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Am I correct you've printed ABS filament quite a lot? Have you printed anything that really needed ABS rather than PLA?

This is why I've only printed PLA in my study. The garage is the only place I planned to print ABS, but it's a bit of a walk, and I can't see what's happening from my study. However, today I've installed a raspberry pi based server so I can control my printer from a browser with Octoprint, and...

If the heat plate was burned out, wouldn't it never heat up? You may be right, but I just has a quick look at a thermistor datasheet. If I read it correctly, it appeared to very its resistance based on the temperature sensed, not simply switch on or off. If that's so, it's not clear to me what...

I second this:eek:

I agree with @stratman. If you ask your heat bed to work under those conditions 24/7 for some months, I'm not surprised if it decides it's had enough.:hit But the motherboard would be the last thing I'd try. I'd be concerned that if you simply replace the motherboard, it may not fix the...

Yes, I use SCAD too, for basic shapes also. I find it easier than most of the others, though it's limited if you want to create the pretty pictures some of the others will do. But I don't need to do anything too complicated. I can't imagine why I would want to print one of these SCAD linear_extrudes

Some of us only have one printer, so we can't organise printer races. Which of yours wins?:D

The way you use this is very convenient, but for the moment I'll stick with manual levelling. I'm just not sure I want to have the z-axis continually moving up and down by micro amounts while I'm printing. At least not when it's easy enough for me to manually level. Thanks for the information

Did you design this yourself? What design tool do you use?

Do you mean you don't need to use hair spray on it?

That seems a good way to operate. Do you still have to occasionally re-level the bed itself? I'm assuming that as the bed gradually gets physically out of alignment, the sensor will be moving the z axis up and down as it moves across the bed. Is this how it works, or have I misunderstood?

It's where the firmware sees the temperature of the hot end has dropped so keeps heating it up, but what has actually happened is the thermistor has stopped working. So your house burns down:eek: The current version of Marlin has a more sophisticated check and shuts down the printer if it...

Yes, it confirms my thoughts. Maybe some beds are harder to level than mine, but for me, it's really not difficult. I usually remember to check, but I'm not running my printer continually like you. I may change the firmware to Marlin at some point though. It's got additional safety features...

Does anyone have auto bed levelling? I'm considering adding it to my Anet A8, but I'm not sure whether it's really worth the effort. It doesn't take me long to manually level before each print. Am I correct I'll still need to manually level the bed occasionally with auto bed levelling? To do...

I've had similar problems when modifying things on the printer. Eventually I discover one of the connectors has got dislodged. It's particularly confusing if the connector is still connected, but only just, because then I get an intermittent problem. Now if I something happens I can't explain...

I had my dental implant surgery on Monday. The dentist used the 3D printed mould I described above. It worked extremely well - the mould, which fitted exactly over my existing teeth, had 2 channels which showed him exactly where to drill and how deep. In fact the surgeon had no choice, he could...

My Chinese Anet A8 shipped from a European warehouse, so I assumed VAT had been paid on entry to the EU, but I subsequently discovered the price was the same if it shipped direct from China. I don't understand

There's no chance the Z-axis limit switch was damaged or moved when you were working on the other axes?

I've had no problems with 3mm glass and hairspray. I rarely have to change the hairspray. But I'm only printing PLA. I want to add auto bed levelling and the inductive sensor I plan to use only just manages to detect the bed through 3mm glass. So I'm thinking of trying 2mm glass. I think glass...

This mentions a z-axis coupler between the rod and the motor, to reduce stress on the motor. My VERY cheap Anet A8 doesn't have this feature. Do your (relatively) expensive models have it?