To all you print experts out there I need help. I have a Canon Pro 9000 printer and I can't get the colors right when I print. I'm using an Apple I Mac computer and I'm also using Apple Aperture II. When I print I use the default Canon printer drivers and my Monitor has been calibrated. Can anyone help?
Canon Pro 9000 help
- Thread starter redhat
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Does Apple Aperture II supports the usage of printer profiles ? I am not a Apple user. Photoshop and Light Room allow the usage of pritner profiles very easily, which is necessary to get the right colours.
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redhat
I use a Mac and PC but with Photoshop on both and dont have problems with photo.
If you try altering the print profiles in Aperture II to Adobe/Canon settings and with a bit of adjustment you will get what you want but it takes time. Are you printing your photos from native RAW mode?
I use a Mac and PC but with Photoshop on both and dont have problems with photo.
If you try altering the print profiles in Aperture II to Adobe/Canon settings and with a bit of adjustment you will get what you want but it takes time. Are you printing your photos from native RAW mode?
Pharmacist, by using the printer's profile on the monitor you are making the monitor to display the colors the printer will print. This is called soft proving. I have heard that Adobe actually resisted the idea and refused to implement the feature in Photoshop and Lightroom for some years. They did eventually implement it in them probably because people kept on asking why not. My problem with this concept is yeah you make your monitor to display the colors your printer will print. But this process does not improve colors. I edit my images on Adobe RGB color space and make the best colors I can on them. But then when I want to print I can not control my printer to print the colors as close as I see on my monitor at all. If I do soft proving then my colors are all changed. I understand I can edit again (or don't edit in Adobe RGB space at all) in the soft proving environment. But how will I know I am getting the right colors? The printer will print the colors I see but how do I know the colors are the right colors of my images?pharmacist said:
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Hi Leo8088,
softproofing is what I use all the time. This is something not unfamiliar to me, but my question is about the to me unknown Aperture II. No printer profile will rival the Adobe RGB space, which is way larger than any printer profile. Did you read my question to the topic starter carefully ?
softproofing is what I use all the time. This is something not unfamiliar to me, but my question is about the to me unknown Aperture II. No printer profile will rival the Adobe RGB space, which is way larger than any printer profile. Did you read my question to the topic starter carefully ?
redhat needs to outline what ink and papers he is using first. If it is all OEM then he should be able to get something close to what he has on the screen with the standard drivers and profiles.
Before any softproofing is attempted, it is important to have your monitor calibrated and profiled and equally important, that you have a printer profile that matches the paper and ink combination as well as details was to what settings/quality and resolution was used in creating those profiles. Mfr supplied profiles supplied with printers assumes you will be using OEM inks and paper. It is unlikely that on this forum, you will have stayed with OEM inks and papers.
Mixing inks from various sources will render the printer profiles from any source as useless unless the profile was created with that SPECIFIC ink combination of mixed sources.
If you have need for a profile for the Pro9000 and obtained ink from me then I can email you a package of profiles for the Pro9000 including some really nice profiles for one the most frequently used glossy paper in NA. ...Kirkland Professional Glossy, Sailor man versions not the new TULIP. I understand that you got your ink cartridges from Staples.... Is it OEM cartridges or Remanufactured Staples? If it is the latter, then you need to be lucky as you will never know what you will be getting because even Staples won't know. As long as yellow is yellow it is fine by them. For photos, this is not good enough. It must be exactly consistent for the purposes of profiles.
Buying refilled or aftermarket cartridges is like a box of chocolates.....you never know what you're gonna get. (credits to Forrest Gump)
You can verify your monitor calibration by visiting this page
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
Also when calibrating your Apple setup, did you calibrate for Gamma 1.8 or 2.2. The old Apple standard was 1.8. Most photographers stick with 2.2 nowadays. The above test page will reveal your calibration. Also be aware that most novices have their monitors much much too bright. This will cause problems as the image on print cannot match bright monitors EVER. Even with a properly calibrated monitor that respects the average ambient light level in the room, you'd still need a professional lightbox to replicate the brightness on the screen and even then it may pale a bit but one gets used to it and compensates for it subconsciously. If you calibrated your monitor in a well lit room, you will NEVER get prints that will match the brightness of what you see on the screen. The physics of what is going on cannot be overcome. Ambient light needs to be reflected from the print, whereas what you see on the screen is backlit and is brighter than the ambient light.
Also you should always start in the sRGB color space and get everything set up and working properly there first. After and only after you have mastered that setup where the image matches the prints, then proceed to a larger color space if necessary. That way, you will now know what settings have changed and might need reviewing should you have problems.
Aperture does support profiles.
Before any softproofing is attempted, it is important to have your monitor calibrated and profiled and equally important, that you have a printer profile that matches the paper and ink combination as well as details was to what settings/quality and resolution was used in creating those profiles. Mfr supplied profiles supplied with printers assumes you will be using OEM inks and paper. It is unlikely that on this forum, you will have stayed with OEM inks and papers.
Mixing inks from various sources will render the printer profiles from any source as useless unless the profile was created with that SPECIFIC ink combination of mixed sources.
If you have need for a profile for the Pro9000 and obtained ink from me then I can email you a package of profiles for the Pro9000 including some really nice profiles for one the most frequently used glossy paper in NA. ...Kirkland Professional Glossy, Sailor man versions not the new TULIP. I understand that you got your ink cartridges from Staples.... Is it OEM cartridges or Remanufactured Staples? If it is the latter, then you need to be lucky as you will never know what you will be getting because even Staples won't know. As long as yellow is yellow it is fine by them. For photos, this is not good enough. It must be exactly consistent for the purposes of profiles.
Buying refilled or aftermarket cartridges is like a box of chocolates.....you never know what you're gonna get. (credits to Forrest Gump)
You can verify your monitor calibration by visiting this page
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
Also when calibrating your Apple setup, did you calibrate for Gamma 1.8 or 2.2. The old Apple standard was 1.8. Most photographers stick with 2.2 nowadays. The above test page will reveal your calibration. Also be aware that most novices have their monitors much much too bright. This will cause problems as the image on print cannot match bright monitors EVER. Even with a properly calibrated monitor that respects the average ambient light level in the room, you'd still need a professional lightbox to replicate the brightness on the screen and even then it may pale a bit but one gets used to it and compensates for it subconsciously. If you calibrated your monitor in a well lit room, you will NEVER get prints that will match the brightness of what you see on the screen. The physics of what is going on cannot be overcome. Ambient light needs to be reflected from the print, whereas what you see on the screen is backlit and is brighter than the ambient light.
Also you should always start in the sRGB color space and get everything set up and working properly there first. After and only after you have mastered that setup where the image matches the prints, then proceed to a larger color space if necessary. That way, you will now know what settings have changed and might need reviewing should you have problems.
Aperture does support profiles.
I think we are not communicating. You may have asked a different question and I asked yet another different one.pharmacist said:
One of the questions I have about soft proofing can be explained by this:
A color proof on a computer monitor, which is based on the additive color process. While this proofing method is ideal for making quick changes during prepress, it is not accurate enough to be used as a final proof. This is mainly due to the differences in color gamut between the additive and subtractive color processes.
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Yes, after carefully reading the post I must conclude we both are asking two different questions. Sorry for this.leo8088 said:
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