Hello, new here.

[websnail]

Hmm... perhaps I should do a little video of the process of removing the fill ball because, in all seriousness, I've no idea why it's being touted as a difficult process.

Maybe it's because an Awl makes the whole thing relatively simple or possibly I've gotten practiced at it but for what it's worth here's my process.

1. Excising the label with a sharp stanley knife blade should be easy enough if you're patient
2. (Optional) Heat the awl point with steam from a kettle
3. Push the awl into the ball (being careful not to slip and stab yourself!)
4. (If you heated the Awl) Wait for the awl to cool* down
5. Lever the ball out.


Like I said perhaps I'll sort a video on the whole process when I get 5 minutes to think...

 

[fotofreek]

Hmm... perhaps I should do a little video of the process of removing the fill ball because, in all seriousness, I've no idea why it's being touted as a difficult process.

Maybe it's because an Awl makes the whole thing relatively simple or possibly I've gotten practiced at it but for what it's worth here's my process.

1. Excising the label with a sharp stanley knife blade should be easy enough if you're patient
2. (Optional) Heat the awl point with steam from a kettle
3. Push the awl into the ball (being careful not to slip and stab yourself!)
4. (If you heated the Awl) Wait for the awl to cool* down
5. Lever the ball out.

Same basic technique, slightly different tools. I've had an exacto knife around for over 40 years. The double edged pointed blade that is shaped like a spear head is perfect for removing only the part of the label that is over the ball. The point of the blade is inserted in the groove around the ball, zipped around, and the ball is exposed. No need to cut any more of the label than that. I hold a staightened paper clip in a hemostat (small plier works too), heat the end of the wire red hot over a gas stove flame, and plunge it into the ball to make a starter hole. I then screw in a small screw-eye until the ball starts to turn. The ball is then easily removed. Except for making the starter hole with a really hot piece of wire, this is the same instruction that comes from Mke at Precision Colors. I guess a push pin would work, but unless it is heated it is difficult to get the starter hole going as the ball is quite hard.

An awl would be easy as well but I would probably still heat it on the flame. Since I don't want to take the temper out of the tip of an awl, the paper cllip works for me.

 

[jtoolman]

Another method is to heat a small pointy screw. Holding with needle nose pliers over the exposed fill hole, screw it a few turns into the ball. It
will screw itself into the ball because it's a bit hot. Let it cool and pull the screw and ball right out. I can do one 2 per minute.
You now have the perfect original hole which will absolutely seal perfectly with a common plug.
Rjetteck sell replacement balls if you insist on replicating the original seal. Otherwise a normal plug will suffice.

Joe

 

[fotofreek]

Another method is to heat a small pointy screw. Holding with needle nose pliers over the exposed fill hole, screw it a few turns into the ball. It
will screw itself into the ball because it's a bit hot. Let it cool and pull the screw and ball right out. I can do one 2 per minute.
You now have the perfect original hole which will absolutely seal perfectly with a common plug.
Rjetteck sell replacement balls if you insist on replicating the original seal. Otherwise a normal plug will suffice.

Joe

Joe - good idea - one step less than mine.