Are newer 3D printer better ?

[The Hat]

you'd need a much heftier drier than the Esun or Sunlu. You should get a powerful food dehydrator..

Nope, this Feckin Sunlu is going to work or it isn’t, I’m not pushed either ways it also has to cope with the conditions I have, it didn’t work before when I had nothing, so this is a step up, it also has to work with the CR-10.. if anything is not suitable then tuff, I’ll dump the filament..

 

[Artur5]

I have one too ( mine is Esun ). It works passably well for PLA but you can't expect miracles, given the very limited heating power. I assume that it can't dry well other filaments more hygroscopic, which also need higher temperatures ( up to 80-85C).
My Esun has a small fan, which helps to equalize temperature and humidity levels,up to a point.
Fact is that the real temperature in the drier is always lower than the setting. If you put a termometer inside the Sunlu probably you'll see that too.
I expect that it takes many time and much more heating power to dry well spools that have been exposed for weeks or months to humidity. These small appliances are just helping a bit.

 

[The Hat]

I got my Sunlu to maintain humidity in the filament roll not to dry out already high moisture filaments in the first place, I set mine to 40c and it maintains that temperature and yes I do have a separate thermometer inside the box too. Humidity is set to 40%..

All I wanted was something that would hold the humidity at its current levels, and ideally 40% works for me and that’s why I bought another box because they do the job intended, my 3D printers have to work in my environment, otherwise there no Feckin use.. The normal humidity in my shed is 85% most of the time..

 

[Artur5]

You should relocate to Arizona. High temperature and low humidity for free, thanks to the eSun.

 

[Redbrickman]

@The Hat I think if you start off with a new spool of PETG in the drier it should be fine. I didn't use a drier at all for PETG and even after several weeks sitting at the side of the printer it still worked fine. People moan about how stringy PETG can be, but to be honest once you get the settings dialled in I found it printed nicer than PLA and the finish is great.

 

[The Hat]

People moan about how stringy PETG can be, but to be honest once you get the settings dialled in I found it printed nicer than PLA and the finish is great.

Feckin show off… Has to do everything just right…

 

[Artur5]

I always keep my spools in a sealed plastic bag with dessicant. Neither PLA nor PETg have been problematic with humidity, but I don't concur with @Redbrickman about PETg looking nicer than PLA.
In my case oozing/stringing on PETg is very well controlled with two brands I tried but the overall finish is coarser than PLA and it's also worse with overhangs and bridges.

 

[The Hat]

but I don't concur with @Redbrickman about PETg looking nicer than PLA.

If you had the printer he has, you wouldn’t say that, it’s the Bees knees in printers… “Voron” it can piss backward without wetting its pants..

I’m still on a three wheeler trike compared to that beast..

 

[Artur5]

Sorry, but not even the best 3D printer in the world can make PETg look better than PLA, assuming both are very good quality brands and printed correctly.
PETg is more flexible and resilient to heat or impacts, nicer NOT. Is not the printer, it's the nature of the plastic itself.
Possibly @Redbrickman hasn't figured out yet the correct settings for his PLA..

 

[Redbrickman]

Well @Artur5 I disagree and I have had PLA printing with the most beautiful sheen on the surface. I only use PETG for strength in some R/C model parts, i.e. the motor mounts and some other parts where they are exposed to heat, but ABS and ASA are my preferred filaments for other parts that require strength and heat / UV resistance.