Is a Dremel tool the best tool to cut the top on a cart (CLI-221)?

[joseph1949]

To: All

Is a Dremel tool the best tool to cut the top on a cart (CLI-221)?

I need to remove the top of a CLI-221 cart so as to remove hot glue from the ink tank. The hot glue got in there when I tried to remove the hot glue plug from the refill hole located on the top (top-fill method) of the cart.

The reason that I need to remove the hot glue is that the glue may have been responsible for a bad nozzle check that I had a while back.

Below is the picture of the cart that I will be working on. I have covered in blue tape the part of the top that will be removed. I will be cutting just to the right of the original fill hole. My fill hole is under the tape.

I have a Dremel tool which I bought in 2003. It is the model 7.2V MultiPro Cordless High Speed Rotary Tool Model 770. The unit has two speeds10,000 and 20,000 rpm.

I have some cutting accessories that I can use in removing the top. Below are pictures of the accessories. Also, I have created a description of the accessories.

Description of accessories-- Starting from the left:

409 15/16 cutting wheel. Thickness of wheel is .025 (.6mm).
402 mandrel. This is the mandrel that Dremel says one should use with the cutting wheels.
540 1-1/4 cut-off wheel. Thickness of wheel is .0625 (1.6mm).
430? 1/4 mandrel for a 1/4 sanding band. I also have a 407? 1/2" mandrel for a 1/2 sanding band.

Note: I am thinking that I can use either the 1/4 mandrel or the 1/2" mandrel with the cutting wheels. I will be contacting the Dremel site to see if it is possible to use the 1/4 or the 1/2" mandrel with the cutting wheels.

Question: Can one use the 1/4 or the 1/2 mandrel with a cutting wheel?

426 1-1/4 fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheels. Thickness of wheel is .045 (1.1mm).

Below is the picture of the Dremel Multi-Vise 2500-01 that I will be using to hold the cart while I am removing its top. I will be purchasing the vise from Home Depot. The cost will be $30.00 plus shipping.

Question: Is there another vise that would be better for holding the cart?

I see two ways to remove the top from the cart. They are:

1. Use the Dremel rotary tool with a 409 cutting wheel with the 402 mandrel. I may use a sanding band mandrel with the 409 cutting wheel.

2. Use a mini hacksaw or a jigsaw. The blade will have very small teeth and the thickness of the blade will be as thin as possible.

Note: No matter the method used I would like to remove the smallest amount of material as possible. I will be using the Dremel vise or some other vise to hold the cart.

Question: I will be using LOCTITE Marine Epoxy glue (setting time is two hours) to reattach the piece to the top. Is there a better glue that I can use to attach the piece?

Question: If I use the Dremel rotary tool, what is the best technique that I can use in removing the top?

Thank you.

 

[Redbrickman]

Worth a try, but in my opinion you will get a lot of plastic cuttings in the reservoir, and will have to reseal the the top very carefully when you get it all cleaned out.

I all else fails buy an OEM empty cart from ebay as there are plenty on there for a few $ or GBP

 

[joseph1949]

To: Redbrickman

Thank you for your reply.

I thought about getting cuttings in the reservoir so I will try cutting the top in the down position. As I have said before--let gravity be your friend.

I have a number of back-up carts. The removal of the top is an experiment.

Thank you.

 

[PeterBJ]

Is a Dremel tool the best tool to cut the top on a cart (CLI-221)?

I used a Dremel with a #409 cutting wheel and a #402 mandrel to cut open a NON-OEM BCI6-C or CLI8-C to illustrate a point in a discussion of the inner workings of a canon cartridge. Picture here: http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/uploads/6881_grooves_non_oem.jpg The Dremel does a nice job of cutting the cartridge. Please remember to wear suitable eye protection when using rotary cutting tools, even if the Dremel is not a full size angle grinder.

Question: Is there another vise that would be better for holding the cart?

I held the cartridge with my left hand, using a leather working glove for protection. It will be more safe to use a vise though.

Question: I will be using LOCTITE Marine Epoxy glue (setting time is two hours) to reattach the piece to the top. Is there a better glue that I can use to attach the piece?

The problem is that cartridge is made from polypropylene plastic. You can see this from the >PP< marking on the end of the cartridge, opposite to the chip. Polypropylene has a slightly oily feel to the surface and ordinary epoxies or cyanoacrylates (super glue 10 seconds variety) don't bond well to it. I have tried. I don't know the Loctite Marine Epoxy, so I cannot tell if it will work.

Hot Melt Glue might work, link here: http://www.finishing.com/315/09.shtml else a special adhesive is required links here: http://www.stealth316.com/2-dp8005.htm and here : http://www.reltekllc.com/adhesives-for-polypropylene.htm

The slightest air leak in the ink chamber will cause the cartridge to leak and cause a lot of trouble see this thread: http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=6269

So why not save the 30$ or use it for buying one or two new OEM carts instead of taking the risk of ruining other cartridges and possibly the printer as well ? So I recommend replacing that cartridge.

If you cut it open for educational purpose only, I am sure a photo series of its inner workings would be appreciated. I don't remember seeing this on the forum. Compare this excellent photo series by paulcroft : http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=6221&p=1

 

[joseph1949]

To: PeterBJ

Thank you for your reply. Your reply is most helpful and gave me much to think about.

The following is list of procedures that I will be doing:

1. I will place a small amount of marine epoxy on the top of the cart. For this purpose I will peel back the label next to the original fill hole to expose the top. If the epoxy stays on the top I am good to go.

2. I will be using eye protection. I wear glasses, but I will buying some new goggles to go over my glasses. I will be praticing on plastic to see how to use the cutting tools.

3. I will be using the Dremel vise for sure. If I didnt use a vise I could hurt myself and the cuts would not be even. I need clean and even cuts.

4. If the marine epoxy does not work I will be investigating the sites that you presented for gluing polypropylene. No matter what the glue has to work in the presence of watervery important.

5. The main reason I am cutting the top on my cart is to help my friend with her cart. She had a terrible time in filling her cart.

6. I will be taking pictures while I am removing the top. I will take a picture of the inside of the reservoir after I remove the top. I do not expect the picture will show much if anything. I will be removing too small of a piece to show much inside the reservoir.

7. The $30 for the vise is not spent just for cutting the top. The vise will come in handy when I fill my carts. I can always use a third-hand in my work.

8. After I take out the glue (not wax) and after I glue the top back on I will place some ink (a small amount for sure) in the reservoir and place the cart in the vise upside down. And wait. And see what happens. I may tap on the cut piece to simulate vibration. I am no fool. I will be sure that the cart does not leak before I place the cart into the printer. If and when I place the cart into the printer I will be checking on the cart on a daily basis. I will not be pressing my luck. Thus, I will be filling the cart 1/4 or 1/2 full. After I see that the cart is not leaking I will fill the cart to 3/4 full.

P.S. I could substitute water for ink in testing the cart. It is a good chance that I will be doing this.

Thank you.

 

[barfl2]

joseph1949 What model Brother carts. are you trying to refill? I have refill instructions for LC02 series/MFC 840 and LC900. This a universal refill kit for all makes which I bought for HP 56/57 carts. It was my first attempt at refilling and it worked fine. The illustrations show where to put the holes. From the text it sounds like you are putting ink into the foam, which is the same on the HP 56/57. You can only insert the ink very slowly otherwise it overflows perhaps this was the problem your friend experienced. Also these HP carts are known to only be refillable 2/3 times, unlike the Canon ones. Possibly the Brother have similar foibles. I am not suggesting using Universal ink which Forum Experts do not like. In fact it has worked well in my HP Photosmart 7760 which is only used as a back-up Printer and got me on the refilling route.

barfl2

 

[joseph1949]

To: barfl2

Thank you for your reply.

My friend uses the Brothers LC61 cart. I have not seen her cart, but she told me that her cart does not have the slide part. She will give me an empty cart when the printer gives her notice that the cart is empty. I do not expect to get an empty cart for the foreseeable future. She uses ink at a very slow rate.

Here are some sites that tell you how to refill a LC61 cart.

Note: The sites show more than one type of LC61.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wiaTBI1_7M&feature=related

http://www.ehow.com/how_6039829_refill-brother-lc61-starter-cartridge.html

http://www.refillinstructions.com/Brother/B8.htm

http://www.fixya.com/support/t2544873-refill_brother_lc61_ink_cartridge

Note: Base on what my friend has told me I believe that this is the type of LC61 (www.fixya.com/.......) cart she uses.

http://www.ehow.com/how_6760010_refill-brother-lc61-ink-cartridges.html

As you can see the instructions go from bad to terrible.

Question: Are there any decent instructions on the web that someone can use to fill a LC61 without making a mess?


Question: Are there any pictures where someone has open up a LC61 and then given instructions on how to refill the cart?


Thank you.

 

[joseph1949]

To: inkjet printer forum administrator

Thank you for restoring my topic!