Dual two color embed into an embossed / embedded text in a 3D Print?

[Nifty]

Well, I got over my fear of filament swapping (my new dry-box makes it easier since I have 2 spools loaded up at the same time) and did two tests:

I used the "Change Filament" option on the CR-10 and it worked really well!

(This custom Nameplate Generator thing)

 

[Nifty]

FYI, I'm going to try this out next time, so instead of watching the layer lines like a hawk, I can program in the pause, let the code cause the pause, and then change the filament myself!

 

[The Hat]

@Nifty you found a use for the pause button, but this handy hint has its drawbacks and you have only found the first one..

https://www.printerknowledge.com/th...ge-filament-purple-to-pink.12808/#post-110788

 

[Nifty]

FYI, I'm going to try this out next time, so instead of watching the layer lines like a hawk, I can program in the pause, let the code cause the pause, and then change the filament myself!

FYI: I haven't had any success with this method. When I print direct from CURA using USB, it completely ignores the pause-at-height command, but when I print from an SD card, it stops at the height, but nothing I can do will get it to resume.



So, I'm back to just watching the print and manually hitting the "change filament" menu item at the right layer height.

 

[The Hat]

At least using that method you’re in control, I don’t use the change filament button, I just hit the pause button and pull the filament out and insert the next one and then hit resume, I’ve not had any trouble doing this so far..

P.S. You can time how long it will take to get to the changeover point by seeing how long it takes to print the first 1 mm height, it doesn’t haven’t to be exact, because an extra layer or two won’t be noticeable...

 

[Nifty]

I don’t use the change filament button, I just hit the pause button and pull the filament out and insert the next one and then hit resume, I’ve not had any trouble doing this so far..

I could do that, but I like to move the nozzle and push out any remaining previous color so I have a clean change-over. Also, pausing has sometimes left a divit from the hot nozzle resting there and/or a blob of filament. Pros and cons to both processes I guess.

You can time how long it will take to get to the changeover point by seeing how long it takes to print the first 1 mm height, it doesn’t haven’t to be exact, because an extra layer or two won’t be noticeable

Yup! I use a combination of viewing the exact layer in CURA and then watching the mm height on the display.

 

[Nifty]

I've been having fun with dual-color printing out of a single nozzle. It's a bit of extra work, but I've had good results (like with my trophy project here: https://www.printerknowledge.com/threads/custom-designed-3d-printed-chicken-trophy-award.12749/ )

I just watched this video with yet another clever method for dual color lettering! I might have to give it a try!

 

[The Hat]

I just watched this video with yet another clever method for dual color lettering! I might have to give it a try!

I was studying this method of embedding a second colour into a project, and taught maybe it might be a good way of introducing text into your projects without having to stand over your printer while it’s printing.

For me I would have to experiment heavily first because my CURA Slicer doesn’t support (Z Hop), so I would have to practice quite a bit to get the correct setting in the new CURA that suited me before I could try to attempt anything in two colour.

Right now I’m in the middle of everything, one printer down, another in the middle of a complete upgrade and the third that is too small to finish out making the parts for my Lamp Standard, it did do all the smaller bits but now I’m stuck again.

I will have to revisit this two colour idea later in the year when things get back to normal, whatever normal is anymore, I can already see a snag with this method, it can’t print more than two colours.. I’ll put it on my bucket list…