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But this is the 'forum rants' thread, isn't ? :p

I only use it because of the hack that allows to bypass the large margins settings for fine-art/matte papers on my Canon Pro-10s. Yes, Qimage's user interface is nothing to write home about, to put it mildly, and no way it can replace Photoshop.

Of course, you get eight or ten alkalines for the price of one silver oxide. but if changing the battery is tricky you don't want to do it often. This is the case with one of my wristwatches. Removing the bottom lid to change the battery is a PITA. How long will work a LR41 battery on a resetter...

Be aware also that if you're using Qimage, this software has the annoying 'feature' of disabling 'advanced printing capabilities' on the printer used by the program. So, every time you close Qimage, you have to go to control panel -> devices and printers, right click on the printer icon, select...

I suppose you're aware that batteries whose ref. starts with 'A' or 'L' are alkaline while those starting with 'S' are silver oxide. Both types have a similar initial voltage, so they would be totally interchangeable .. but not quite. Under load, the electrical tension of alkaline batteries...

Yes, tell us ... we want to know what type of batteries did you use .. :hide

If we had known twenty years ago what Canon had in mind for the future, when the first generation of Pixmas was released, instead of purchasing a single Pixma IP4000/5000, we’d got three or four printers along with a dozen of spare printheads. No more worries about resetting chips/waste ink pad...

If you can buy a new printer for not much more than a set of OEM carts, probably Canon doesn't makes any profit, but they won't loose much money either. Meaning : cheap build = low duty and low reliability on a mid term basis. These entry models are targeted at the casual user who makes a few...

Feldrod, by what you say, the trouble is with the black nozzles.. or it's also with the CMY colors ?. It would help us to diagnose the problem if you posted here a nozzle test, preferably a good scan of the page, not a photo. If you want my opinion, your present MB5150 seems to be the best...

I'm running a version of Win-10 from 2019 and I have no wish of upgrading (?) to Win-11. If nothing prevents it, that WIn10-1903 will be my last O.S, Probably there's still a lot of people using without issues Win-Vista, Win-7 or even Win-XP.

Considering that the printheads for the Pro-10 and the Maxify MB5150 are also used in newer printers. they will be available still for a number of years. Probably my printers will outlive me. :rolleyes:

I've been refilling for twenty years or so. Mostly Canon but also Epson in the very beginning. Nowadays I own a Canon Pro-10s and a Maxify MB5150, both refilled with third party ink or OEM ink from bigger cartridges. I reckon that when there're no more available printheads for these two...

I made no rigorous tests, but my own experience tells me that photos printed two or three years ago with third party pigment ink (Octoinkjet) and my Pro10 show no evident signs of fading, even if they're hanged on a wall unprotected and exposed to air/light, This is not the case at all with...

@The Hat, it seems that your fading test with GI.-56 inks (and the crappy Lidl paper..;)) made you change your mind about using OEM on the Maxify. I don’t share you opinion in this matter. My reasons : First, I’ve been using cheap black pigment ink on my Canon Pixmas for many years without...

It took around 20 hours printing each of the two parts. The text was only a few mm. thick but having to print the base of the models with a 0.25mm nozzle and 0.1mm layer height is what made it so long. Anyway, printing the parts was nothing compared to the huge amount of time I spent on...

Apart from 0.4mm. nozzles I have 0.25 and 0.6 sizes but the 0.6 are still new and unused, while the 0.25 was employed only for a single project that required small detailed text. Then I reverted to 0.4. It's my sweet spot for 3D printing.

What about the Flexible filament that you purchased time ago .. I gather that you haven't found practical uses for it ?

If you want my opinion, given the case try ASA instead of ABS. Similar mechanical and thermal properties but better resistance to UV and fumes aren't so smelly. I've been printing it lately and I hadn't the slightest problem with warping, even on relatively large parts. The only real difficulty...

Yes, I realized that it was a joke ( but all the same you were exagerating, :p ). We're exposed to every kind of not-so-healthy fumes and particles from many products used in household washing, cleaning, gardening and so on. Not to speak of people who are compulsive smokers. If your printers...

Don't exagerate. Or do you think that everybody printing PETG, FLEX, PP and other filaments needs a defribillator ?. I'd be on intensive care by now, because I've been printing ASA for a few weeks. Fumes from those filament aren't much more harmful than PLA. If the printer stays inside an...