealing the fill hole is a little difficult to handle if you have larger hands. The 1/2" 10-32 screw is much easier to use.
 

Osage

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Thank you drc023 for your responce,

It will be a week or so before I get conviently close to the local hardware store and I will see what they have in stock to best meet my needs.

Thanks.
 

Osage

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Will note I was in Walmart to day, they had 13 1/2 inch long #8 stainless steel pan head sheetmetal screws for $1.48------but not an O-ring in the entire store. But I did get some #0 O-rings at a nearby auto store. I note the #0 zize O-ring is so small that it must be twisted up the thread and then fit tightly over the shank with no danger excessive pressure could allow it to squeeze out under the screw head. Recommended pilot drill size was 1/8" so I drillled out a few empty cartridges I had laying around.

Was very happy with the feel of things-----without exerting much pressure on the threads a good half a turn after O-ring contact seemed to tightly compress the O ring againt the top surface of the cartridge.

I went ahead and refilled one recently depleted cartridge but will probably flush some of the others to get some possibly over dried ink out of the sponge on the set of cartridges that have been depleted for a longer time.

Will eventually get to a decently equipped hardware store and see what I find.---but can report # 8 pan head sheetmetal screws may be even better than the #6 size I can't seem to find locally.
 

drc023

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Any hardware store I've ever been to has a specialty fastener/parts assortment - usually in plastic pull out trays. Home Depot has an even larger section. All of them have stainless, nylon and brass screws and o-ring assortments.
 

fotofreek

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Osage - I have some carts with #8 screws and they work fine. If you have trouble finding the orings for them email me.
 

on30trainman

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I found both 8-32 1/2" stainless steel pan-head screws (hardware aisle) and #0 O-Rings (plumbing department) at the local Home Depots. About $1 each for 6 screws and 10 O-Rings. I cut the screws down to about 1/4" by threading on two nuts and cutting the remaining screw off with a hacksaw. Removed one nut and cleaned the end of the cut with a file. The nuts clean up any burrs as they are removed. I just used one the the uncut screws to make threads in the cartridge where I had removed the plastic sealing balls from empty Canon cartridges. I removed the ball by drilling a hole into the ball with a small diameter drill in a pin vise. When I had drilled about half way into the ball I threaded a small self tapping screw (#2 or so) into the hole and pulled the ball out. Didn't want to just push the ball into the cartridge. The screw with the O-Ring looks like it will provide a good seal. But I still like the Hobbicolor cartridges - just wanted to see if I could reuse some empty Canon's I had around.

Steve W.
 

Osage

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I still have not try drilling and tapping a machine thread---but sure have added to my supply of pan head stainless sheet metal screws in size #6 and #8--plus o-rings with one visit to home debot. Plus a local lumberyard happened to have 6-32 nylon screws with a head much bigger than the hobbicolor kind. The bigger city always beats the one hourse town on variety.

All I needed was one spare set of cartridges for two similar printers--now I got the makings for three spare sets to augument the hobbicolor cartridges. Problems problems problems.
 

drc023

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If you look at this thread you'll see photos of cartridges converted to use nylon screws.
http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=433

We tend to obsess over the right/wrong ways of refilling Canon BCI-3/6 tanks, but in reality the ink tank is nothing more than a plastic container. A hole can be made anywhere on the reservoir side and ink injected through the opening. A proper seal over the opening completes the process. Prior to using the 10-32 nylon screw setup described in the above link, I used a method where I made a small hole, about 1/16" or so, near the top on the flat side of the reservoir. Duct tape was used to seal the opening. It worked fine, but it was ugly and took more time than using nylon screws.
 

hpnetserver

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A small hole is easier to seal if you do not use screws. Even if you use screws start with a small one. If the thread is worn out you can always rethread it one size larger next. You may be right. Proably shouldn't overlooked the size issue. Maybe the thread won't wear out easily. My hobbicolors cartridges seem all holding up the thread fine so far.
 

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