What you should do before flushing a cart or flushing a printhead.

[joseph1949]

To: All, especially newbies
From: joseph1949

What you should do before flushing a cart or flushing a printhead.

My printer is a PIXMA MX870 model that uses CLI-221C,M,Y,BK carts and a PGI-220BK cart.

Two days ago I made a print and I noticed that that there was no green in the print. Based on what was on the screen there should have been some green on the print. I decided to do a nozzle check. The nozzle check showed no yellow. This told me that the yellow cart (CLI-221Y) was clogged and/or the printhead was clogged.

So, what to do? I decided to perform what I call the isopropyl alcohol/wait method.

Note: When I saw the bad nozzle test I decided to perform a cleaning with the result of no change. I next performed a deep cleaning with the result of no change. After a cleaning and a deep cleaning I still had no yellow. At this point I decided to use my isopropyl alcohol/wait method.

Here is what you need to perform the isopropyl alcohol/wait method:
99% isopropyl alcohol, an eye dropper or a squeeze bottle with a needle.

Note: I have performed the iso. alc./wait method a number of times with no adverse effects (knock on wood). I believe the method to be safe, quick, and easy. Every time I have used the method the cart and /or printhead has unclogged. In other words the method works!!!!!!

The following are the steps to perform the method:

1. Perform a nozzle test. If the test shows something bad go to step #2.

2. Open the printer. When the printhead is in the access/parked position unplug the printer.

3. Remove all of the carts. Set each cart aside in the horizontal position (like it is in the printhead). There is no need to cap the ink outlet or cover the air maze. The carts will only be out of the printhead for a short period of time, and thus, you can leave the carts naked.

4. Remove the printhead.

5. Place two drops of the isopropyl alcohol on the printheads ink inlet for the cart(s) that is(are) causing the problem. You can add more drops if you like, but do not drown the inlet(s). The excess alcohol will not hurt the surrounding inlets, but the alcohol may do damage to the innards of the printer.

6. Place the printhead back into the printer.

7. With the printhead in the printer you can proceed to add alcohol to the cart(s). Take the clogged cart and turn it upside down. Using an eye dropper or a squeeze bottle add three or more drops to the carts ink outlet. I believe that three to five drops is all you need. Take your time adding the drops. There is no need to rush. After you have added the alcohol place the cart into the printhead. After you have added alcohol to the other clogged carts and placed the clogged carts into the printhead you can place the good carts back into the printhead.

8. All you have to do now is to wait. I usually wait 8 or more hours before performing a nozzle test. The longer you wait the better.

9. Plug the printer back in and perform a nozzle test.

10. If the nozzle test is good you are good to go. If you have a bad nozzle test, please go on this site and ask for help. If you want to flush a cart remember that flushing a cart can be tricky for a newbie so please ask for help. If you intend to flush the printhead please ask for help first. Flushing a printhead is where monsters be. If you flush a printhead, there are three things you should know. They are:

1. You can go from a good printhead to a bad printhead.

2. You can go from a bad printhead to a bad printhead.

3. While you are flushing the printhead please buy a new printhead.

You may be asking about going from a good printhead to a good printhead or going from a bad printhead to a good printhead. My answer is that when you are flushing a printhead expect the worst outcome. Remember thats where monsters be!!!!!

I believe that ALL newbies should try my isopropyl alcohol/wait method before trying anything else to fix a clogged cart or a clogged printhead.


Thank you

 

[The Hat]

I have read through you lengthy post and I must say youre very throe with your cleaning procedures but

You seem to have more than your fair share of ink clogs and problems with your print head for one reason or another
and you may well end up killing your own print head with kindness. (Hopefully Not)

Did you ever stop and ask yourself why this is so, just maybe your over doing the cleaning ritual to much or is it
that your cartridges themselves maybe causing most if not all of your problem i.e. ink starvation. (Ghost Clog)

With your cartridges properly refilled with good quality ink,
there should hardly ever be a need to remove and independently clean the print head manually yourself.

The printer will normally take of any cleaning that it deems necessary to keep the print head in perfect working order
and all thats required from your side is to use your printer regularly and it should last you for years.

Happy Printing..

 

[ThrillaMozilla]

Before you destroy your print head, what makes you so sure the print head is the problem?

I can imagine a few nozzles getting clogged, but I cannot imagine it's a common occurrence that suddenly a whole color is blocked in the print head. More commonly I would expect streaks and irregular coverage. I would suspect first that the cartridge is not feeding ink well. You could also have a leaking gasket where the cartridge attaches to the print head, but probably not unless it's dirty or damaged somehow.

I would look first for the following causes.

1. Is the cartridge sponge out of position or damaged? Lost contact with the outlet port, or jammed into the grooves on the wall? Have you chewed it up with rough treatment by the German method? Try knocking it back into place. If you use the German method, is part of the sponge jammed into the port between chambers?

2. Is there a bubble in the port between chambers in the cartridge? Tap the cartridge to dislodge bubbles.

3. Has the cartridge been allowed to dry out internally? If you refill by the German method, do you leave the fill hole open to the air? Was the port allowed to dry out?

 

[PeterBJ]

The inks are water based, not alcohol based, so pure isopropyl alcohol might not be the best printhead cleaner. I think a pure alcohol could make things worse by drawing water out of the ink and thus act as a drying agent, as ink might be much less soluble in alcohol than in water. I have observed something like this when trying to unclog an HP tricolor cartridge. The isopropyl alcohol made the ink on the nozzle plate coagulate in stead of dissolving it. A water/alcohol mixture with 20% alcohol dissolved the ink.

In the US one recommended printhead cleaner is the original "Windex with Ammonia-D". In the EU a similar "Ajax" window cleaner with ammonia is recommended.

If you think isopropyl alcohol is essential in printhead cleaning then you could try pharmacist's cleaning solution: http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=5992 In my opinion it works just as well as a window cleaner with ammonia.

 

[barfl2]

Any idea what is the Printhead Hospital offering, I downloaded offer 16 but managed to get my problem solved but was tempted. I have tried a few drops of Octoink cleaning fluid in the past.

It is possible to get a complete colour missing I have just had one and sorted it out with help from various members of this Forum. Cart flow problems cause a lot of problems and a regular nozzle check preferably on automatic period is necessary. Somebody did post a program for automatic checks but cannot remember who it was.

 

[joseph1949]

To: All
From: joseph1949

ThrillaMozilla, thank you for your reply. I was remiss in not telling what method I use to fill my carts. I use the top-fill method. ThrillaMozilla, all that work in creating your reply was not for naught. Newbies, if you read ThrillaMozillas reply you may come away with the conclusion that the german method is not the best method to fill a cart. Your conclusion would be partly correct. I believe the german method has a few problems (please read ThrillaMozillas reply). My method, the top-fill method, has its fair share of problems, but they are one of materials and not one of methodology. Note: If you are a newbie you will have problems with your methodology and materials.

Once you have mastered the top-fill method you know that if you have a problem you can be pretty sure that you can look at your materials (ink, cart, plug, etc.) for the problem and not your methodology.

If you use the german method there is no telling where is the problem.

The Hat, thank you for your reply. I will be answering you by taking quotes from your reply and giving a reply.

Quote:

You seem to have more than your fair share of ink clogs and problems with your print head for one reason or another
and you may well end up killing your own print head with kindness. (Hopefully Not)

Did you ever stop and ask yourself why this is so, just maybe your over doing the cleaning ritual to much or is it
that your cartridges themselves maybe causing most if not all of your problem i.e. ink starvation. (Ghost Clog)


End of quote.

My reply.
I have been refilling for more than two years. In that time I have used my isopropyl alcohol/wait method no more than three times. I do not think I am hurting my printhead. I guess I could use distilled water to unclog the cart/printhead, but I could die of advance old age (I am 63!!) before the water would unclog the cart/printhead. I could use ethanol, but it is something I have not seen being used on this site. I could use original Windex, but ammonia is not mothers milk. I will pass on using Windex until have used up all other methods to unclog a cart and/or a printhead.

In short, I believe that I treat my carts/printhead with kindnessthank you very much

I should stop here and give some specs:

I use two Canon PIXMA MX870 printers. They are two+ years old.

The printers use CLI-221C,M,Y,BK carts and a PGI-220BK cart.

I use InkTec inks. I first bought the ink in 20 mm containers. When I had used up the 20 mm containers I bought the ink in one liter containers. I unsealed the liter containers on April 20, 2011.

I use the top-fill method to fill my carts.

I use my hot glue/paper disc method to create the plug.

I use up a ream (500 sheets) of paper every three weeks to eight weeks which comes out to be four sheets per day per printer based on eight weeks.

I do not turn off or unplug my printers except for refilling.

For the first 18 months I refilled the same carts over and over again. In the last 6 months I have rotated my carts. I am using 6 carts (3 per printer) per dye ink cart and four carts (2 per printer) for the pigment ink cart.

Quote:

With your cartridges properly refilled with good quality ink,
there should hardly ever be a need to remove and independently clean the print head manually yourself.

End of quote.

My reply.

Please see above specs. I believe InkTec ink is good quality ink.

We may be getting into semantics, but I believe my isopropyl alcohol/wait method is not cleaning my printhead. In my opinion, cleaning (or flushing) a printhead manually means placing the printhead in a bath of distilled water, Windex, etc and letting it soak for a period of time. My isopropyl alcohol method dissolves (I think) the clog and then the normal action of printing removes the clog from the cart/printhead.

Quote:

The printer will normally take of any cleaning that it deems necessary to keep the print head in perfect working order
and all thats required from your side is to use your printer regularly and it should last you for years.

End of quote.

My reply.

The Hat, I believe your quote is correct for people who use OEM carts with OEM ink. For people who refill OEM carts with third-party ink I believe you need to give Canons cleaning some help (i.e. isopropyl alcohol/wait method, flushing, etc.).

Canons cleaning needs help for the following reasons:

1. Carts were not meant to be refilled.

2. Carts leak or will leak.

3. Using third-party ink.

4. Using carts until they die of old age.

5. The filling method you use may not be best for the cart.


Quote:

Happy Printing..

End of quote.

My reply.

Happy Printing..indeed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


PeterBJ, thank you for your reply.

The following is from Wired magazine:

What is in a inkjet cartridge;

Water
The ink in inkjet cartridges can be as much as 95 percent superpure deionized water. Yet at more than $3 per milliliter, it would be cheaper to print your vacation pics with Dom Perignon.

Butyl urea
Remember how inkjet pages used to curl up? Water in the ink causes the cellulose fibers in paper to swell and breaks the H-bonds between them. As the moisture evaporates, the fibers form new bonds, and as they shrink back to size, the new configuration makes the paper bend. Butyl urea slows the formation of those H-bonds, preventing curl.

Cyclohexanone
This organic solvent helps ink adhere to polymers, making it useful for things like outdoor signs made of PVC. It can also be found in heart-bypass and kidney-dialysis patients: The equipment used to pump blood outside the body leeches this stuff into the circulatory system, and tests show that it may reduce the hearts pumping.

Reactive Red 23 dye
Actually magenta. This copper-containing colorant is also found in tinted contact lenses.

Direct Blue 199 dye
Made of copper phthalocyanine and sulfur. Direct dyes can color natural cellulosic fibers like paper, cotton, and hemp without the use of a fixative.

Acid Yellow 23 dye
Known to the FDA as tartrazine, this yellow dye, which is also used in foods, is reported to trigger asthma attacks, hives, and contact dermatitis in some people. So if you print out a picture of a lemon, dont lick it.

Ethoxylated acetylenic diols
Officially called a surfactant, this modifies the surface tension of the water and dyes: Too little tension and the ink will run out of the cartridge; too much and it wont print when it needs to. Manufacturers try to keep the surface tension of the ink droplets to about half that of pure water.

Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA)
That strip of adhesive protecting the print nozzle before you install it is often loaded with metal contaminants. The EDTA, a hydra-headed molecule that forms a cats cradle of coordinate covalent bonds, traps them so they cant foul the ink or clog the printheads.

Ethylene glycol
Keeps the dyes in solution with the water and slows evaporation, preventing print nozzles from clogging.


Since the ink is mostly water when I add the isopropyl alcohol (seven drops maximum) I am using an alcohol/water mixture.

In the near future I will be attempting the following experiment:

In a clear container I will add seven drops of isopropyl alcohol to 9 mil of ink. I will gently shake the container on regular basis (once per day). I will perform this routine for 6 months. After the end of each month I will report by findings. After six months I will end my experiment and report my findings with a picture.

Note: If I can find some ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) I will add EDTA to a container with some ink and I see what happens. I would like to do the same with the ethylene glycol and cyclohexanone. Note: I will do the experiments if the chemicals are safe.

Using ammonia may be O.K., but be sure to use distilled water as a final flush. As I said aboveammonia is not mothers milk.

Pharmacist's cleaning solution is O.K., but like with ammonia you need to use distilled water as a final flush.


barfl2, thank you for your reply.

I like your idea about doing a nozzle check every day. I have tried to do this in the past, but sometimes I forget. In the future, I will make it a point to do a check every day


We can condense the above reply with the following: When we fill carts stuff happens

So there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Thank you.

 

[PeterBJ]

From my work at a paint manufacturing plant I know a couple of the chemicals you listed, and you shouldn't use them. ThrillaMozilla may have more comments.

Cyclohexanone is a strong solvent, it is a ketone like acetone also is, ketones are likely to attack plastics, and is not used in ordinary water based inks as it is not very soluble in water. Your listing mentions use in a special solvent based ink for printing PVC. Ethylene glycol is also a solvent and also a part of antifreeze, it is toxic and could often be substituted with the non toxic propylene glycol.

 

[The Hat]

joe,

I was in no way critical of what you do with your print head or cartridges;
I just asked how come you feel a need to do it so often that is all.

In short, I believe that I treat my carts/printhead with kindnessthank you very much

Again what I said was :-
You may well end up killing your own print head with kindness. (Hopefully Not)

Please see above specs. I believe InkTec ink is good quality ink.

Nor did I suggest that you werent using good quality ink far from it, what I did say was:-

With your cartridges properly refilled with good quality ink,
there should hardly ever be a need to remove and independently clean the print head manually yourself.

1. Carts were not meant to be refilled.

I cant argue with that but we all still do it including you anyway. (In most cases Successfully)

2. Carts leak or will leak.

Not if the refilling technique is correct they wont.

3. Using third-party ink.

Not if the cartridges are filled with good quality inks.

4. Using carts until they die of old age.

Not if the refilling practices used are correct and that preventive measures are taken in time. (Purging)

5. The filling method you use may not be best for the cart.

Again I cant argue with that, were all here to learn.

If all of the refilling practices and procedures are followed correctly then a print head
should never need to be manually cleaned outside the printer,
unless of course there is a small let down in one or many of the refilling procedures.

I end this thread the same as my last.

Happy Printing ..

 

[joseph1949]

To: The Hat
From: joseph1949

Concerning your reply #2, I do not know your intent, but by implication your reply tells me you do not think I know what I am doing. I suggest that you reread my threads and replies on this site. I may not be the sharpest pencil in the box, but I believe I can fill a cart with the best of them (including you, Mr. The Hat).

In short, your reply #2 was better suited to a newbie and not to a master. When you are addressing a master I suggest a bit of nuance is called forbig time.

You know the drillyour quote and my reply.

1. Carts were not meant to be refilled.

I cant argue with that but we all still do it including you anyway. (In most cases Successfully)

My reply.

Very good!!!!!!!!


2. Carts leak or will leak.

Not if the refilling technique is correct they wont.

My reply.

Your statement is a bit too absolute.

This is better: In my opinion, carts will not leak if you use the correct refilling technique.

The Hat, can you show me a picture of a cart that does not leaknow and in the future? Think about it!!!!!!!

3. Using third-party ink.

Not if the cartridges are filled with good quality inks.

My reply

Definition first:

Random House Webster's College Dictionary

third′ par′ty(n.)
1.
any party to a case or quarrel who is incidentally involved.

2.
(in a two-party system) a usu. temporary political party composed of independents.

Category: Government

3.
a supplier of ancillary goods or support for a product or service who is neither the primary vendor nor the purchaser.


I do not see anything about quality or quantity in the above definition. I have searched in vain to find a definition of third party that includes the term quality (or quantity). The Hat, if you can find a definition that includes the term quality or 'good', or 'bad', etc. please show it to me.

The Hat, your definition does not count.

Any ink that you use instead of Canons ink is a third-party ink. It does not matter if the third party ink is good quality, bad quality, etc. Case closed, no discussion!!


4. Using carts until they die of old age.

Not if the refilling practices used are correct and that preventive measures are taken in time. (Purging)

My reply

Your reply implies that carts will last forever (or for a very long time) if refilling practices used are correct and preventive measures are taken in time.

The Hat, do you actually think that Canon engineered a cart that you can fill forever? I believe that Canon says that their ink is good for two years. By implication Canons cart should last at least for two years. Two years is not forever. Yes, a cart can last for ten years or maybe more. Again, ten years is not forever. The plastic case of the cart can last for a very long time, but can the sponge and the pad last forever? Can the chip last forever?

When I first started to use my printer I used Caboodle carts (OEM carts with Caboodle ink). One time when I was in the Caboodle store the store owner was there and I asked him how many times does Caboodle fills their Canon carts. He said twiceonce by the original owner and once by Caboodle. Not forever!!!!!!!!

In my opinion, if you get five years out of a cart that you fill on a regular basis you are doing damn good!!!!!!!!!!!!

Carts have a finite life regardless on how they are treated. Bet on it!!!!!!!


5. The filling method you use may not be best for the cart.

Again I cant argue with that, were all here to learn.

My reply.

True, some more than others!!!!!


I end this thread the same as my last.

Happy Printing ..

My reply.

Maybe!!!!!


Thank youI think.