Differences between dye/pigment technologies

[Paul Verizzo]

I would love to see a test like that done but unfortunately I don’t have many of the items mentioned, so I‘ll have to decline on this one.

But if some kind sole would send me a Pro 100 with a set of new OEM CLl-42 carts, a set filled with I.S. inks and a set filled with OCP inks then I’d gladly carry out every test known to man and a few that aren’t.

P.S. O’ I forgot I’d also need a box of OEM photo paper and a profile to match if necessary, I do have the Sihl paper dough..

Wait! You forgot to request lower latitude bright sunshine! Not so much, I'm guessing in "The Garden County", Ireland. While I haven't and can't and won't run test with non-OEM inks, I have run a 42 vs 8 test. I'll scan and post today, probably. The good news is that the 42 inks fade about half as fast, that's open to UV and air.

 

[Paul Verizzo]

well, in the Florida sunshine you shouldn't ignore the impact of ozone fading, so laminating, overcoating etc is probably as much an ozone barrier as an UV shield. And please be aware that it's not just the UV part of the radiation, the blue visible part of the light contributes to the fading as well, and that's something you wouldn't want to filter away. The difficulty is to separate those effects in these tests when you are not able to measure any of those at all. But comparative tests will give at least some information which shield works better than another. And when you study the WIR test results you'll find comments that high humidity in combination with microporous papers will make the situation worse , so the laminating , coating may not just protect against ozone but as well against high humidity, and don't forget the temperature......so have fun with your tests in the Florida sunshine.....

I'm having lots of fun. And I'm aware of the fading of visible light. A good example is a wall in what is called the Florida Room here. A half century of paintings hung on the wood paneled wall. Removed, and the wood has obviously faded a great deal. The wall never receives direct sunlight, even at this time of the year.

As to humidity, I posted this recently, about how much water can be in your photo paper: http://www.printerknowledge.com/threads/the-water-in-your-photo-paper.9644/

.61 grams in a sheet of heavy, uncoated paper!

 

[Ink stained Fingers]

O.k., we are getting some results already. And I did a quick and simple test, printed CMYK color bars and folded the paper (plain paper) halfway and put the prints together with a pigment ink print for reference/comparison on my balkony, recessed and away enough from direct rain. After ten days my fast fade no name ink set shows the first signs of fading - cyan first . There is probably not much ozone in the winter here, overcast all the time, 2 deg C , high rel. humidity. In the summer, with some more sun, UV and ozon I'll try and test the Epson gloss optimizer if that does any good on microporous paper to reduce the ozone impact, with dye inks, non standard, but that may be more practical in some case than laminating coating spraying etc.