Bronzing problem solved on the Pro 9500

jtoolman

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Ok, due to the fact that the GO that is available out there for us to do this post treament with is NOT the glossiest Gloss Optimizer in the first place. Only OEM is. You will not IMPROVE on the current gloss of certain papers. So for instance, on Kirland or Epson Ultra Glossy, you do not improve or add to the inherent gloss odf those papers. You actually loose some of the gloss.

The whole and only reason in performing this secondary post treatment is to simply try to diminish or completely eliminate the Bronzing and Gloss Differential that Pigment inks produce on some papers.

Depending of the paper, the detrimental effects of pigment inks will vary.

GO application simply evens out the surface as some colors or densities will show different levels of gloss and or Bronzing.

Example, on glossy papers it actually reduces the over all gloss but produces a perfectly even gloss which is the goal here.

It is not intended to miraculously bring up lower quality papers like Epson Photo gloss and make then look like Ultra Gloss. This is not going to be the case.

I never print important images on Glossy papers unless I am just making 4x6 prints to give away.

WHen I print important images I tend to print them on high end matte or art type paers and when I need a bit of shhen them I will choose a nice satin, smooth surface paper. ANd it is on these types of surfaces that this method will work best. In the case of lusters and satin papers it will add gloss and produces a gorgeous finish.

Different papers will also react differently to the application. Some papers will look glossier than others. But the only goal here is to even out the visual problems that some pigment inks produce on some papers with sheen.
 

jtoolman

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To Mikling ( Mike )
I recieved the GO sample today! THANK YOU!

Question: Is this code # intended for use on the Canon printer or is it compatible with Epson's R1900 / R2000 ink set?

I plan to test it this weekend and will report anything I find out.

Joe
 

Fenrir Enterprises

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Well my main question that I think didn't get through is how much does it "change" things. If I use a luster or satin paper I don't necessarily want it to be glossier. Or change the look of a very expensive paper like faux metallic. I'm kind of on the fence about whether or not to use pigment or dye inks on these kinds of papers... dye won't change the look or bronze, but also won't have the longevity.
 

rodbam

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The Optimiser should make the dye inks last a lot longer as it puts a protective coating over the ink, much like putting a dye ink print behind glass for many decades of life. As Jose just said we are using the optimizer to get rid of the gloss differential on Pigments inks.
From Jose's earlier posts the Optimiser has no detrimental affects on how the print looks & the print looks the same if not better than before applying the Optimizer coat when used on Satin or Luster type papers but the Optimiser will dull the finish on a very glossy paper.
 

jtoolman

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Fenrir Enterprises said:
Well my main question that I think didn't get through is how much does it "change" things. If I use a luster or satin paper I don't necessarily want it to be glossier. Or change the look of a very expensive paper like faux metallic. I'm kind of on the fence about whether or not to use pigment or dye inks on these kinds of papers... dye won't change the look or bronze, but also won't have the longevity.
You can apply MORE or LESS GO ( with my dedicated 1400 running through the QuadTone Rip ) depending depending on the color channel values for each CURVE. So since this is 100000000% experimantal procedure, you simply "Experiment" and find which value serves each paper the best. Not enough, and you might still see the effects of pigment on papers with sheen. Too much and you will be altering the paper's inherent sheen.
Of course DYE inks will always look better on metallic glossy papers. I would never use pigment inks on Metallic papers. In fact, if I am not mistaken, Red River and other makers recommend you print on these papers with DYE inks.

One effect that has not been discussed is the actual varying thinesses of inks being laid on the paper surface. Since Pigment sits on to of mpst paper surfaces, dense areas will actually have a measurable thicker cross section and areas with no ink will not. This weird little effect will sometimes appear on some papers and it looks like the image has been edged on to the surface. GO will "FILL" those differences and create an even surface. I know that really getting a bit too deep but it does exist.

This technique is SIMPLY and ONLY to be used to cancel the effects of non OEM pigment inks on papers with sheen and not to alter the original paper.
If you are using OEM inks you may not even need this psot treatment.
 

mikling

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I suspect you can alter the original paper as well as carried out by Canon 7600 and ix7000. Here apparently a roller does the trick!
 

The Hat

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jtoolman said:
To Mikling ( Mike )
I recieved the GO sample today! THANK YOU!

Question: Is this code # intended for use on the Canon printer or is it compatible with Epson's R1900 / R2000 ink set?

I plan to test it this weekend and will report anything I find out.

Joe
Joe,

I sent you Mike's code for Canon I.S. GO a couple of week ago, check to see if they are the same,
that should confirm the differences for both..:)
 

mikling

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It is meant for the Canon, If used on the R1900/2000 it might possibly drip out of the Epson printhead over time.
 

The Hat

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Rod any sign of your order of GO yet, is it coming by boat or camel.. :gig
 

rodbam

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The Roo delivered it last week & I have been experimenting. As I'm just a practical type bloke my experiments tend to go around in circles until I don't know if I'm Arthur or Martha.
The GO is very easy to use & it only takes a couple of A4 prints of 75% black & the GO cart is printing clear & also when I put the MBK back in only two A4 prints has it back to normal. On the good Canon gloss & luster paper the improvement in gloss differential is about 80% & it sort of matches the OEM inks for gloss differential on the same paper.
My results so far with my cheap glossy paper I use which prints really well on the 9000 are not so good so I'm trying to work out if adding 2, 3 or 4 coats of GO will make the cheap paper work. What I'm calling cheap is I pay $31 for 20 sheets of A3. I have also used the GO to coat a print from the 9000 on the cheap paper to see if it helps to slow down the fading, my 9000 prints on the cheap paper start fading quite fast & is very visible after about 4 weeks hung naked but never seem to fade behind glass.
So the stage I'm at now is there's been a very good improvement with 2 passes of GO but we couldn't really sell a print from the 9500 with two coats of GO on as the gloss differential is still visible although drastically decreased from a print with no GO used.
Now for some questions..... How long should I wait before re coating with the GO?
I did try putting the print back in straight away but I got some roller marks so I have been waiting 24hrs before coating again which will make getting a good gloss or luster print from the 9500 a very long winded operation.
I will try & get some pictures of what is happening & make another post
 
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