3D Printer Nozzle Quality Comparison

[stratman]

https://imgur.com/gallery/tEArSJr

Do these imperfections matter? If so, at what point do they matter for the printing done by hobbyists?

 

[Nifty]

I don't do a ton of super-precision, so my gut-reaction is "no, not a huge impact for the casual hobbyist".

What would be interesting is if they printed the exact same test-sample item with the exact same filament, settings, etc., and only swapping those nozzles to see if there really is much difference.

I think the main issues I've heard / seen with various nozzles:

1. When the "throat" of the upper portion of the nozzle isn't bored perfectly clean and filament can get stuck
2. When the tip of the nozzle has been eroded away so much (from abrasive filament) that the opening is almost twice as big, so a lot more plastic comes out than is expected, causing issues

... but again, I'm not a purist and do much bigger quick-n-dirty prints.

 

[The Hat]

Do these imperfections matter? If so, at what point do they matter for the printing done by hobbyists?

I have never taught much about the output quality of my nozzles and I use point 5 and as long as it keeps feeding out without clogging then I’m happy, perfection is in the eye of the beholder, and right now this holder is unemployed till I get my printers fixed..
P.S. I change the nozzle head every couple of weeks, I got a bag of 50 spare..

 

[Phomemo]

Brass nozzles are lacking in durability and printing accuracy, especially when printing abrasive materials, the wear is quite high.
However, tungsten nozzles largely make up for the disadvantages of traditional nozzles in this regard, and are more durable and affordable.

 

[The Hat]

Brass nozzles are lacking in durability

Yes brass nozzles are not very durable, that’s correct, but it’s better that they do the wearing out than something else, especially if it buries itself into your glass hot bed..

 

[Artur5]

I have never taught much about the output quality of my nozzles and I use point 5 and as long as it keeps feeding out without clogging then I’m happy, perfection is in the eye of the beholder, and right now this holder is unemployed till I get my printers fixed..
P.S. I change the nozzle head every couple of weeks, I got a bag of 50 spare..

Each nozzle lasts only two weeks ?. Way worse than Canon printheads, I’d say.
If I’m not mistaken you use only PLA and not abrasive filaments ? Then, it seems a very short lifespan to this wannabe 3D user, Of course, you print a lot and huge parts too, but even so..

Maybe you might try that model below. I bet it lasts much longer than brass units although I’m not sure if, at 97 euro each, it’s a worthy investment.

 

[The Hat]

Each nozzle lasts only two weeks ?.

Wow, hang on a minute, (Just a figure of speach) my brass nozzles lasts as long as they lasts, usually many months, but sometimes I can get a few issues with build up inside and it doesent preform as it should, then I swap it out, no big deal, but my printers are usually going day and night.
P.S. At a cost of 20 cent, and two minutes to change, it’s a no brainer to have them working the way there intended, you can get a lemon with some nozzles O’ by the way I use point 5 nozzles, point 4 and under are for higher quality output..

Then, it seems a very short lifespan to this wannabe 3D user,

P.S. As a furture enterant to the 3D world, you'll come to find that not all brands of filament are 100% quality all of the time, you can get a duff role too..

 

[Redbrickman]

Most machines are set up by default for 0.4mm nozzles. If you change the size it will work just fine but to get the best quality of rprint from another nozzle size you should calibrate the extruder, in fact it always a good idea to do that anyway as the default setting is only approximate.

This article will tell you how to do it for a Creality machine but most machines that run on Marlin can be set up the same way...

https://letsprint3d.net/how-to-calibrate-the-extruder-steps-ender-3-5-cr-10/

 

[Artur5]

For best durability, specially with abrasive filaments, I’d thought beforehand that the standard would be tungsten carbide, sometimes pure, sometimes inlaid in cobalt. This is what the industry uses, for instance, in high pressure airless paint equipment. In fact, tungsten carbide is employed only as an insert on the part of the nozzle in contact with the resin or paint; the main body is metal, usually SS.

Nozzles made only of stainless steel are way cheaper but TC nozzles last 10 or 20 times as much and end up being more economical to use.

 

[The Hat]

Nozzles made only of stainless steel are way cheaper but TC nozzles last 10 or 20 times as much and end up being more economical to use.

Your over thinking the whole idea of home 3D printing.. Cheap is good, cheapest is bad..
If it works, use it, if it breaks replace it..