Alternative to HP C6832A resin coated paper ?

Smile

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Hello, looking for alternative to

HEWLETT PACKARD / HP - C6832A - CR672A - Q1951A - A4 PREMIUM PLUS GLOSSY PHOTO PAPER (20 SHEETS PER PACK)
 

thebestcpu

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Hi Smile
From my understanding, the HP Premium Plus Glossy Photo Paper is 80lbs or 265 g/m^2
It is still available for sale
If you want to move from that paper a couple of alternatives
Epson Premium Photo Paper Glossy at 256 g/m^2 or
Epson Ultra Premium Photo Paper Glossy at 297 g/m^2

That is assuming I understood your question correctly.

I don't know what printer you are using with these photo papers, yet it is best to see if ICC profiles are available for those paper/printer/ink combinations or do your profiling.

Hope this helps
John Wheeler
 

Ink stained Fingers

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The HP paper CR672A , as well the CR674A which is more difficult to get in Germany , are the only papers I have tested over a longer time which does not have any optical brighteners in the coating, and I have tested a lot of these RC - resin coated papers. There are a few fineart papers as well w/o OBA's but they are not asked for. The Canon PT101 on the other side has lots of OBA's, about the most I have seen during all my testing. But the PT101 is a paper which has a wider (slightly) gamut than most other RC papers, even OEM papers.
 

palombian

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As reported yesterday, I was very impressed with the
KODAK Ultra Premium Photo Paper
on sale at Amazon (€ 7.99/20 A4, € 9.99 for 25).

If I didn't have enough glossy A4 in stock I would take more (also since the back feels plastic and has the Kodak logo printed, not so nice for photobooks or calendars).

KODAK ULTRA PREMIUM PHOTO PAPER.jpg

KODAK ULTRA PREMIUM PHOTO PAPER_test.jpg
 

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Smile

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KODAK Ultra Premium Photo Paper is RC paper? does it have OBA's ?
Yes I'm looking for RC paper without OBA's .
 

thebestcpu

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I did not check availability in Germany. Yet Baryta papers often do not have optical brighteners with glossy options. I will list some links to check. They come in various textures and costs, and, therefore, not all are identical replacements for the HP Premium Glossy. I thought it was worth sharing.

https://www.hahnemuehle.co.uk/photo-rag-baryta/10641663?utm_source=chatgpt.com

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod..._rag_305.html/overview?utm_source=chatgpt.com

https://www.wexphotovideo.com/canso...-a4-10-sheets-3173183/?utm_source=chatgpt.com

I hope this gives you a direction to explore these and other Baryta glossy papers as a possibility.

John Wheeler
 

palombian

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I reorganized my paper stock by surface yesterday, and I placed the Photo Rag Baryta on the SATIN shelf (others are GLOSSY, PEARL, and MATTE).

In my opinion, the effect and purpose of these (by @thebestcpu cited) papers are quite different from the high gloss, high white RC papers discussed before.

I have no experience or interest in the OBA question, but if the purpose is to maintain the original print quality over time, I've found 10-15 year old Hahnemühle Fine Arts (Photo Rag, William Turner) and Innova (Smooth Cotton High White) papers more yellowed in the box than the budget (and most probably with OBAs) PRO-line Vibrant Mat.

The latter survives even as posters on the wall in the moisture of our weekend house.

I wouldn't offend anybody, but - in the spirit of this forum to demystify marketing - my prints have to look good NOW at a reasonable price.
 

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Here is a comparison of a few papers in regards to their UV response showing the difference between the HP Premium Plus Photo Paper and the Canon PT101. The high gloss and similar RC papers have the paper core sandwiched between very thin PE foils/films - on both sides - one side carries the coating. You cannot write reasonably or print on the backside because of that film. Lots of Fineart papers do not have the backside laminated,
some curl heavily after print - more than even cast coated papers. Such prints need to be framed directly after print.

Yellowing of papers over time - years - does not have much interest by the users overall, it's the paper base which can turn yellow and even optical brighteners when they degrade - and they do as fast as regular dye inks.

https://www.printerknowledge.com/th...ing-test-106-114-t54c-gi-53.16479/post-142203

https://www.aardenburg-imaging.com/lilis-redux/
 

palombian

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Here is a comparison of a few papers in regards to their UV response showing the difference between the HP Premium Plus Photo Paper and the Canon PT101. The high gloss and similar RC papers have the paper core sandwiched between very thin PE foils/films - on both sides - one side carries the coating. You cannot write reasonably or print on the backside because of that film. Lots of Fineart papers do not have the backside laminated,
some curl heavily after print - more than even cast coated papers. Such prints need to be framed directly after print.

Yellowing of papers over time - years - does not have much interest by the users overall, it's the paper base which can turn yellow and even optical brighteners when they degrade - and they do as fast as regular dye inks.

https://www.printerknowledge.com/th...ing-test-106-114-t54c-gi-53.16479/post-142203

https://www.aardenburg-imaging.com/lilis-redux/
So after 15 years in store the long time survival of most of my papers should be the same independent of the original quality and price ?
Nevertheless you can't hide the huge differences in appearance and color rendition.

The yellowing doesn't matter a lot (for most subjects) since I make custom profiles (and even without the tone varies more with ambient lighting).

PS: the curling was one of the reasons why Canon imposed the annoying 30mm border in Fine Art settings, but this doesn't protect against the printhead touching a bulge in the middle, so you need to elevate the printhead anyway.
My recent tests on cast and matte papers to see if Fine Art settings resulted in a wider gamut and deeper blacks were negative (with my actual Canon Lucia EX inks) anyway.

Custom profiling and a test images indicate the strengths and weak points of a paper/ink/printer combination and are a starting point to adapt development and print settings to obtain the result you want.
You can make pleasing prints on cheap paper (if needed or for the sport ;) ).
 
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