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Well, you asked a few questions and since nobody else was responding I thought I would. As for making things complicated, if you really think that using a Pro-100 ink set in a 9000 is not complicated then all I can say is "good luck", and let us know how it works out.

Not quite sure exactly what you're proposing here. I thought The Hat said that the cartridges were physically identical but with different chips. That means in theory you could change the chips to use Chromalife 100+ in place of Chromalife 100 and maybe get better fade resistance. I believe that...

Just for the record, the profile that I referred to was one that I made myself. Inkjetfly, does not normally supply profiles for their inks, largely I suspect because of licencing issues with profiling software. In that respect I think PC should be commended for providing licence-free profiles...

So, as I thought, the PC inks will be used with the appropriate profile from PC and the OEM inks with the generic Canon profile? Should be an interesting exercise.

I trust that the "test prints" to be measured will be printed using an appropriate (custom) profile for the PC inks. What matters in your case is not how close PC inks are to OEM inks, but how accurate the prints are when printed with a good profile. My experience with Inkjetfly inks in my...

Not sure that's true. One major application for inkjet printers is to make hard proofs for offset etc printers. In fact, the Iris printer that became the first "fine art" inkjet printer, was developed purely as a proofing printer for the print industry. Admittedly it is necessary for the...

If you're really interested, Aardenburg Imaging is testing both the Chromalife and the Chromalife+ ink sets.Their results show that the "+" version is a lot better than the original for light fading. Their Conservation Display Rating lower limit has jumped from 3 to at least 22 Megalux hours...

I guess the hijack of this thread is now complete.

Doesn't the Pro-100 have an extra two grey inks? Makes for significantly better B&W prints.

OK Mike - here goes..... I tried dispcalGUI a year or two back and didn't get on with it too well, but thought I'd give it another try. I'm glad I did because when I opened it up it informed me there was a newer version (2.6.0.0) I downloaded that and it looked rather different from what I...

I'm afraid I can't offer any explanation for the effect that you are seeing. However, just for the record, here is an example of what I understand to be bronzing. This compares two different pigment inks on the same paper - one clearly much better than the other.

Isn't the Pro-100 a dye ink printer? If so, bronzing shouldn't really be a problem.

Much as I would like to share your view of the future, I am rather more doubtful about the impact of 3D printers. As I sit at my computer and look around me I wonder how many of the products that I see could be made on one of these machines. Sadly, the answer is very few. A plastic ruler; a...

In what way is it not neutral? The dye inks used in the 1400/1500 tend to look a bit red in tungsten light. If this is what you are seeing then there's not much you can do to correct it. If the prints are not neutral in daylight then there may be a problem with your profile. If you are happy...

Gamutvision has lots of options that allow you to "explore" profiles, but the day-to-day process that I use is outlined in another thread http://www.printerknowledge.com/threads/profile-assessment.8249/page-4#post-64553 There are also quite a lot of posts in the current thread showing...

The batch file that I posted (ArgProf#2) was an attempt to make printer profiling a "turnkey" application and it has worked very well for me. Argyll has some quirks in file naming and I aimed to iron these out under the hood to give the user complete control over the .ti3 and profile names...

I think it is worth saying to anyone using Argyll (or any other profiling application!) that if you have to keep re-reading, it means that the overall quality of your readings is poor. Re-reading does not make a significant improvement in the average errors of the readings. If you have to keep...

I hope I didn't confuse you here. SilverFx is an editing tool that helps you get to your "perfect" B&W image and that's it - end of story. How you transfer that image to paper is the business of the printing process, and different processes/workflows will give you different results. We're...

I was replying to 3dogs. He doesn't need QTR; you probably do.

If you're talking about your 3880 then you should be able to get great B&W without any trouble. For best results use the Advanced B&W mode. In my experience this is as good as QTR, although it does still use a bit of yellow ink which QTR doesn't use at all. For the icing on the cake you can make...