can one make light magenta and ligh cayn by diluting magenta and cyan

[Ink stained Fingers]

I was running out of a light ink at one time, so I just took what was at home, and it's working with this stuff
http://www.octopus-office.de/shop/d...tronen-druckkopfreinigung-rsl-rinse-solution/ but o.k., I'm doing my own profiles so I don't depend on an exact replication of the mixing ratio of the original ink. And I use it for dye and pigment inks since then.

 

[martin0reg]

For testing UV resistance of the fuji DL and other inks,
I made my own DIY UV-test device:
A "Fluorescent Full Spectrum Terrarium Lamp"..
http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Rep...&qid=1425313949&sr=8-1&keywords=Repti+Glo+2.0
..screwed in an old photo lamp.


I placed the large shade upside down over the prints and made a first quick and dirty test:
fuji DLvor dye ink (epson r285) vs IS dye ink (canon ip4500), printed on cheap matte inkjet paper 120g. One pair 7 days under the bulb, one pair stored in a book.


I simply took a photo of the prints side by side, no accurate color settings here, just to compare.
While the IS print faded expectedly strong on this cheap paper, the DL print hardly faded at all.
Note that these were quick prints without proper profiling, so the IS/canon print originally has a rather warm tone, while the DL/epson print was more neutral...not sure if the slightly different color cast of the epson prints ist due to fading or different color setting..

My next test under the "desert lamp" will be more accurate regarding the choice of prints. I just have put two more prints under the bulb, on better photo paper...to be seen next weekend...

 

[PeterBJ]

Thank you for the tip. I have a cheap bug zapper lamp with two 6W blue-white F6T5 fluorescent tubes. The tubes also produce UV light, so I will try to replicate your test. I recently bought some unused Canon OEM CLI-8 cartridges and some Canon OEM photo paper cheaply, so if the bug zapper lamp works for a fade test, I can do a comparison between IS and Canon inks on Sihl and Canon paper.

This is my bug zapper:

I wonder about the terrarium lamp as the price is in USD, and the line voltage in the US is 120V. Does the electronic ballast/inverter on this CFL accept both 120V and 230V ? or can you order a 230V version ?

 

[martin0reg]

Yes - a comparison of CLI-8 would be very interesting, especially with OEM (which I don't have)
I bought my lamps from amazon.de, so no problems with DC and volts (have linked the US version for international users)
http://www.amazon.de/Exo-Terra-PT21...rp_a1_1_p?ie=UTF8&refRID=0N42EWVHWYBYS938RVV9
and there are also lamps with more UVb (mine is like sun + UVa)
http://www.amazon.de/Exo-Terra-PT21...upplies_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=17G3072QTV60XYYZJJ16

 

[PeterBJ]

I think a UV-C lamp for sterilization might be more efficient for fading tests, but it is probably very dangerous for your eyes, so the lamp should probably be put into a box of some kind. I have a desktop lamp that uses a 11W U-shaped fluorescent tube, so I could buy one of these, from Amazon, if the bug zapper doesn't fade the prints.

 

[The Hat]

but it is probably very dangerous for your eyes, so the lamp should probably be put into a box of some kind.

I am glad you’re taking the health risk to you eyes seriously because these blue lights are very bad boys to be exposed too for long periods..

 

[PeterBJ]

My first tests will be with the bug zapper lamp, which I think is less dangerous, and I will put it inside a cupboard and close the door to avoid the UV light.

 

[Smile]

The sterilization lamps are very expensive when you buy higher prower ones, however there is a trick I use myself to sterilize my workplace from time time.

You just buy high pressure street mercury lamp. They are 200/250W they need ballast to turn on. To make this into UV lamp you brake the outside milky color glass. Inside the a quartz glass tube that emits UV rays. Very dangerous never ever look into one take care of pets or plants. Direct exposure kills any plants etc.

This produces ozone, after 10mins the room is sterilized. Adequate ventilation is required afterwards. Take care.

 

[The Hat]

My first tests will be with the bug zapper lamp, and I will put it inside a cupboard and close the door to avoid the UV light.

@PeterBJ Even the bugs will be safe from it in there..

 

[Ink stained Fingers]

Several people are putting targets into harsh environments and are going to fry them. O.K., I did one thing as well, Henry Wilhelm from WRI was claiming frequently that microporous paper is detrimental to the longevity of dye prints, very much opposite to swelling papers. I used a dye ink from US, which claims 'UV resistance', and printed CMYK Color bars onto a sheet of glossy photopaper, cheap, cast coated, instant dry, and overprinted half of the bars in a 2nd pass with gloss optimizer from the R1800/2000 ink set, and placed that
printout onto my balcony, recessed and protected against direct rain, the weather currently is overcast, infrequent sun, 3- 10 deg C, high rel. humidity, and probably not with much ozone and not much UV from direct sun. Just after one week the difference is clearly visible, the unprotected color bars are fading, black turns into brown, C and M are getting visibly lighter, Y to a degree as well. The overprinted area barely shows any sign of fading of any color now after one week, compared to a sample kept in the dark. A like test with OCP dye inks shows a very similar result, the unprotected colors are fading visibly as well, but not as much as the US UV inks whereas the overprinted area barely shows any fading, it's just starting to become visible in direct comparison to a dark sample. To summarize I can say that dye inks fade much quicker on this glossy foto paper than even on plain paper, and an overcoat, in this case the gloss optimizer , very much reduces the UV/ozone effect which I cannot separate in such test. Now the next challenge is to find a dye ink set which overall is more UV resistant than the inks I currently have at home. I cannot make any quantitative
measurements this way, and can only compare inks in direct comparison to find out which one stays longer than the other. Other types of protection, varnish, clear paint, lacquer to spray would probably yield similar results, but I'm not going to test that, I'm not so much into spraying.