I tried to post this before, but somehow, it didnt take. This is the second try.
After non-use for a month, my Pro9000 II nozzle checks failed and several normal and deep cleaning cycles didnt help the problem. I concluded that the print head was clogged and decided to use water, Windex with ammonia, and 91% alcohol to get the job done. I didnt have the Windex and alcohol on hand and needed to wait overnight before I could complete the work.
I come from an engineering background with lots of design experience for many different type problems. I decided that the common workflow involving head cleaning can be greatly improved and the work can be done in a much shorter time than is currently reported if the basic problem with head clogging is defined and new methods created to improve the results.
The Problem
Ink cant be ejected from the print head correctly. That may be due to the ink drying up completely or greatly increasing in viscosity.
The Solution
Get all the damaged ink out of the print head.
Most everyone agrees with those two assumptions, and there is general agreement that the solution requires one or more fluids to pass through the print head to get the bad stuff out. Using current methods, passing any fluid through a print head with some completely dried ink is a very large problem. What we need is a tool to force fluid through a clogged print head. I designed and built such a tool. I call it the Print Head Pump and refer to it as PHP. In what follows, I take you through the steps to make a PHP and how it operated and the results.
Heres a picture of the PHP: Correction! I get an error message saying I can't post an image. That makes this thread about dead. I don't think I'll try again! Now i know why my first post failed!
You can see that it is just a normal 10ML syringe with a short piece of 1/4" tubing attached to the end. The tubing makes a perfect around the print head inlet pad. In practice you hold and operate the PHP in one hand, and hold the print head in the other hand.
Construction Details
1.1 The plastic tubing should long enough to reach the inlet pads, but short enough so that the tube doesnt deform in use. Youll be putting pressure on it, and it must not deform.
1.2 On most syringes, including mine, the tubing makes a loose fit on the syringe outlet. The connection between the tube and the syringe must be air tight. I used normal sewing thread and procedures from my fly fishing fly tying days to bind and constrict the tube to the syringe outlet. When finished, clear finger nail polish was applied to the binding to keep it in place.
A small wire tie will work just as well for the binding if the thread thing gives you a problem. It will just have more bulk.
1.3 The end of the tube that will connect the print head must be cut square because it must make a good seal with the print head.
Procedures and Results
2.1 Remember, I had to wait overnight to get all the supplies to complete the job. While waiting, I washed the print head throughly with hot running water from the faucet. I washed it until no color could be seen in the discharge. Then I soaked it overnight while waiting for the next step. It was during that wait that I conceived, designed, and built the PHP.
2.2 With the PHP and print head in hand(s), I began pushing clear warm water through each print head inlet pad. Color, and a lot of it, came from the output of each print head pad. Each load of the PHP was about 5ML and it took five or six loads for each pad before the discharge ran completely clear. All that washing and soaking did not do the job.
2.3 Trying to make sure to get all the bad stuff out, I used the PHP and Windex with the ammonia for several loads on each pad. Color was never seen in the discharge from any pad from the first load to the last.
2.4 I used the alcohol to hasten the drying steps. I dried the print head as much as possible and then shook it to get as much liquid from the print head passages as possible. Then I used the PHP and put about 5ML of alcohol through each pad. No color ever showed in any of the discharges from any pad.
2.5 After wiping and patting the print head with paper towels, I used my wifes hear drier for about 5 minutes to complete the drying job.
2.6 Reinstalled the print head and print cartridges. Ran a print head check. Perfect.
2.7 Printed the Adobe ColorFile test file. Perfect.
2.8 Ran the head alignment routine.
2.9 Prints are great and the color is as fantastic as the Pro9000 II has always produced.
Conclusions
3.1 Forcing the fluid of your choice through a clogged print head with the PHP will clear it up in short order.
3.2 For it to work, there must be a good seal between the end of the PHP and the print head hard surface. You will know if you have a good seal if you feel resistance when you depress the syringe plunger. No resistance, no seal, no flow through print head, no head cleaning.
3.3 The entire process from removing the cartridges and print head from the printer to reinstalling them is less than 30 minutes. It is so short that Ill not run normal or deep cleaning cycles again when the nozzle check shows a problem.
3.4 The process is so short that it may be considered as a normal procedure on some scheduled basis, like every two weeks. It might well be used before any large printing job.
3.5 It may turn out that nothing but clear water is necessary when using the PHP, and the washing phase can stop after 2.2 above. Ill test that next time to find out.
3.5 You can build the PHP in less than 20 minutes and the price of a syringe and a little bit of clear plastic tubing, but if you would like to buy them from me, you can get one for just $150.00 plus shipping.
Good Luck!
Wil
After non-use for a month, my Pro9000 II nozzle checks failed and several normal and deep cleaning cycles didnt help the problem. I concluded that the print head was clogged and decided to use water, Windex with ammonia, and 91% alcohol to get the job done. I didnt have the Windex and alcohol on hand and needed to wait overnight before I could complete the work.
I come from an engineering background with lots of design experience for many different type problems. I decided that the common workflow involving head cleaning can be greatly improved and the work can be done in a much shorter time than is currently reported if the basic problem with head clogging is defined and new methods created to improve the results.
The Problem
Ink cant be ejected from the print head correctly. That may be due to the ink drying up completely or greatly increasing in viscosity.
The Solution
Get all the damaged ink out of the print head.
Most everyone agrees with those two assumptions, and there is general agreement that the solution requires one or more fluids to pass through the print head to get the bad stuff out. Using current methods, passing any fluid through a print head with some completely dried ink is a very large problem. What we need is a tool to force fluid through a clogged print head. I designed and built such a tool. I call it the Print Head Pump and refer to it as PHP. In what follows, I take you through the steps to make a PHP and how it operated and the results.
Heres a picture of the PHP: Correction! I get an error message saying I can't post an image. That makes this thread about dead. I don't think I'll try again! Now i know why my first post failed!
You can see that it is just a normal 10ML syringe with a short piece of 1/4" tubing attached to the end. The tubing makes a perfect around the print head inlet pad. In practice you hold and operate the PHP in one hand, and hold the print head in the other hand.
Construction Details
1.1 The plastic tubing should long enough to reach the inlet pads, but short enough so that the tube doesnt deform in use. Youll be putting pressure on it, and it must not deform.
1.2 On most syringes, including mine, the tubing makes a loose fit on the syringe outlet. The connection between the tube and the syringe must be air tight. I used normal sewing thread and procedures from my fly fishing fly tying days to bind and constrict the tube to the syringe outlet. When finished, clear finger nail polish was applied to the binding to keep it in place.
A small wire tie will work just as well for the binding if the thread thing gives you a problem. It will just have more bulk.
1.3 The end of the tube that will connect the print head must be cut square because it must make a good seal with the print head.
Procedures and Results
2.1 Remember, I had to wait overnight to get all the supplies to complete the job. While waiting, I washed the print head throughly with hot running water from the faucet. I washed it until no color could be seen in the discharge. Then I soaked it overnight while waiting for the next step. It was during that wait that I conceived, designed, and built the PHP.
2.2 With the PHP and print head in hand(s), I began pushing clear warm water through each print head inlet pad. Color, and a lot of it, came from the output of each print head pad. Each load of the PHP was about 5ML and it took five or six loads for each pad before the discharge ran completely clear. All that washing and soaking did not do the job.
2.3 Trying to make sure to get all the bad stuff out, I used the PHP and Windex with the ammonia for several loads on each pad. Color was never seen in the discharge from any pad from the first load to the last.
2.4 I used the alcohol to hasten the drying steps. I dried the print head as much as possible and then shook it to get as much liquid from the print head passages as possible. Then I used the PHP and put about 5ML of alcohol through each pad. No color ever showed in any of the discharges from any pad.
2.5 After wiping and patting the print head with paper towels, I used my wifes hear drier for about 5 minutes to complete the drying job.
2.6 Reinstalled the print head and print cartridges. Ran a print head check. Perfect.
2.7 Printed the Adobe ColorFile test file. Perfect.
2.8 Ran the head alignment routine.
2.9 Prints are great and the color is as fantastic as the Pro9000 II has always produced.
Conclusions
3.1 Forcing the fluid of your choice through a clogged print head with the PHP will clear it up in short order.
3.2 For it to work, there must be a good seal between the end of the PHP and the print head hard surface. You will know if you have a good seal if you feel resistance when you depress the syringe plunger. No resistance, no seal, no flow through print head, no head cleaning.
3.3 The entire process from removing the cartridges and print head from the printer to reinstalling them is less than 30 minutes. It is so short that Ill not run normal or deep cleaning cycles again when the nozzle check shows a problem.
3.4 The process is so short that it may be considered as a normal procedure on some scheduled basis, like every two weeks. It might well be used before any large printing job.
3.5 It may turn out that nothing but clear water is necessary when using the PHP, and the washing phase can stop after 2.2 above. Ill test that next time to find out.
3.5 You can build the PHP in less than 20 minutes and the price of a syringe and a little bit of clear plastic tubing, but if you would like to buy them from me, you can get one for just $150.00 plus shipping.
Good Luck!
Wil
. BUT it was with a print head under warranty? and I had another good print head I had gotteh for free so I really had nothing to lose. One addition I added was a piece of 3/8 i.d x 1/2 o.d. for the pigment screen, and was very carefull with the cleaning. What can I say, today I set up a garden sprayer and clips for a power flush, I just like more power!
