More Up-grades to my CR-10...

[The Hat]

1. New Insulation for the bottom of the hot-bed..

2. A new bracket called "Fang" for the Hot-end..

3. Whole new Original Creality top for the Extruder..

4. Flexible swinging wall bracket...


1. I found this foam floor tile and cut it to fit the underside of my heated platform, I only needed to cut the centre piece out where the heater was positioned, to allow the tile to fit snuggly onto the back of the platform.

I coated the edges with PVA glue 1 cm width and also applied a little hot glue on the corners and some of the edges I put the cut-out piece in over the heater just to finish off the insulation using hot glue to hold that in place, everything is working nicely, and the bed heats up a bit faster too.

2. I had made this Fang a few weeks ago but didn’t have long enough screws to fit it properly, so I took this opportunity while the printer was out of action to finally install it, the one big advantage of the Fang, you can see the nozzle much better (Clearer view) and the fan air is directed to the hot filament from both sides, instead of the heat block.


It was not that easy to just screw it in place, I had a couple of refits because it was flopping about too much, (Unsecure) but in the end, I’ve now got it secured tightly.

3. After @Redbrickman highlighted this very cheap extruder upgrade back in November, https://www.printerknowledge.com/threads/creality-cr10-owners-special-factory-upgrade.12101/

I was late to the table but eventually got mine last week, and I also make a new all plastic extension for the extruder to sit on, and at the same time I fitted the Creality original pieces on top of the extruder, and now all work perfect...

4. I found this odd-looking contraption on Thingiverse.com, it’s a very flexible wall bracket that can be made into any position and can swing round from side to side, I found it great for holding the heat-bed power cable and it stops it hitting the wall...

click to enlarge photos...
I wanted to load a few more photos but ran out of space (Max 10)

 

[Nifty]

Awesome stuff!!

I LOVE the fang! It was one of the best things I did to my printer! Now I can easily see (and access boogers with tweezers) the hotend!

Do you have a link to that wall-mount bracket on thinkiverse?

 

[The Hat]

I LOVE the fang! It was one of the best things I did to my printer!

I haven’t gotten use to the Fang just yet, but its mighty hard to get it to sit firmly.

Do you have a link to that wall-mount bracket on thinkiverse?

I can do one better than that..
@Nifty, All you have to do is ask...

 

[stratman]

Automatic Like vote anytime the forum owner works into a post the word "booger".

 

[Redbrickman]

@The Hat - I fitted a spring and plain washer on the 20mm screw heads then added a little glue to the threads before lining the fang up vertical and tightening up. When I first fitted it I did not get it tight enough and it ruined a print due to a layer shift when the nozzle move slightly

This one does not use the hotend screws for mounting it but I cannot use it as there is not enough clearance to add the BL Touch sensore mount to the side of it.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2722733

I find the extruder upgrade is a lot easier to use when feeding filament due to the longer lever.

Next time I take the bed off to do any maintenance I am going to fit some insulation but also hot glue the bare solder connections to help prevent them coming adrift or shorting out. It's a weak point in the design and has caused a few fireworks on some machines even with the strain relief bracket fitted.

 

[berttheghost]

@The Hat -

Next time I take the bed off to do any maintenance I am going to fit some insulation but also hot glue the bare solder connections to help prevent them coming adrift or shorting out. It's a weak point in the design and has caused a few fireworks on some machines even with the strain relief bracket fitted.

Hi,
Use Kapton tape instead. It won't melt and add to the fireworks. The solder joints on my bed heater are simply awful in appearance but they do at least appear to work, at least for now ...

 

[FryingSaucer]

Next time I take the bed off to do any maintenance I am going to fit some insulation but also hot glue the bare solder connections to help prevent them coming adrift or shorting out. It's a weak point in the design and has caused a few fireworks on some machines even with the strain relief bracket fitted.

I had to solder the power cable to the heat bed. I use this strain relief. It screws to the plate supporting the heat bed and holds the cable rock solid.

 

[Redbrickman]

Looks like a good job. There is a strain relief bracket on the CR10 range which stop the cable end from flexing, but it't the bare soldered joints that cause me concern so they will get insulated soon

 

[The Hat]

A week on without printing is like 3-dimensional limbo...
Which way is UP...

 

[stratman]

Try whittling wood until you get the printer running again. You can still make things but in the old fashion way.