Clean print head what do you use?

Smile

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Hi, I use 70% or more isprpyl ahcohol. After cleaning I put the head on paper towels to suck the alcohol and put small ink drops in every ink inlet on the head. This way I restore the colors and then when assembled works just fine.

What do you use?
 

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I also forgot to mention I tired to use negatively charged water, works very well, too. It's also very clean as in the process called water ionization removes al contaminants from it. It very well used for soaking print-head for a few hours or overnight if needed.
 

ghwellsjr

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Are you cleaning a removable print head like is used in many Canon printers or the print head that is built into a cartridge? Are you cleaning it because it is clogged or just to prevent clogs or because you want to get rid of some potential debris?

You might be interested in this link which warns against alcohol and suggests using ammonia:

http://www.outofinkandtoner.com.au/articles/article37.htm

But to answer your question, I use ammonia to clean ink out of an empty cartridge and then I fill it with a cleaning solution from inkjetsaver.com which I then use to clean a print head. I made one for each of my five different cartridges that my print head uses. I have never had a clog on the dye based nozzles but it has successfully cleared up a clog on the black pigment nozzles.

[NOTE: I have learned my lesson about using ammonia. I now use just Windex (with ammonia). Read the following link for more information:

http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=1396
]
 

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Such a good idea that I keep putting off. I really should take a set of cartridges, empty and clean them (or get blanks) and fill them with a cleaning solution. I could use these for preventative maintainance or trouble shooting / solving. I wonder if putting a tiny bit of food dye in the solution would help me with troubleshooting?
 

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ghwellsjr said:
Are you cleaning a removable print head like is used in many Canon printers or the print head that is built into a cartridge? Are you cleaning it because it is clogged or just to prevent clogs or because you want to get rid of some potential debri?

You might be interested in this link which warns against alcohol and suggests using ammonia:

http://www.outofinkandtoner.com.au/articles/article37.htm

But to answer your question, I use ammonia to clean ink out of an empty cartridge and then I fill it with a cleaning solution from inkjetsaver.com which I then use to clean a print head. I made one for each of my five different cartridges that my print head uses. I have never had a clog on the dye based nozzles but it has successfully cleared up a clog on the black pigment nozzles.
I'm cleaning a removable print head for my i965 the Photo cyan has a few clogged nozzles, other colors are fine, Cleaned with 70% isopropyl alcohol for 30min or so, no deal. Then tried ionized water (ph-10) 50% with window cleaner like (windex) 50%.
Took a syringe with a small hose and cleaned it, then washed it with ionized water only. And now let it soke in ionized water only for 24hrs. Will finish another clean today. And post the results :)

BTW every color channel I clean gets me this yellow color on the sponge why is that? I mean I clean black color, magenta, its still gets yellow on the sponge?
 

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Folks, I'm only a newbie here so I hesitate to post this for fear of being thought rude. Nevertheless, long ago, when I was a youngun, I took a degree in physics. When I read here that some of you were using "ionized water" a flag went up. As I recalled, there couldn't be such a thing. What are these people talking about? A quick Google, and my suspicions were confirmed. Here is a bit of the science of the matter:

"Pure water consists almost entirely of H2O molecules loosely bound in a network-like structure in which individual molecules are constantly changing partners. Water molecules exhibit a very slight tendency to dissociate ("ionize") into hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions:

H2O → H+ + OH

but the extent of this reaction is severely limited by the fact that the reverse of this reaction is much more rapid, so that on the average, only about one out of ten million H2O molecules is dissociated. No electrical device or chemical additive is capable of increasing these ion concentrations in pure water above this very minute level which is so small that for most practical purposes pure water can be considered to be ion-free, as evidenced by the fact that it will not conduct an electric current."

This reference is from http://www.chem1.com/CQ/ionbunk.html. I am not a fan of debunkers. But on the other hand, I don't like to waste my money or see my friends wasting theirs. This is nothing to feel badly about. The average person can hardly be expected to know anything about ionization. Take this info for whatever it is worth to you.
 

ghwellsjr

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Smile, is the yellow color right at the outlet port and nowhere else? Is it a bright yellow, the same as the yellow ink? Or is it a faded yellow? Does it disappear after you use the printer for awhile?

I'm thinking that maybe some water or cleaning solution has leaked up from the print head into the cart and diluted the ink so that it looks a faded yellow. You can get the same result by simply allowing some water to get on the outlet port of a removed cartridge.
 

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mfseeker said:
Folks, I'm only a newbie here so I hesitate to post this for fear of being thought rude. Nevertheless, long ago, when I was a youngun, I took a degree in physics. When I read here that some of you were using "ionized water" a flag went up. As I recalled, there couldn't be such a thing. What are these people talking about? A quick Google, and my suspicions were confirmed. Here is a bit of the science of the matter:

"Pure water consists almost entirely of H2O molecules loosely bound in a network-like structure in which individual molecules are constantly changing partners. Water molecules exhibit a very slight tendency to dissociate ("ionize") into hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions:

H2O → H+ + OH–

but the extent of this reaction is severely limited by the fact that the reverse of this reaction is much more rapid, so that on the average, only about one out of ten million H2O molecules is dissociated. No electrical device or chemical additive is capable of increasing these ion concentrations in pure water above this very minute level which is so small that for most practical purposes pure water can be considered to be ion-free, as evidenced by the fact that it will not conduct an electric current."

This reference is from http://www.chem1.com/CQ/ionbunk.html. I am not a fan of debunkers. But on the other hand, I don't like to waste my money or see my friends wasting theirs. This is nothing to feel badly about. The average person can hardly be expected to know anything about ionization. Take this info for whatever it is worth to you.
I wrote ionized because that is what it's called most of the time, but the water is made using Electrolysis, at the positive electrode acidic. Clean from ontanminants. If prepared with a machine like this http://www.waterelectrolyzer.com/en/purpose/ptv-A
It really works, I mean it's more than acidic water if you drink it you will sleep better, no drug can do this better and this is merely water. I know all those machines called "snake on the tap" age not real and do not work.

But lets not get off the topic here.
 

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ghwellsjr said:
Smile, is the yellow color right at the outlet port and nowhere else? Is it a bright yellow, the same as the yellow ink? Or is it a faded yellow? Does it disappear after you use the printer for awhile?

I'm thinking that maybe some water or cleaning solution has leaked up from the print head into the cart and diluted the ink so that it looks a faded yellow. You can get the same result by simply allowing some water to get on the outlet port of a removed cartridge.
It was a reaction fron the ionized water and the sponge, for some reason it will turn yellow. The cleaning gave not results, I'm going to get somea ammonia and clean with it. Will post back.
 
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